Electrical Problem

My 88 S-10 (4.3 V6) Turned Off While Idling In The Driveway Like I Turned The Key Off, No Spark Going To Cap From Ignition Coil. Any Suggestions As To What It Could Be.

Is the spark getting to all of the spark plugs?
Has it got good fuel and fuel pressure?
MT

Good Fuel / Fuel Pressure (as Far As I Know), No Spark To Any Plugs, And No Spark From Ignition Coil To Cap. Pulled Coil Off But Could Not Figure Out How To Test

Check all fuses.
Is coil getting 12 volts on one side?
A test light may trigger coil spark.
Parts place may be able to check coil.
Is dist rotor turning?
Common problem is ign module in dist or pickup coil in dist wire broken.

PARTS STORE TOLD ME COIL WAS BAD (HAD EVIDENCE OF ARCHING ON COIL), PUT A NEW ONE ON AND STARTED UP FINE, TODAY I GOT THE TIMING CHECKED (IT WAS 15d OFF) AND IT DROVE FINE, AFTER SITTING FOR 20 MIN IT WOULDN'T START (TURNED OVER BUT WOULDN'T CATCH) I WAS LATE FOR WORK SO MY WIFE TRIED ABOUT AN HOUR LATER AND IT WORKED, WHEN I GOT HOME IT STARTED FINE ALSO. WHAT WOULD HAVE CAUSED THIS, ALSO WHY WOULD THE COIL HAVE BEEN ARCHING?

Did the coil actually test bad?

A lot of them will have arching on the coil case.
Not really a sign of bad coil.

If no start it is back to the drawing board.
When no start check for lose of spark or fuel.
If good spark check for lose of fuel/fuel pressure.
Will it start with a shot of carb cleaner when the no start happens?
Let us know how it goes.
MT

NO PROBLEMS SINCE THEN, IT WAS SITTING FOR ABOUT 2 MONTHS BECAUSE OF THESE PROBLEMS (DIST. / SPARK) AND NO TIME TO WORK ON IT. ITS BEEN RUNNING BETTER TODAY THAN THE DAY BEFORE, SMOOTHER IDLING AND DRIVING. IF ANY MORE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS I WILL DEFINATELY BE ASKING. I AM GETTING A DIAGNOSTIC DONE ON IT SOON, AND WILL KEEP POSTED.:grinyes:

OTHER POSSIBLE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS BUT KIND OF COSMETIC:
1. WINDSHIELD WIPERS WORK WHEN I TURN ON TURN SIGNAL OR BUMP STERRING COLUMN, SOMETIMES JUST FOM A BUMP IN THE ROAD THEY WILL ALSO WORK.:screwy:
2. CRUISE CONTROL ONLY WORKED WHEN WIPERS WERE TURNED ON, NOW DON'T WORK AT ALL.:screwy:
3. POWER WINDOWS ONLY WORK WHEN DRIVER SIDE DOOR IS SHUT.:screwy:
4. POWER LOCK MECHINISM ON DRIVERS SIDE DOES NOT OPERATE PASSENGER, BUT PASS. OPERATES BOTH.:screwy:

Truck Worked Good For About A Week, Yesterday (1/7) Engine Cut Off After Going Over Speed Bump, But Started Back Up. Later Lost All Rpms While Driving Back To Work And Engine Cut Off, But Started Back Up And Got Me To Work. After Work Would Not Start. Engine Cranks But Won't Catch. Checked For Spark And Had None Anywhere, Pulled Cap Off, Rotor Spinning, While Cap Was Off Noticed Plastic Inside Cap And On Top Of Rotor Looked Torn Up. Made Sure That Cap Was Tight But Still No Spark. Could The Ignition Module Be Cause, Also What Is A Knock Sensor, And If I Have A Crank Sensor (4.3 V6) Where Is That Located.

On a 88 almost everything to trigger ign and coil is in dist.
Check ign switch and wiring and fuses.
Check dist ign pickup in dist and pickup coil in bottom of dist.

On a 88 almost everything to trigger ign and coil is in dist.
Check ign switch and wiring and fuses.
Check dist ign pickup in dist and pickup coil in bottom of dist.

WHEN I HAD DIST OUT ABOUT A MONTH AGO I DIDN'T SEE ANYTHING ON THE BOTTOM DO I HAVE TO PUL THE DIST AGAIN

WHEN I HAD DIST OUT ABOUT A MONTH AGO I DIDN'T SEE ANYTHING ON THE BOTTOM DO I HAVE TO PUL THE DIST AGAIN

The pickup coil is in the bottom of dist.
Dist has to come out and apart to replace it.
Bad about breaking the lead in wires with a vacume advance type dist.
With cap off and module unpluged wiggle wires to pickup coil and ohm it out.
And if the ign coil in dist cap make sure you installed the ground stap on it.

The dist modjual can be replaced by pulling the dist cap and rotor.
Check it first.
Good Luck

I Checked The Module And It Seems To Be Bad If I'm Reading The Multimeter Right, The Pickup Coil Checked Out Okay. If The Module Is Bad And I Replace It Should I Get A Diagnostic And If So What Is A Diagnostic And What Does The Garage Do To Do A Diagnostic

Somne parts places can test the module for you after it is off.
The dist module is just plug and play.
If it is bad replace it.

