Scale motorsport CF decals

I have been playing around with these. I wanted to see if you guys feel the same way about them.

1. They seem much too thin and rip very easily.

2. They're translucent and seem to really be affected by the color underneath the decal.

3. They don't adhere well

What are your thoughts? Tips and tricks? Or reccomendations for better decals.

I use those also. I think they are too expensive for such a small sheet, and the do rip easily. I paint black whatever I'm going to apply the decal to. Although silver might work also. I don't have a problem with the decal adhereing to the surface. I also use Micro sol decal solution so the decal conformes to curves. Overall I don't think they are bad decals. They look pretty realistic to me, just expensive.

I think, personally, if they rip you are being too rough with them, I use them on a lot of things with complex curves even and don't have them rip.
You need to use something like MicroSol to get them to conform and adhere properly.
I have never heard any advice on what color should be under them, but I usually have a coat of semi-gloss black under them anyway.

I love SMS carbon fibre and carbon kevlar decals and don't have a problem with using either, you just have to be patient when using them and practice good decalling technique.

Ray

SMS's decals are much easier to apply than some as long as you follow the instructions (printed on the paper/card insert) and direct directions from SMS's owner, Matthew Wells.

1. Paint the part to be decaled in a semi or gloss black
2. Create a template (using masking tape) of the size and shape of the part to be decaled.
3. Clean the part the be decaled (SMS decals will telegraph any dust, etc through its surface)
3. Use Micro-Set (a decal surface prep solvent, which is actually acetic acid or vinegar) liberally over the part to be decaled to remove oils and greases.
4. Slip the decal into warm (not hot!) water for 5-10 seconds and then remove and place, backing sheet down, onto a piece of paper towel/napkin/damp sponge.
5. Verify the decal has released from the backing paper and place the decal onto the part, sliding the decal off the backing paper while placing the decal onto the part (in other words, slide a small portion of the decal off the backing paper, anchor it to the part with your finger, and then while holding the decal in place, slide the backing paper out from under it with your other hand).
6. Gently use a to-be-used-for-decal-only soft, chisel tip paintbrush (This is just a regular soft, chisel point brush that you have labeled for use only with decals) to flatten the decal out, remove any large folds and to gently press it into and crevises
7. Liberally cover the entire deal in Micro-Sol (a decal solvent that actually melts the decal into the underlying surface) and then DO NOT PHYSICALLY TOUCH THE DECAL ANYMORE!
***Warning, during the application of Micro-Sol, the decal will begin to wrinkle and shrivel up. THIS IS NORMAL. do not be alarmed, but DO NOT physically touch the decal once it has begun to wrinkle/shrivel up or you WILL tear the decal.
8. With a LOW wattage hair dryer, gently apply heated air across the decals surface and watch as the combination of the SMS's decal components, the Micro-Sol/Set combination and the hair dryers heat causes the decal to actually become shrink wrapped onto the surface!
9. Wait ONE FULL DAY for the decal solvents to gass out. If required, reapply Micro-Sol and apply the hairdryer again.
10. Once the decal is fully dry and wrinkle free, overcoat with either semi-gloss or gloss paint.

As in all things with this "hobby" of ours, it just takes practice and technique...;-)>

hth,
Bill

p.s. Maybe this should be in the FAQ?