Trunk Release Problem

Don't know what fixed sunchas problem, but I now have the EXACTE same problem. The relay is on a ckt wiht the remote, but the switch that is in the trunk is a different ckt... up to connection c200.

I have continuity from the release swtich to the ground (g302, which is pass side door sill)

the switch seems to function when I check it unhooked

the relay seems to work (though i have not yet tried the ohm test)

the release solenoid opens when I hook it up straight to 12v

fuse 27 gets 12v and b/u lights work

help!

Due to the age of the thread posted in I moved your post to a new thread.

How do you know the relay is good? The relay coil can be good and energize but the contacts that pass the 12 volts to the release solenoid could be bad. Therefore the relay may be your problem.

The trunk release and backup lights share the same 12 volts so that is good at least to the relay contact input.

Due to the age of the thread posted in I moved your post to a new thread.

How do you know the relay is good? The relay coil can be good and energize but the contacts that pass the 12 volts to the release solenoid could be bad. Therefore the relay may be your problem.

The trunk release and backup lights share the same 12 volts so that is good at least to the relay contact input.

relay is passing more like 10v as measured on my cheapo meter... but I also tried another relay - still no open the trunk

the release switch in the glovebox isn't getting any voltage

i tried jumping a known 12v (glove box light) to the blk/w wire and the trunk popped... so the solenoid does work

could it be the Park/Nuetral/Reverse switch? or maybe a corroded connection in the underhood wiring junction block that is under the fuses?
not sure how best to remove or check either of those just yet...
if it were the PNR switch, shouldn't the relay receive ZERO voltage?

I see the year in your profile the year but what model Grand Prix is this. Just to be sure do you have the remote keyless entry with the trunk release button?

From the looks of it and from what I see in the GM FSM you have some sort of wiring problem between the trunk release switch and engine compartment fuse box assembly. I don't believe it is the transmission range switch, aka park/neutral switch but the shifter must be in park or neutral for the trunk release to work. Since you have a meter try ohming out the wiring point to point per the wiring diagram.

I'm stoopyd. Bad wire.
A few years ago I had to put in a new battery... long story short, it was late at night and I just wanted to get the car running for my wife... when I put the battery in, the battery trapped the wiring harness between it an the forward body support- which eventually smashed up the wire that comes back from the Park switch- on top of that, all that contact caused a lot of corrosion in that area both on the wiring harness and the body support.