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Heat valve control line


Ricardo_france
12-17-2007, 07:05 PM
Hello.

I've some questions about the heat system on my '77 caprice.

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/1791/sanstitre1024x768us4mn6.jpg

The A/C works fine, but no heating (since I bought the car)

I've located the heater valve, but the vacuum connector is blocked by a screw. (1)

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/4521/dscf0007800x600jk3.jpg

On the right side (near the blower box), I found 2 small vacuum lines (1 white and 1 brown).
How do I plug these 2 lines ?

Another question:
What's this part ?

http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/1214/moteur800x600ft5jh7.jpg

Thank's for your help :wink:

PeteA216
12-17-2007, 11:08 PM
These disconnected vacuum hoses are definately the cause of no heat. The black sphere is a vacuum globe, which acts as a vacuum "buffer" to help keep vacuum in the system even at WOT. This particular vacuum globe buffers the vacuum for your vent controls, switching from floor, to the main front vents, to the dash defrost vent. It's also likely it supplies the heater line valve with vacuum as well.

silicon212
12-17-2007, 11:22 PM
The 'orb of nothing' as Blue Bowtie calls it (because it's a vacuum sump) connects between intake manifold vacuum (connects to a port on the intake behind the carb, a TH350 vacuum modulator line connects to the same fitting - this is called MANIFOLD vacuum as opposed to PORTED vacuum), and the underdash vacuum system that operates the various doors and controls on the A/C system.

The heater control valve is supplied with vacuum that is sourced from under the dash - it's usually a brown colored 'hard line' (plastic instead of a rubber hose). The white line supplies vacuum from the vacuum sump to the underdash network. You don't want to plug either of these if you want your heater to work as designed.

Part #1 is your heater bypass valve (as you stated),
Part #2 is your EGR valve, and
Part #3 is your EFE heat riser valve diaphragm.

Part #2 receives vacuum from a PORTED source through a ported thermal vacuum switch (TVS) on the pre-computer cars, and part #3 receives ported vacuum through a separate TVS.

On the computer cars, an electric relay replaces the TVS for the EGR.

bobss396
12-18-2007, 09:03 AM
Not that you asked, but.. you didn't have to strip it to the bare block to get to your heater control parts.

Bob

j cAT
12-20-2007, 02:14 PM
that engine needs rebuild. i think your heat problems are now the least of your concerns...

Ricardo_france
12-20-2007, 04:36 PM
Thank's to all.

Some precisions:
My engine worked well, but some hydraulic lifters were noisy.
That why I opened my engine.

beuarkkkkk !!!! :puke:
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/7946/6800x600vc1.jpg

http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/8536/7800x600hy1.jpg

The EFE valve ... blocked closed
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/7473/vanne1800x600hb0.jpg

Now, the engine is rebuild.
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/2839/dscf0001800x600th3.jpg
EFE and EGR were removed.

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