stalling at low rpm

1994 v6 taurus. vehicle will shut off when coming 2 a light or slowing down for turn. doesn't matter how hot engine is - can come right off of 20min ride on freeway will still stall out when getting off exits or turning n2 parking spot. car shuts down and all lights come on. have to restart vehicle several times

You might have an EGR valve that is not closing at no throttle. Which V6 does your Taurus have?

-Rod

You might have an EGR valve that is not closing at no throttle. Which V6 does your Taurus have?

-Rod
3.0l v-6

:1zhelp: :1zhelp: 2001 ford taurus 3.0l v-6 keeps stalling out at low r.p.m. just started today and i must fix soon to pick up family...any ideas?

Are there any other symptoms such as difficulty starting? Does it idle in park fine? How old is the battery?

-Rod

I think I have a same problem. When my car is in P, I don't ear any problem, but, when i'm put in Drive or R the rpm go back and forwerd and sometime the engine stop.
Also.... u have squematic for the ERG valve? Sorry it is hard for you undestand my english

I think I have a same problem. When my car is in P, I don't ear any problem, but, when i'm put in Drive or R the rpm go back and forwerd and sometime the engine stop.
Also.... u have squematic for the ERG valve? Sorry it is hard for you undestand my english

Your situation sounds more like a faulty Idle Air Control (IAC) valve, or possibly carbon build up on the back side of the throttle plate or the throttle body. I'd suggest you first clean throttle plate and throttle body with STP Throttle Body Cleaner. There are other brands, but the STP seems to cut through the build-up better than other products I've tried. While you're at the store picking up the throttle body cleaner, I'd suggest you also pick up a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. Add that to your fuel tank. And don't forget a can of Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor cleaner to clean the MAF. You may also need the security Torx bit to get the MAF loose from the air filter housing. Also check all the intake air tubing lines as well as the vacuum lines. If none of these have an effect, then consider the IAC. A quick test for the IAC would be to turn on the A/C or defroster and see if that makes the condition worse or causes a stall. If so, then the IAC is probably not doing its job.

-Rod

I don't know... but yesterday i'm put more attention when my car is in P and the rpm meter go up and down too. I'm check the battery conection I don't find any problem..... I put a bottle or clean injector 2 week before, the defroster work good but the air don't come all time hot, sometime take like 10 minutos in get hot.

Hi,
searched the forum threads and found that this is closest to my problem. 98 SE Duratec w 143,000 miles. Had code for low flow egr. After doing alot of reading, here and elsewhere, I decided to replace the DPFE. It already had the plastic one on it come to find out. It may have been replaced a couple of years ago when I had $1100 worth of work on it. So after I replaced the DPFE the car would run really rough on idle. I also heard what sounds like a lot of air being sucked. Looked around and can not find exactly where it is coming from. Since it has to do with idle and air, I decided to replace the idle air control and take off the egr and clean that out (wasn't too too bad). Start the car up, runs a little better, but still air noise and rough idle, runs fine on highway. So I start searching for the air noise again. While I had the mass air tube off and the connections to it, I started the engine. Idles pretty good, but naturally have lots of air noise (expected that). Now I reinstall Mass air and all the connections, idles rough again. Now I disconnect the plug that connects to the Mass Air and the car immediately stalls. Can the Mass Air be the problem all along???? Is it supposed to stall when unplugged, then why would it run without it all together? I really don't want to spend $100+ on the Mass Air if that is not the problem......This is driving me NUTS!!! Any help would be appreciated, Thanks Steve

I had simular problems on my 2001 Vulcan engine and did the normal checks and it ended up being a simple vacuum hose. The engine ran horrible, like it had a cracked head but I knew it didn't so while checking the EGR valve I noticed the medium sized vaccum hose that goes to the back of the intake manifold was really loose. The car would stall if the hose was removed, run bad when loose and as soon as I put a clamp on it it ran perfect. The hose originally had no clamp to hold it on and the hose streched and become loose over the years. May be worth a look.

TaurusGLenn

I agree. The MAF shouldn't be creating the sound of an air leak unless it is not properly connected to the intake air tubes. It sounds like you have unmetered air entering the intake, ie: a vacuum leak.

-Rod