Carbon fiber parts!!!...!!!...!!!!!!...

I wanna know what kind of stuff and ingridients I need, to make a carbon fiber part and get the best results. But the biggest thing is how do I apply a carbon fiber decal on a not flat curface? Please tell me about the whole process. Pictures would be a great help.

This is something Rallyraider wrote on this in his very l33t progress thread of a Peafeot 206 WRC.

http://139.81.142.25/vbulletin/showthread.php?threadid=76581&perpage=15&pagenumber=1


Decal application technique. Hey?

First of all tools: I use Microset and Microsol decal solutions, a hair dryer, a good quality small/medium sized brush, a very, very sharp modelling knife, tweezers, plus cotton tips and tissues.

Microset is a gentle decal solution, smells acidic, it lightly softens the decal so it becomes more malleable and helps it slide around for easier positioning. It also kind of seals the decal into the paintwork making the edges of the carrier film less noticeable. Microsol is much stronger - it will dissolve some decals completely leaving just a gooey mess. Tamiya decals are in this category, while most carbon fibre decals I've used are very tough and will react well to the strong stuff. But be very careful with it, test first! There are other similar types of decal setting solutions around that work in much the same way.

Start by cutting out an appropriate sized decal, I've heard some people first make a template by covering the area to be decaled with masking tape then use it to cut the correct sive decal. I don't usually bother with that myself, just judge it to be a bit bigger than the part.

Immerse the part in water as usual and at the same time use the brush to coat the part in decal solution. Probably best to start with the gentle stuff until you know what you’re dealing with. Remove the decal and apply as normal, using the tweezers or your fingers. Next move the decal into the right position with the brush or a cotton tip. No big deal so far, however if the surface is curved here is where the fun starts. Use the modelling knife to cut the decal to help it conform to the curve (this can be done when the decal is first cut up if you’ve been thinking ahead). Applying more decal solution use the brush to encourage the decal to lay down the way you want it, then arc up the hairdryer! Make sure the decal is still wet and gradually apply heat. If you’ve done everything right the decal should now act like a piece of heat shrink or one of those chip packets the shrink to miniature size in the oven! The decal will suck down to the surface and conform perfectly. Or it will crinkle up in to a crackled mess. There is definitely an art or rather a knack to getting it right!

While the decal is still warm a bit of pressure from the brush, a cotton tip (or a moist tongue – eeeeuuuuwwwww!) will finish the job. But be very careful! If in doubt just leave it alone! More application of decal solution after everything has dried can give a final snuggling down of any raised or crinkled edges.

Basically the whole process works by torturing the decal with acid and heat till it bows to your bidding and conforms! But don’t push things too far or your subject will crack - “He's got away from us, Jack”

Good luck. Undoubtedly you’ll screw it all up the first few times (or with beginner’s luck make the first one perfect then spend the whole evening trying to repeat the feat), but the beauty of the process is that you can just remove the failed decal, cut out a new bit and start again. Don’t take too long though as some carbon fibre decals are a bit on the expensive side!

Quite an epic post – maybe it should have it’s own thread?


I hope he doesn't mind me quoting him.

No problem Vagabond. :D Pleased to be considered worthy of quoting!

One thing I dodn't mention in the original spiel was to prepare the surface properly, you know, nice and clean, as if preparing to paint. I find that decals of any sort adhere better to a smooth gloss surface and the colour should be close to the decal's so any overlap will not result in a darker or lighter appearance. After the decals have dried they can be given a clear gloss/satin/matt coat, whatever look you are trying to achieve.

seems like alot of work, What would you be using these parts for and what are they off of?

Originally posted by 64 Chevy
seems like alot of work, What would you be using these parts for and what are they off of?

U can make carbo fiber hoods, mirrors, spoilers..... all sorts of stuff.