Just learnt something new, the hard way...

1) Mr Surfacer eats primer. Well at least it reacted with RJ Primer Gray that i used on my Hummer.:mad: No wonder the primer gave way when i sanded it.
2) If u spray paint, ALWAYS (x10000000) sand the surface first, no matter how protected it may be. If u don't, the paint WILL chip. I had to strip the paint on my Raybrig NSX chassis parts just after they were painted two days before because they chipped.:mad: Sanding is even more crucial if u are going to mask the parts.
3) I have always had problems getting a good and even finish with brush painting semi gloss black. Try this for an even finish: dip the brush frequently in solvent before reloading it with paint, it will keep the paint on the brush wet and smooth flowing. Preferably use a slower evaporating solvent, like water.;)

Now i have a qn: for steel monocoque chassis parts with a lot of depressions, how to "sand" into the depressions? IS there any chemical that will etch into plastic so that the paint have more surface area to grip?

1) Never spray full blast of paint, or solvent will eat the underlying coat, unless you are spraying water base top coat on lacquer base paint.
3) Have you heard about Mr. Retarder? It helps.

Whaty does MR Retarder do, what is it made up of, how to use it?

Originally posted by hermanchauw
Whaty does MR Retarder do, what is it made up of, how to use it?

well generally lacquer based paints arent really good for hand painting, they dry way too fast. what the retarder does is increase the drying time of the paint which increases self leveling properties. which allows the paint more time to flatten before drying out. im not sure whats it made of but you just add it to your paint like thinner, as for how much there should be instructions on the bottle.

You can also get Mr Leveling Thinner, which is thinner with retarder mixed in it.

Do yourself a favor, and get semi gloss black in an enamel form. Enamels dry a lot slower and thus you will get a smoother finish as it levels out. I recommend #85 Satin Coal Black by Humbrol (thanks Alex for the initial recommendation!)

so in order to get a smooth brush painting outcome i should dip the brush in water first?
i al ways get those little air bubbles and streaks :(

so in order to get a smooth brush painting outcome i should dip the brush in water first?

i started doing that and it works but satin black is always sold out at the hobby shop when i use the Acrylic satin black i dip the brush half way and brush slowly across the surface.


PS i rarely do this since i dont compete in modelcar shows anymore

If you want to brush paint a good finish, my tips are-

Never work from the bottle, always from a pallete of some kind

Good brushes well looked after are worth their weight in gold

Thin the paint and keep it thinned whilst painting, this helps avoid dragging the paint

Always prime first. But then that goes for any kind of painting!

I've had good results brushing Tamiya and Citadel (Games Workshop) paints thined with Tamiya thinners, and Humbrol enamles thined with comercial grade laquer thinners.

I agree, I highly recommend citadel paint for hand brushing over large areas. Their range is quite unusual though, they've got mostly 'organic' colors like 'burnt flesh' and 'vomit green'. I kid you not.