'91 Cutlass Ciera engine cuts out

The engine stalled out while on the highway, the car wouldnt start would keep turning. Had the problem 2 years ago and turned out to be a bad ground to the ICM (replaced the crank sensor, ICM, and ECM). has the same symptoms as before however ground is fine to the ICM, checked the crank sensor, it was loose and a little worn down due to friction of the veins on the harmonic balancer. replaced the crank sensor and now the car will start but will cut off abruptly after 5-20 seconds, seems like the engine isnt gettin spark correctly. sometimes it sputters and dies, but mostly it ends like someone flipped a switch and turned the engine off. not sure what to do at this point i replaced the spark plugs and cables, tested the ICM and the coils both are fine. Any suggestions?

Welcome to AF.

Check your fuel pressure ,
or you might just replace your fuel filter if it hasnt been replaced recently,
like the last 10k miles.

actually replaced the fuel filter a few months ago. might be the fuel pump was gonna try to check pressure, but can hear the pump turn on when the key is turned.

update, got the engine to run after several attempts at starting it must have been flooded. ran fine halfway around the block it stalled at a stop sign, started back up and made it back to my house and in the driveway stalled again, and again, and now wont even idle. its back to bucking and dying, it has gas, vaccuum tubes are fine from what i see, doubt its the fuel filter its only 3 months old. heard something about people having problems with their crank sensors when the engine heats up, it is winter here (36 degrees out today) so not sure if thats a factor. any suggestions would be helpful

Just get a fuel pressure gage on it, first diagnostic step for this problem. No mention of engine size but a 6cyl needs 37 psi.

Yeah Max I assume its a 4 cylinder.

neosnipes, just because you hear the pump run doesn't always mean it's up to par, especialy if its an original pump. When they go bad they work sometimes untill they get hot then they start slowing down lowing pressure.

With all the bucking and dying it very well could be your crank postion sensor- CKP or even the cam position sensor-CMP.
Usualy cold they work and run fine, as soon as it heats up, it'll die stall die die stall.

You can test the CKP & the CMP (http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0e/d2/13/0900823d800ed213/repairInfoPages.htm).

its a 3.3L v6, there is no cam sensor only a crank, going to try to dry gas it tomorrow because it was running mint after the crank sensor was replaced then started acting up after it was running for a while, this is a very frustrating problem especially given the time of year and the fact i work part time in retail(thus working alot)

Dry gas, not your problem!, as stated check the FP.

yeah going to try that once i get my hands on a fuel pressure guage, after all its christmas eve haha

got it started again it will run with a little throttle, but will not idle. replaced the fuel filter and used dry gas to possibly get any water out of the tank

UPDATE: still not running.

so far replaced:

02 sensor
mass airflow sensor
plugs/wires
coolant sensor
fuel filter
crank sensor

tested:
ICM and coil packs both tested fine
fuel pressure is fine


runs pretty good cold, once warm coughs and sputters and runs terrible. plugs are blackish and is running rich.

running out of ideas and money not sure what else the problem could be. ECM was replaced 2 years ago while having a similar issue (turned out to be poor ground on the ICM) possibly going to replace that next but its another $100 part.

any ideas? thanks

This sounds obvious but make sure the ecm fuse isnt blown, also id clean those plugs, file them and regap them. Also what about your air filter.

i didnt even think to check the fuse, filter is good i think i will double check it, the plugs are new as well

I had a the same problem with my 91 cutlass 3.3l 6cyl. It was the ECM.

I would also suggest going to the junkyards and pulling your own parts instead of buying new ones. small sensors and stuff are "free".. unless you live real far away from one but i have 4 of them 2 minutes from me but theres too much snow out right now :banghead:

UPDATE:

replaced ECC

idles smoother than it did before but still a little weak, revs up fine but struggles to return to idle. dies when put in gear and idle gets worse when the engine heats up (after about 10 mins)

im at a loss here...

Have u looked for vacuum leaks (check all hoses and tighten down intake)? What about the pcv and egr valves? EVAP canister? MAT sensor?

checked vacuum leaks, not sure on the rest, im not exactly a car expert can you clarify?

check n see if the evap canister is leakin vacuum or not hooked up right, change your pvc valve and clean out the egr it could be stuck and the mass air temp sensor could be bad. Im not familiar with the 4 banger so i cant be more specific. Id clean the throttle blades with some carb cleaner and the iac area

its a 3.3 v6, changed the pcv valve no effect, ran it for about 20 seconds tops and the spark plugs were black i dont think my car has an egr, at least i couldnt find it. im goint to take apart the throttle manifold or whatever because ive heard its a common problem on this car. ive heard the throttle valve or sensor can go bad.

oh then we have the same engine it aint got a egr, just take off the air cleaner box and spray carb cleaner on the blades. u might try changin the tps too

r u gettin any codes also? (service engine light

got code 34, and 42

MAF is new and that code comes and goes.

its usually just the 42 so i am going to try another crank sensor and possible a new ICM(even though this one is only 2 years old)

the icm could have gotten wet, i've heard of people putting them in ovens to dry them out

its been in a heated garage for a week and a half and it tested good at autozone

got code 34, and 42

MAF is new and that code comes and goes.

its usually just the 42 so i am going to try another crank sensor and possible a new ICM(even though this one is only 2 years old)

intermitant code for the MAF says to me your wires are damaged or the plugs bad.
double check the wires to anf fro the crank sensor .

I would also clean the IAC and the port into the TB. :thumbsup:

Where exactly is your coolant reservoir?
On my Olds Cutlass Supreme, I have the problem you have having. It surges, idle problem once the engine is warmed up.

Come to find out when I let the vehicle idle and fully warmed up, the coolant reservoir cap is not sealed properly and squirting small amounts of coolant into the coil packs and ICM.

What exactly is your fuel pressure reading?
Check the vacuum line going to the Fuel Pressure Regulator. If you have fuel in that vacuum line then the Fuel Pressure Regulator might be leaking a bit.