Starting problems on 84 Chevy 305

Hey Guys, hopefully, I can get some technical help on this question. I have a 84 Chevy 4x4 pickup with a 305. It has an Edelbrock (#1406) 600 Carb (I think) with an electric choke (that I feel like the spring is broke in, and I’ve opened it wide up to get it to breathing some air. I have problems starting the truck in the mornings or after its sat for a couple of days. I pump the pedal 2 times, and turn the key, It will start, and stall. I go through this process a number of times before I can catch it running, and give it a little tap of the gas pedal to keep it running. Sometimes, I can give it a tap of the gas, and it will kind of shimmy and bog itself down. Then, after I finally get it running, I have to keep my foot on the pedal till it warms up for it to stay running in order to put it in gear. Sometimes, after I get it running, and pull out the driveway, I give it gas and, it will hesitate, and then pick up speed. I’ve replaced the plugs. What do you guys think is going on? Do I need to get a rebuild kit for the carb? And if so, do I need to get another electric choke to go with it? :banghead:

what makes you think the electric choke is not working in order for you to find a way to keep it in the full open position?
Your problem is with the choke. expecially with a Ebrock. holley is a close second.
repair the electric choke and make sure it is adjusted right.
I have always found that adjusting the choke on the coldest morning is the best for setting the choke

Well, I think the choke is the problem, b/c we let the truck sit, and started it one morning with the air cleaner off it. let it just sit and warm up, but the choke lever never opened (it ran about 20 minutes). So, first, we tested a good ground, just to be sure, then there were 2 wires we were unsure of which one went to the choke, plugged them both up to the choke, and let them sit for about 10 minutes each to no avail. So, we loosened the 3 screws, and turned the choke to give it a fully open position. while turning the choke, it felt like the spring inside the choke wasn't giving any resistance to the cap as we turned it open.

By the way, if it is the choke, how difficult would it be to replace, I don't imagine it would be all that bad, but not real sure, this is my first carburated engine.

Its easy to replace. Those three screws you removed; take them out, remove the cap, pull the spring out and replace it.

Also, how did you test ground? Did you test continuity back to the negative post of the battery? Often times you'll get good continuity from the choke housing to the carb, but poor continuity from the carb to the intake.

Also check the wire to the choke and make sure its getting a full 12v when the key is on.

We tested the ground by attaching the ground wire from the choke to the ground wire on top of the alternator (it connected directly to the battery, so we know it was good). You say when the engine key is on the positive side of the choke wire should be getting 12V. Is that when the key is just in the “on” position, or when then key is in the “on” position with the engine running? And, when does the 12V stop going to the choke? Only when the key is off and engine is at a stop? I was told the voltage going to the electric choke should be a very small voltage, so the choke could open slowly, otherwise, it would just pop open without letting the engine warm up.

Sounds like the ground is good.

The choke should get full battery voltage to the choke when the key is in the on position regardless of whether or not the engine is running. The original factory wiring just split off the ignition wire at the back of the engine near the distributor and sent 12v to the choke as well as the ignition. The choke always gets 12v when the key is on. Even if you drive 500 miles, it still gets 12v, otherwise the choke coil would cool down and reapply the choke after the engine is hot.

Key on, choke gets full battery voltage. Key off, choke gets no voltage. It should always be full battery voltage. If its getting anything less, it won't open fully. The choke doesn't "pop" open. It works because the electricity flowing through the coil heats it up. As it slowly heats up over 15 minutes or so it slowly opens the choke. If its not getting full voltage, it will never fully open.