hard start
joedoer
01-08-2008, 01:10 PM
hope i can get some help here.
i have a 97 voyager 3.3 l that when i try to start on cold start up
it takes a while.heres what happens.
cranks good,won't start,try again same thing ,on third try,it will start and run fine the rest of the day.i noticed it happens mainly when its damp out.
had a neighbor mechanic type person check when it happens,he said there isn't any spark problem,arcing at the wires or module or anything.before first start up he noted no fuel at the rail port..pushed in with a pcoket screw driver.
i took to a local garage for an opinion,he said fuel pressure was at 55 which was normal..wanted to sell me a tune up..i think i might need a fuel pump or a relay or something...any ideas??/:banghead:
i have a 97 voyager 3.3 l that when i try to start on cold start up
it takes a while.heres what happens.
cranks good,won't start,try again same thing ,on third try,it will start and run fine the rest of the day.i noticed it happens mainly when its damp out.
had a neighbor mechanic type person check when it happens,he said there isn't any spark problem,arcing at the wires or module or anything.before first start up he noted no fuel at the rail port..pushed in with a pcoket screw driver.
i took to a local garage for an opinion,he said fuel pressure was at 55 which was normal..wanted to sell me a tune up..i think i might need a fuel pump or a relay or something...any ideas??/:banghead:
RIP
01-08-2008, 01:48 PM
Don't discount it. It really could be as simple as a "tune up". Basics first. How old are the spark plugs? As they wear the gap setting will increase and create a weak or no spark. Corroded or loose plug wire connections at the plug or coil will create added resistance and a weak or no spark. Inspect or replace. Your "only when it's damp out" condition points to all of this.
When your buddy checked for fuel at the rail did he turn the key to "on" first to turn on the pump and create pressure. Pressure will slowly bleed off as the van sits. If it sat long enough there will be no pressure at the rail.
FYI - as I understand it when you turn the ignition switch to on the fuel pump turns on for a few seconds. If the PCM doesn't see a crank position sensor signal (because you haven't advanced the key to start) , it will turn off the pump. When you advance the key to start, the pressure is there from the initial pressure created when you turned the key to "on" then when the car starts, the PCM sees the good CPS signal and leaves the fuel pump on. I always start the engine and let it run a bit before I check for fuel at the test port just to CYA.
When your buddy checked for fuel at the rail did he turn the key to "on" first to turn on the pump and create pressure. Pressure will slowly bleed off as the van sits. If it sat long enough there will be no pressure at the rail.
FYI - as I understand it when you turn the ignition switch to on the fuel pump turns on for a few seconds. If the PCM doesn't see a crank position sensor signal (because you haven't advanced the key to start) , it will turn off the pump. When you advance the key to start, the pressure is there from the initial pressure created when you turned the key to "on" then when the car starts, the PCM sees the good CPS signal and leaves the fuel pump on. I always start the engine and let it run a bit before I check for fuel at the test port just to CYA.
joedoer
01-09-2008, 11:12 AM
hey thanks for getting back tome ,rip.
don't really know how old the plugs are,so i will replace them along with the wires.
my expierence with older cars,i.e. distributor type,you could see/feel the spark at the wires when they shorted when damp out.
vehicle usually sits overnigth when it happens.no buddy didn't key on first before checking fuel at rail.
also note, when trying to start,when it doesn't,it will make a cough/backfire sound thru the air cleaner/throttle body.
what you say makes sense.i'll try a tune up.
should i be looking at replacing the coil pack/module also?
thanks for your help
joe d.:banghead:
don't really know how old the plugs are,so i will replace them along with the wires.
my expierence with older cars,i.e. distributor type,you could see/feel the spark at the wires when they shorted when damp out.
vehicle usually sits overnigth when it happens.no buddy didn't key on first before checking fuel at rail.
also note, when trying to start,when it doesn't,it will make a cough/backfire sound thru the air cleaner/throttle body.
what you say makes sense.i'll try a tune up.
should i be looking at replacing the coil pack/module also?
thanks for your help
joe d.:banghead:
RIP
01-09-2008, 04:15 PM
I wouldn't. At least not yet. I like to try one thing at a time. Keeps you from wasting dollars on parts that didn't need to be changed.
joedoer
01-10-2008, 02:37 PM
ok thanks for the quick responses and your knowledge.
i 'll tune it this weekend if the money holds out long enough...lol...
i post back results.....
thanks again...joe d.
i 'll tune it this weekend if the money holds out long enough...lol...
i post back results.....
thanks again...joe d.
joedoer
02-05-2008, 03:37 PM
Hey Rip
Just wanted to post an update..
Finally got around to changing the spark plugs and wires...
Both were original...wires looked ok,no corrosion or anything...
Plugs were badly worn..checked the gap ..3 out of 6 were over .090
2 were at .060 1 was like .080..recommended gap is .050.........
Anyway,its been 2 days now and wet/damp/snowy /rainy/foggy/crappy out and so far it starts right up....
Thanks for the help...I think it's fixed...:wink:
Joe d.
Just wanted to post an update..
Finally got around to changing the spark plugs and wires...
Both were original...wires looked ok,no corrosion or anything...
Plugs were badly worn..checked the gap ..3 out of 6 were over .090
2 were at .060 1 was like .080..recommended gap is .050.........
Anyway,its been 2 days now and wet/damp/snowy /rainy/foggy/crappy out and so far it starts right up....
Thanks for the help...I think it's fixed...:wink:
Joe d.
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