But a good idea to check base timing and for codes after you get it running.
Good Luck
MT

How Do You Check Base Timing? Do You Need A Timing Light

Yes.
Check the under hood sticker for insturctions and specs on base timing.
MT

I Noticed That There Seem To Be 2 Timing Marks On The Wheel Thingy (sorry Can't Rememer What Its Called). How Do I Know/tell Which One Is The Timing Mark. Ps. They Are Identical In Depth Size And Color

I Noticed That There Seem To Be 2 Timing Marks On The Wheel Thingy (sorry Can't Rememer What Its Called). How Do I Know/tell Which One Is The Timing Mark. Ps. They Are Identical In Depth Size And Color

Somne parts places can test the module for you after it is off.
The dist module is just plug and play.
If it is bad replace it.

But a good idea to check base timing and for codes after you get it running.
Good Luck
MT

I GOT THE TIMING FIXED AFTER FIXING THE DIST, SHOULD I STILL GET IT CHECKED AFTER REPLACING THE MODULE?

I GOT THE TIMING FIXED AFTER FIXING THE DIST, SHOULD I STILL GET IT CHECKED AFTER REPLACING THE MODULE?

Changing the module does not change the timing.
Good luck
MT

Replaced The Module Still Won't "catch", Turns Over Just Fine, Definite Fuel / Air, Anything Else I Can Check Before Pulling The Dist For The Ign Coil

Replaced The Module Still Won't "catch", Turns Over Just Fine, Definite Fuel / Air, Anything Else I Can Check Before Pulling The Dist For The Ign Coil

Refrech our memory.
Is it still no spark from coil?
MT

Refrech our memory.
Is it still no spark from coil?
MT

as far as i can tell no

Make sure ign switch is putting 12 volts to dist.
Make sure the ign coil and coil wire is good.
Make sure ign module is good.
Make sure the dist is turning when the engine is cranking.
If so replace the dist pickup coil.
MT

i dont know if uve resolved this problem but here goes. Ignition modules are subjected to a lot of heat and age or poor install will cause the engine to stall & restart or miss or even quit completely. Screws that attatch module are of unique length and thread so dont loose them and that is how the module is grounded. Use correct heat sink grease and insure module screws are tight. Replacement parts are available with lifetime quarentee - ull never buy another. Most parts stores will test them. I have a Bravada and it is absolutly the toughest distributor to get at and service.

Is There Something Called A Spark Sensor On This Engine (88 S-10 Blazer 4.3 V6) And If So Where Is It Located And How Do I Test It

No spark sensors.
The dist pickup module and dist pickup coil triggers the coil to get spark.
MT

Okay Back To Square One.....

Vehicle Description Is 88 S-10 Blazer W/ 4.3l V-6 Tbi. Problem Started By Engine Cutting Off While Driving, Figured Out The Cap Was Loose And Had Rocked Against The Rotor Until The Inside Got Tore Up. Took Cap Off And One Screw Was Broke Off In Dist. Pulled Dist To Get Out Screw And Then Had Problem Getting Back In. Once Got Fixed, Mechanic Set Timing And It Worked For About A Week, Then Started Cutting Off Again, And Finally Wouldn't Start. Replaced Cap, Rotor, Ign Coil, Ign Module And Finally Pickup Coil. Stil Will Not Start, Turns Over But Won't Catch. Fuel Pressure Is Good. And Number One Plug Is Getting Spark.
There Is Some Kind Of Filter Right Next To The Ign Coil And Is Plugged Into The Coil, What Is This?

If it is getting good spark and has good fuel pressure check for injector pulse.
And do a tap /twist test on the computer.
Not saying the computer is the problem but a lot of these years had a shorted board in the computers .
Drop the computer and let it hang down where you can get to it.
When it acts up or no start tap and or twist the computer.
If it acts up on a tap/twist test there is the problem.

The little thing on the coil may be a radio condenser.

How Do You Test For Injector Pulse, Where Exactly Is The Computer Located, And What Does The Radio Condensor Do?

Ther PCM is in cab under right side of dash.
To check for injector pulse you need a injector testing noid light.
Hook it to the injector driver wire and see if it flashes the light when cranking.
The raido condenser filters the electrical noise out.
Good Luck
MT

:shakehead I JUST CHECKED MY PLUG WIRES AND SINCE THE LAST TIME I TOOK OUT THE DIST TO REPLACE THE PICKUP COIL, I PUT THE WIRES BACK ON THE CAP IN THE WRONG PLACES. ONCE I FIXED THE WIRES IN THE CORRECT FIRING ORDER IT STARTED RIGHT UP, NOW I JUST NEED TO SET TIMING. I CAN'T BELIVE THAT IT WAS SOMETHING THAT EASY..........

You need to find and unplug the base timing wire .
Single Tan wire with a black stripe.
On yours it will be near dist or on fire wall to left of fuel pump relay and fuse under the black plastic cover taped to the wiring harness.
MT

The Wire I Found Under The Passenger Dash Near The Ecm. When I Set The Timing There Were 3 Teeth To Set The Timing Mark To: Looking From Left (pass) To Right (driver), Which Mark Is Top Dead Center Or "0". I Used The Farthest Left, And It Seems To Be Running Good, But I Just Want To Make Sure.

Clean the marker off real good.
Sand and scrape it off.
There should be a 0 and a 5 and 10 or something like that there.
The 0 may have a little deeper notch.

The Wire I Found Under The Passenger Dash Near The Ecm. When I Set The Timing There Were 3 Teeth To Set The Timing Mark To: Looking From Left (pass) To Right (driver), Which Mark Is Top Dead Center Or "0". I Used The Farthest Left, And It Seems To Be Running Good, But I Just Want To Make Sure.
Here is a pic of the timimg marks.
Click to enlarge.
http://i114.imagethrust.com/t/890326/timingmark43vortec.jpg (http://i114.imagethrust.com/images/3JC6/view-image/timing-mark-4-3-vortec.html)