Painting with MICA blue

New to all this so testing my posting

Hey is anybody out there doing a WRX WRC 2001 tamiya kit?

any assistance will be appreciated

ta

Welcome to AF :wave:

Originally posted by laserds90
New to all this so testing my posting

Hey is anybody out there doing a WRX WRC 2001 tamiya kit?

any assistance will be appreciated

ta
I just finished this one last fall. What do you wnt to know about the build?

thanks for replying kicker1_solo

Did you get a good smooth finish with Tamiya mica blue?

With the painting of MICA blue, do you find once you put it on its a little rough, i found with brillant blue tamiya its smooth, its like the mica blue still has metallic or peeling look. Do you apply in many light coats, whats the best way to get good look on metallic paints, i have read guiddy's article, but hey more tips would be helpful.

Do you apply gloss or semigloss for WRC kits, whats a good way to give it that more realistic WRC look?

ta

Did you get a good smooth finish with Tamiya mica blue?

Always clear coat Mica's, Metallic's and Pearls for best results.:)

I don't have a problem with Mica Blue going on rough, actually applied right, it goes on as smooth as any other paint I have sprayed, when using the correct technique.
Are you sure you are spraying it from close enough to the model and not too far away, spraying from too far away could cause it to go on rough.....another thing, what conditions are you spraying in, is it cold?

To be honest, it sounds more like you are doing something wrong spraying?
I will post photos of the Subaru I am busy building as soon as I get home, I sprayed it Sunday and got an extremely smooth finish.

Ray

Okie

Well spray in fine coats because was reading in the tips here spray in thin coats and not heavy otherwise runny, and will not dry as smooth sprayed close and was getting a smilar effect, how close how far should i be spraying and the technique?

please help, getting very confused, when i did it with other colours it looks quite good, just metallics, hmmm???

How smooth is smooth or does it depend on my primer surface does it have to be baby smooth, ?i have 2 coats of primer and sanded with 1500 uneven surfaces before applying paint

Primer 2 coats
sand between coats
light mist coats followed by heavier
after 10mins - 15mins
heavier mist coats
thats first coats

when should i put more heavy coats to get the finish,

ta

Originally posted by laserds90
Primer 2 coats
sand between coats
light mist coats followed by heavier
after 10mins - 15mins
heavier mist coats
thats first coatsThe order sounds fine. Make sure you warm up the can before you spray, like Ray said... just put in under the hot water tap for a minute or so right before you spray...

oh its going on in hot weather, so no probs there,

and i also heat the paint can in for 45secs in warm water before application

Hot weather, what about humidity?
Humidity can have an affect too.....
Do you shake the can or swirl the can? Shaking it will introduce bubbles into the paint so when you spray it can cause a rough surface, if you swirl the can in a circular motion, you will still agitate the paint, jsut with out introducing bubbles, you want to swirl it at least 2 minutes too...

BTW, where do you live? Hot weather sounds so nice right now:)

Ray

hey ray

Shake the can upside down and down have not swirl yet

downunder here in OZ land where with the Koalas out bush..

okie will give it a go, how far do you spray from the kit, or close, how runny with from the kit, do you have pics of the car?

humidity low,

how about you where do you live? do you use compound or sandpaper between polishing the plastics

cheers

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/378830subieside.JPG

Ah....in the land of Oz :)
I wondered because I grew up in South Africa but now live in the USA.

Like I said before, shaking will mix gas into the paint, which will cause bubble and roughness in the paint job, it is better to swirl the can in a circular motion. You really want to hear the ball rolling around the can.

It is hard to put a specific on how far I hold the can, it depends on whether I am doing a mist coat or a wet coat, a wet coat is when I am doing a final coat. I think I hold the can about 5 inches(13 cm) from the model when I wet coat, I can't say an exact distance because I have had a lot of practice.

The photo is my Subaru Impreza Safari I am busy with, that is after the final coat of paint, no sanding or polishing at all during or after painting.

There is so much more in the FAQ about painting, perhaps itis worth your while spending a lot of time reading all the info there?

Feel free to ask if you need to know anything else:)

Ray

Hey ray

yepp thats exactly it, i achieve this look with my wrc99 subaru and when came to wrc 2001 i am experiencing real headaches, using the same process you are right you don't have to do much with it the paint just looks spectacular,. and a little bit of clear on it and alittle polish really comes up well

applying the same process doesn't seem to work i wonder why??

hey with the light coats how far away?

do you do lighht coats light coats? then wet coats, when do you apply the final wet coat.

ta

I have to ask, did you thoroughly wash the body before you started spraying?

I apply about 4 mist coats, probably 6 inches away, just to gradually fully cover the body(I start with a coat of Tamiya white primer), then 3 wet coats, working up to the final wet coat which is the one I use to achieve the final finish.
The light/mist coats don't even cover completely, it takes the 4 to completely cover the primer if I gradually get a little heavier every time, then the same with the wet coats. This is what works for me though, everyone is different.
I don't know why you would experience different between the 1999 and 2001 when it comes to painting.....

Ray

I will try and get back to you if i have any probs

cheersdon't want to get over confused..