Cleaning engine block
SilvrEclipse
01-07-2008, 05:55 PM
I finally went and pick up a motor that I can start to build for my car. The motor is out of a running car with approx. 92k on it. The inside of the motor is clean, but the outside has some rust on it. After I dissassemble the motor I want to clean all the rust off then have it bored and then paint it.
What can I use to clean all the rust off? I know I could wire brush some parts but that wont get everything. Sandblasting would work but sounds dangerous. I can get the block hot tanked but will that clean all the rust off?
Here are some pics.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z173/SilvrEclipse/0106081630a.jpg?t=1199746035
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z173/SilvrEclipse/0106081631a.jpg?t=1199746501
What can I use to clean all the rust off? I know I could wire brush some parts but that wont get everything. Sandblasting would work but sounds dangerous. I can get the block hot tanked but will that clean all the rust off?
Here are some pics.
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z173/SilvrEclipse/0106081630a.jpg?t=1199746035
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z173/SilvrEclipse/0106081631a.jpg?t=1199746501
0-60IN2
01-07-2008, 06:17 PM
WHy does my oil filter go horizontially? not vertically liek that one? lol
SilvrEclipse
01-07-2008, 06:20 PM
I dont know, do you have a 420a??
0-60IN2
01-07-2008, 06:21 PM
Is that what that is.....Lol Oh my i see now, no I have a 4G63t sorry man
david-b
01-07-2008, 06:49 PM
Damn super sexy 420a's. God I love them dear. I want one. I think wire brush would be best bet compared to taking it in. Those DIY car washes have wheel/engine cleaner (usually bright green) that works awesome for cleaning. Best I can find. I go there and fill up gallons of that shit. I would do that, then sit there and scrub the shit out of it.
gthompson97
01-07-2008, 07:13 PM
There's no way to get rid of ALL the rust unless you want to start over with absolutely everything. If so, you'll have to have the block blasted, then bored and honed, new frost plugs and have every oil/coolant passage perfectly clean and free of sand. There's really no need for the block to be perfectly rust free, if the rust comes off, then use a wire brush for the big stuff and a wire brush attachment to a grinder. For the stuff that doesn't come off with the grinder, I don't think you'll have any problems with it down the road if the grinder won't get it off. And the paint will still stick to it, just but a rust inhibitor over the top and then spray on the paint if that's what you're worried about.
I would wire brush what you can on the block itself, sandblast all the rest of the parts (brackets, cam gears, manifolds, oil pan, etc), but don't blast things like the oil pump, water pump, etc.
I would wire brush what you can on the block itself, sandblast all the rest of the parts (brackets, cam gears, manifolds, oil pan, etc), but don't blast things like the oil pump, water pump, etc.
SilvrEclipse
01-07-2008, 07:47 PM
Everything is getting replaced. Water pump, oil pump. My fidanza cam gears will be put on the head. I mainly worried about the block itself. I was planning on using a grinder wire brush and I guess I could hit the rest with sand paper for the spots I cant reach. The motor will get disassembled in a month or so and then it will be another month or two before it hits the machine shop, so I will have plenty of time to work on it.
Only the exhaust side is bad, the other side of the block doesn't have much rust on it.
Garrett - So you suggest applying a rust proof primer coating then the engine enamal? Do they make a high temp rust proof paint?
Only the exhaust side is bad, the other side of the block doesn't have much rust on it.
Garrett - So you suggest applying a rust proof primer coating then the engine enamal? Do they make a high temp rust proof paint?
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