Best engine and/or forced inductionset-up for Integra

What do you think is the best engine/forced induction set-up for the Integra?

B18C1 with Jackson Racing supercharger ("JRSC")?
B18C1 with Vortech supercharger?
B18C1 with DRAG Gen. 3 turbo kit?
B18C1 with GReddy turbo kit?
B20Z2 with JRSC?

I personally am starting to think the latter set-up may be the ideal, as it is non-VTEC, which becomes all but useless as the boost levels are increased anyway, and the B20 makes a lot of torque (note that the B20 is the engine designated to the Honda CR-V) by design. Under boost, it will be a sizling drag racer with its even torque curve for off-the-line fire and smooth power to about 6,800 rpms. What are some other takes on this?

B20Z, B16A2 head, and then Vortec SC. Of course, I would destroke the b20 some, and get stronger internals. With the near 2 liter displacement and SC there will be plenty of torque off the line, and with the b16a2 head only running a custom cam setup there should be lots of high end as well.

B18b with SC is also a very good performer. Lots of torque, good for road racing I would assume.

Good call!! I didn't touch on that option, but that is a key set-up. I am unsure of how much even a custom cam set can utilize the B16 head's VTEC capabilities at high boost levels (I have been finding that even at the stock 6 psi boost level, I may have already have a little blowby in my cams). While I have never heard confirmatory reports that VTEC does work at high boost levels, I have heard reports of it not being able to function. Probably with very careful dyno tuning and the right cams, you can make it work. And if you can swing it.. that ride will shine. Now the problem we face is figuring out how to fund it.....

And yes, the B18C with SC is GREAT for road racing!!! :D

Edited by: JD@af

Is it gonna be for track or drag use?

Couple cool sites to check out if you haven't..

http://www.b-20.net
http://www.cr-vtec.com

Lotsa cool stuff there

Big turbo setup I'd even stick to a B16A, but a B18C1 with a JRSC is cool too - personally, if I was building up a Civic for track use, I'd stick NA, but that's me :)

Toda B spec cams and gears, or better yet, JUN stage III kit.. mmm.. you could build it to a high 13 sec car in no time flat.. mm..

Only downside I see to my plan - you'll be at three trillion rpm all the time!

Thanks for the links. I'll have to check into this, as I had a pretty much no-brainer decision to go forced induction when I wanted more power from my car (what I really wanted was a little more torque down low - and my JRSC has definitely helped me in getting it). So I never really looked too much into tuning my car with natural aspiration. I've heard that its just as easy to blow your motor (perhaps even easier?!?!) if not carefully dyno-tuned than FI.

I'll look into it. I am actually in the process of deciding what to do with my cams, as that's one of the next things for me to work on next in my quest for more power, and I still have my stock cams, cam gears, etc. And I know I already get some blowby and other forms of power loss due to improper tuning.

Make careful choice of cams when already FI, cuz of the longer duration possibly being too long (bad bad :))

clubsi.com's NA tuning and Got Boost? forums are great for tech info, I'm only an observer, I have no experience with any of the setups :)

I definitely wouldn't say it's easier to blow it at all, unless you've increased comp ratio a whoole bunch, there's really no way of that happening - as long as you keep away from detonation (good stiff-ass valve springs, etc)

Well that is a good suggestion, I'll post a question over at Club Si and see what I can get as a response. And you're right, I was referring to natural aspiration with a heightened compression ratio.

For awesome forged Honda pistons with cutting edge tuning, check out this link:
http://www.theoldone.com/components/pistons/

From what I gather on the B20, is that it is a cheaper engine to purchase than than a B18C. Supply and demand has made the B18C an expensive engine, do to every Civic having an engine swap.

One of the downfalls of the B20 is that Jackson Racing only makes a kit using the M45 blower. Unless one modifies an intake manifold to mate to a M62/M90, making serious power will be difficult. The M45 doesn't seem to respond to higher boost, so this is something else to take into consideration.

