Masking Nightmare - Looking for Suggestions

I've got a Fujimi Mercedes SL500 in the pipeline, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to mask the clear taillight parts so I can airbrush the clear red and orange. The problem is masking the three tiny blocks of "white" for the reverse lights.

I would actually prefer to mask and paint the faces of this part, because I think the finish will look better, the that puts the areas that need to be masked in the little channels, making it very hard to get either Tamiya tape or BMF to stay down at the edges (top and bottom) and still keep the sides lined up. :o

Any bright ideas? :D

For reference:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/92484094SL600010.jpg
The red bars are raised and the white parts are set back...

Sensible suggestion: Liquid Mask?
Stupid suggestion: Euro tail lights:p

Originally posted by freakray
Sensible suggestion: Liquid Mask?On the left is my objective as far as where I want the paint. On the right is what I'd expect from liquid masks... (and what I've got so far from Tamiya tape...)
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/687561untitled.jpgOriginally posted by freakray
Stupid suggestion: Euro tail lights:p Out of the question. :p :finger:

Ouch. Looks complicated. Perhaps you can scribe the clear red paint after it dries? (I am honestly trying but can't come up with a better idea)/ Liquid mask could work too...

or give in and brush paint the red :sun:

Most liquid mask are water based, don't know how that would work with water acrylics. You could use Testors clear red and amber, but it doesn't do as good a job on that application. I usually just hand brush Tamiya acrylics on the inside of the more complicated tail lights, using the little scribings as barrier's. Do it in two coats, first one is light but wet enough to dry smooth. Put one color down, let dry then do the next color. Acrylics shrink so well that you can get away with brush painting, and still get a smooth even coating.:)

Perhaps you can scrape off the paint in those certain spots after painting?

why don't you airbrush it and juz scratch those area off with a knife leaving it clear.:)

Going from what you have shown, the way i would attempt it is to pre-cut the mask from Tamiya tape. The way to do that is lay down a strip of tape on the backing of a sticker (sticker removed obviously:rolleyes: ), then using a brand new blade cut a fine strip to the width of the channels. Then cut to length and position them with tweezers.

Originally posted by Veyron
Most liquid mask are water based, don't know how that would work with water acrylics.


If you go down to your local art suply shop they will have a range of cheep enamil liquid masks that you can use for acrylics........... but I don't know how it would go with the plastic, I just use 2 coats of liquid mask when painting with acrylics

Originally posted by flyonthewall
Going from what you have shown, the way i would attempt it is to pre-cut the mask from Tamiya tape. The way to do that is lay down a strip of tape on the backing of a sticker (sticker removed obviously:rolleyes: ), then using a brand new blade cut a fine strip to the width of the channels. Then cut to length and position them with tweezers.

Exactly. Pre-cut BMF strips would work in the same way. Burnish parts down w/a toothpick, perhaps one that you've shaped the tip to fit into the corners w/o tearing the mask.

Why dont you just mask the lights from the back and spray the back of the lights??? I always paint clear parts from the back, my friend made that kit a while ago and i remember the backs of the lights being flat so wouldnt that be easier??

If you paint from the back using Tamiya Acrylic just spray with out masking then get a tooth pick dipped in alcohol and carefully scrape away the paint in those areas,they will come clean and clear. My experience with masking agents and water based acrylics is that they bond together with the paint and do not peel very easily.