Polish, or sand final clearcoat?

I've searched, but never found a straight answer.

I've got a model that's got about 4 coats of clear on it, and it's ready to be finished.

Rather than screw it up - I'm asking for help before I get at it.

1: The model was clearcoated at 6:00pm last night, and it's 12:00 noon right now. Is it ready to be worked on?

2: If ready to be worked on - do I sand, or polish it? If sand, what grit should I start with? And work up to before polishing?

dont sand clear coat unleass you want to put an other clear cot on it

Originally posted by Vric
dont sand clear coat unleass you want to put an other clear cot on it

Now where did you hear that??? :huh:


Merc, you need to sand it the orange peel effect is bad and then polish. But before that you read the FAQ ;)

Merc, you need to sand it the orange peel effect is bad and then polish. But before that you read the FAQ

Just had to agree with Alex.....

Further to that tho....
Before you do anything, clear coat is just like paint, so give it plenty of time to dry before touching it.
Wetsand the model, regular sanding won't give you the desired finish.
Anything you need to know and can't find.....ask.....:)

Ray

Originally posted by MercCougarXR7
I've searched, but never found a straight answer.

I've got a model that's got about 4 coats of clear on it, and it's ready to be finished.

Rather than screw it up - I'm asking for help before I get at it.

1: The model was clearcoated at 6:00pm last night, and it's 12:00 noon right now. Is it ready to be worked on?

2: If ready to be worked on - do I sand, or polish it? If sand, what grit should I start with? And work up to before polishing?
a1: Wait until 6:00pm of Feb.6, meaning wait for one week, not half a day.
It might sound extreme, but just in case. And you have time to work on the interior and chassis.

a2: You have two options. If clear coat is not suffering from the orange peel, you can just polish and finish it. If it has some orange peel that you want to smooth, use 2000 grit and above sand paper to smooth it. I recommend Detail Master's finishing abrasives, starting from 4000, and all the way up to 12000 grit. After that, use polishing compound and polish the entire surface twice, and finally protect the paint with modeling wax.

If you don't have modeling compound or modeling wax, you can use automobile ones, but some of them react with hobby paint, so experiment first.
Looking forward to the finished model.

Originally posted by ales


Now where did you hear that??? :huh:


Merc, you need to sand it the orange peel effect


orange peel on clear coat ? wow I never had this problem with clear coat !

Wait wait wiat, what type of clearcoat are you using? If you're using enamel clearcoat you probably have to wait more than just a week!

Jeez - this forum moves fast, eh? This topic was on page 7 :D!

Good advice on the polishing Hirofkd - the detail master sandcloths are a part of my collection - and I've practiced with them on old models - it's nice stuff.

I'll leave the kit till the end of the week before I touch it, but sadly - the interior and chassis is done - nothing more to do on it. Oh well - there's plenty of other projects that can get my attention.

How'd I get orange peel? I don't really know. I use Testors Gloss Coat Laquer (not enamal). It didn't come out nicely - and I may have laid it on too thick. It's all about practicing to find what does, and doesn't work, eh?

I'll DEFINATELY post pics of my finished works when they're completed - this forum is invaluable for information, and I appreciate it :).

The main thing to do is wait until the final clearcoat hardens fully. For me this is usually about 1 week, maybe 2 if you're very patient.

I then use some automotive rubbing compound (as I use auto spray paints) preferably by the same manufacturer, and lightly rub into a shine. I finish with a polish of carmauba wax or car polish such as Autoglym or Mer.