Is it time for CSC?....

After sanding and priming, I went on to shoot 3 coats of Dupi super white on my WRC corolla(one very lite, 2, 1 lite and 1 heavy). When I sprayed it there was a hint of orange peel, but I figured that it will level down and should be ok. Now that it has been a week, the peel is still there. Last night I sanded it w/ 2000 and used some fine tooth paste to wet polish it. The peel has gone down a little but still quite bad. Should I soak this in CSC and start all over? BTW, I usually airbrush my model, and this is the 1st time working w/ Dupi(I did warm it up for 10 min b4 shooting)

yes :)

No, it's time for polishing :)

Ales is right, your first step in polishing is the most important, it's the step where you level the paint, removing all the orange peel. From there, you start polishing out to a shiney surface. Remember polishing=leveling.:)

You've only just started scratching the surface, so to speak;)

Why perfectly good paint jobs get thrown into the vat so often due to repairable conditions is beyond me. I screw up all the time, but it's been years since I had to strip off paint. I simply polish out the imperfections, and reapply paint if necessary, and then go through the polishing procedure again.

You must use tried and true methods to polish your paint. Using just 2000 grit and toothpaste is not what I consider tried and true. Look at the FAQ's, and read articles on polishing.

Keeping it simple, your first step w/sandpaper is to level the painted surface. If you hold it up to a light and see shiny spots, you haven't finished the job. I use polishing cloths, and if the paint is at all rough I start w/2400 and do my most work with that cloth, until the surface is smooth. Then I graduate to 3600, then 4000, then I use a good-quality polish. Toothpaste? NO! Tamiya Compound or Novus #2, YES.

If you use sandpaper, you probably need to start w/1500 grit wet or dry, using it wet, and go up to 2000, also wet. If there's orange peel, start again. If it's smooth and you've gone through the paint in a few areas, reapply the paint. If it's smooth and the paint is complete, finish the polishing job. Best results come from polishing cloths and good quality liquid polish. Otherwise you'll never get the mirror-like shine everyone wants to achieve.

I'm with Ales, Veyron and Zoomzoom on this

I guess it is time to shine it up elbow grease, thanks y'all for the reply. This is my 1st car model, but I've been using the 2000+toothpaste technique for about 5yrs now, but that was on planes w/ flat clear on top. I've also used orange hand cleaner and liquid lava soap w/ good results. Don't ask why I skimp out on $5 of real hobby quality finishing products for a $25 model w/ homedepot goods, I'm just like that. I think I'll head to the shop to pickup some better sandpaper and polishing clothes. BTW, could someone recommend a brand for these supplies and perhaps a nice shop in the sacramento, CA area? tks!

Originally posted by flyingmachine
This is my 1st car model, but I've been using the 2000+toothpaste technique for about 5yrs now

humm you should have very smooth tooth :D j/k

oh man:D . don't forget about the hand cleaner and the liquid lava.

How bad is the orange peel really? Two light and one wet coat sounds like it only develops a moderate orange peel, which can be smoothed with 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper. (4000 and up will be too fine for this task, I think.)
Since 3 coats of white seems too thin for sanding and polishing, you sand the surface with 1500 grit to get rid of some orange peel, wash it thoroughly, and add another two light coats of white.

Well, it is actually quite bad, alot of shinny spots and pits when viewed under light.

Is it worse than this?
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/188993p9230026b.jpg
This is a normal look when sanding and polishing is intended. It was sanded with 1500 or 2000, I don't remember, but you still see many spots.

Now, there are two options to take.
1) if the layer is thick enough, you can continue sanding until all the spots are gone.
2) if the layer is thin, stop sanding while leaving those spots, and add two or three light coats, so that you don't reveal the primer or bare plastic.

When thoroughly sanded, it should look like this, and this is when the body is ready for polishing.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/182344p9230037b.jpg

i had the same problem.. so i sanded down, and repainted again....... and then while compounding yesterday, i rubbed to hard... down to prime :( :( :(


but oh well... i hope this helps

hirofkd, I think my paint job is at least that bad, I'll hit it w/ 1500 tonight, I have a feeling it may get down to the primers soon.