98 TAHOE does not start....

Okay, so it's 28 degrees here in PA. My Tahoe decided not to start this AM. Wouldn't even crank over. So I changed the battery. Nothing. Cranks great, but will not fire off. I drove it yesterday with no problem. I got a full tank of gas, and for some reason, I'm suspect to a fuel pump. I tried a relay, no go, and I'm hesistant to start draining. Does anyone have any suggestion before I start draining the tank, (oh did I mention it is FULL?) and start on the pump?

Oh and if you think I'm on the right track, you got any advice as to how to make this sub siberean adventure any easier? Where to get the easiest to install pump, for the best price, tip on draining, tips on tank dropping, etc.... thought I would ask.

First, when you turn the key on do you hear the pump run for about two seconds before you start cranking? If not, you're on the right track. Is the pump original?

First, when you turn the key on do you hear the pump run for about two seconds before you start cranking? If not, you're on the right track. Is the pump original?

I imagine the pump is original. I don't hear this one like I heard my other one, (my other 98) this one was always "quiet" but it is super quiet now. I was thinking I might be missing a master reset or something dumb. I got the FSM's for 98 Chevy trucks C & K series, all 4 of them, but it is difficult to use, without some of the factory tools.

Check the fuel pressure first, going by sound on a $500 and all day job may not be the best idea. A very quick test is to probe the "to pump" side of the relay with a test light. If you have no light, the pump or wiring is bad. If the light comes on, it could still be bad. If it's partially corroded it may flow enough current for the light, but not the pump.

Also if you can have someone turn the key on for you try banging against the bottom of the tank to see if the vibration gets the pump running again. You should be able to hear it for the two second pre start. Many posts here, and my own experience, indicate that a failed pump will sometimes come to life very briefly if it is vibrated or somehow shaken to get it going again. When mine failed I found that if I kicked the bottom of the tank the pump ran long enough to get me home, barely, but once in the garage, that was all she wrote. Again the posts here strongly urge using the GM pump. I found mine at Rock Auto for about $225 or so as a complete pump/sender assy. I too had a nearly full tank. That was the most challenging part of the job, getting the fuel out...safely.

:iagree:

ALWAYS use a GM fuel pump... this job is not one you want to do twice. You might get by with a brand-X part, but I wouldn't risk it.

What do you mean getting it out safely? It's easy... just cut a hole...:eek7:

Sorry, I can't offer any on-the-ground advice... I have a hoist at work, a tall 4.5-6" jack, up to 4 guys to help lift it down, and a 40 gallon transfer pump/tank.

If you get lucky and can get it to start by banging on the tank, just let it idle through to whole tank, or if it flows enough, use a pressure tester adapter to transfer part of it to another vehicle. Usually, pounding on the tank will get it to go once or twice, so don't shut it off if you do get it going.

What's really strange, is I got home tonight, working second shift, My interior light was on. So I got in, tried to get the light to go off, and couldn't. So I was tired, I tried to pull the bulb out, and don't you know it, I shattered the little bugger.

Anyway, I was feeling lucky, so I put the key in, gave it a turn, and it started right up. I still think I got a faulty pump, but the temp was a bit warmer, and I'm starting to wonder if I don't have some bad gas (no pun intended...) maybe some water? I had this happen twice before, where it was hard to start, and both times it was real cold. Maybe some gas line anti freeze?

I still think it is time, 100K miles, and I hate to risk driving this thing around to run th gas out. It's siphon time, and I'll try to save as much gas as I can.

Any other opinions?

Oh, I tried to get the siphon going, I can't get into the tank, is there a hard bend somewhere, and how much hose should I run? It seems I got almost 5 foot in there, and yet to get gas from the tank? I got ten foot, and I'm gonna try that tomorrow. I think I got the hose stuck somewhere, and ultimately, I might just disconnect the inlet, at the tank, and go in that route.

I didn't think this would be the hardest part. geez!

Thank you all for the advice.

Does anyone know the difference between the two separate fuel pumps for the 98 Tahoe 4 doors?

MU 149
INCL SEAL)(CODE GFU 4 DOOR Without RPO ROBUST FUEL SYS SENDER(K53) ^ LOW LUBRICITY FUEL SYS SENDER(K55) ^ FUEL PUMP RFI FILTER(8J9)

MU 150
With RPO FUEL PUMP RFI FILTER(8J9) INCL SEAL)(CODE GFV 4 DOOR

Anyone tell me what the difference may be? Or how I might be able to tell which one I need?

Just trying to do it right!

Only way to tell for sure is to call dealer parts department with the VIN.

Carquest did switch to Delphi and Bosch for their fuel pump supplier whom Delphi makes GM's fuel pumps and it says on the box.The Delphi is the better one and Carquest did ditch Airtex,Carquest had a lot of problems with their fuel pumps when Airtex was their supplier and I know one owner of one owner of a Carquest parts store that went thorgh this,a lot of returned fuel pumps.I know he has none that have been returned since Carquest switched to Delphi.