As far as a B18C1 with a Vortech supercharger, I don't think that unit is out yet. I believe that it would produce similar numbers to that of the Si. IMO, the Votech Si produced useless numbers below 5,000 RPM.

i say get the h23 with h22 head and vortech sc :)... but out of those i would get the b18 with b16 head and vortec sc.. the b18 it a lot lighter than that crv engine and should be a lot nicer.. weight is hp's worst enemy keep in mind!! they make a lotus that has 172 hp and about 127ft lb torque and it accelerates to 0-60 in 4.7 sec! crazy dont ya think! it only weighs 2250 lbs and is a street car:flash:

I like this one B18C1 with DRAG Gen. 3 turbo kit?
with lots of boost!!!

all depends :).. b18 nice motor as you well know in the type-r.. but the main that that makes the ITR fast is its weight... it has 5 hp less than a prelude but is a tiny bit faster, this all has to do with wieght.. look at the thread i posted about that supercar that has 177 hp and weighs 1700 lbs and gets to 60 in 4.6 :).. this is a great example..

yeah, i've been wondering too! been pondering what type of FI to get....

the vortech for the gs-r engine (b18c1) just came out, they say 46% increase, just check it out on www.vortechsuperchargers.com, but i hear that vortechs aren't that good @ low end, plus they're limited by your engines revving.....both the negatives of superchargers and turbos....

i'm leaning towards the jrsc, cuz it's an easier bolt on, good for street, low/mid end response, less maintenance than turbo.....longetivity....

only thing is that turbo is good for mid/high end racing, and all out power, thou i hear you have to really be a meticulous owner, and upgrade many other parts of your engine to handle it (throttle body, bottom end, etc.) plus if you're CA then the only legal kit is the greddy, i'm not sure about other states....

HELP!

how about having the ls head on the b20b bottom end. Boost up your internals and add a South Florida Performance stage 2 turbo kit. If done right, having the non-vtec head with the low. compres. of the b20b is ideal for a turbo set up. also use the ls tranny and cams, and also set up your susp. with 16"ers. 17 is okay but anything else over that is just tooo big to wanna pull with.
do ur piping 3" all the way back and call Apexi for a muff. Do some weight loss and you have a nice torque beast with the power to pull. If done right and not trying to push boost threw the roof- you could have a very respectable vehicle. If you want to turn heads, then do a jdm Aztec conversion or a s15 conversion. No Gigantic wings!

The JRSC is a PIECE OF CRAP!!! DO NOT GET IT! With the stock pulley it gives a lousy 40-45 HP gain. And don't give me that crap about it being ''low end power roots style SC'', go to their website and look at the dyno's-NO HP GAIN BELOW 3K RPM!!! And they say ''off idle to max RPM'', what a bunch of BS. so from 3K on up it gives 10 HP gain per 1K RPM-like 3-4K it gives 10 HP, 4-5K it gives 20 HP over stock, and so on. Of course you can always upgrade the pulley, but the expensne is more than what it's worth.
Vortech is much better, but turbo is the best form of FI. Of all those choices I wouldn't choose any. Is this with stock internals BTW? Cuz the B20 can't be boosted any more than 8-10 PSI on the stock sleeves, they are really weak. The B18C1 can of course handle more, but then you got the 10:1 compression ratio holding you back for pump gas applications.
The best thing would be turbo on a B18B1, you can run 14 PSI on pump gas and stock internals and make roughly 300 WHP with a good free-flowing exhaust and good tuning.

all depends :).. b18 nice motor as you well know in the type-r.. but the main that that makes the ITR fast is its weight... it has 5 hp less than a prelude but is a tiny bit faster, this all has to do with wieght.. look at the thread i posted about that supercar that has 177 hp and weighs 1700 lbs and gets to 60 in 4.6 :).. this is a great example..
It's not all about weight, it mostly about gearing. The ITR is MUCH faster than a H22 lude, because of the extremely short gearing which keeps the engine screaming and in it's power zone. ludes gearing is more for fuel mileage, which means longer gearing and not so good for N/A applications. Of course the H22 will have loads more torque, but weight does still play a factor here. I'm not telling you that you are wrong, just explaining it's more than just weight.