383 stroker questions
kyle_1500
12-17-2007, 01:22 AM
im building a 383 with the block that i pulled from my 89' k1500, this is a high school project for me, and im still learning, so i wanted to get some input on a descent intake manifold, cam, and heads without breaking the bank. also, i love the look of a tunnel ram intake but im not sure how practical this is?
MrPbody
12-17-2007, 07:55 AM
Kyle,
What kind of vehicle are you putting it in? What do you want it to "do"? We need more detail to give you a good recommendation for the parts you ask about.
Jim
What kind of vehicle are you putting it in? What do you want it to "do"? We need more detail to give you a good recommendation for the parts you ask about.
Jim
kyle_1500
12-17-2007, 07:52 PM
well i would like to put put it in an 86' s10, and im shooting for something like 400 - 450 hp. also the engine is a 2 bolt main, and im debating weather or not to buy 4 bolt splayed caps?
MrPbody
12-18-2007, 08:01 AM
Save the money for modifying the 2-bolt block and just get a 4-bolt. The cost of upgrading the block will surpass that of buying one already there.
Tunnel rams may look "cool", but not practical for street use, for the most part. They are for high RPM applications.
If iron heads are what your budget allows, and you can spring for them, Dart "Iron Eagle" is the head of choice. Get the larger chambers to keep compression at a manageable level. If factory heads are to be used, we like "441" or "993" (there are other good castings, too, these are considered the better with large chambers).
Comp XE grinds are pretty hard to beat. For the power level you want, a 230 (@.050" lift) intake duration is called for. Keep max-lift under .550".
We like Edelbrock Performer RPM "Air Gap" for street 383s. An AED 750HO carb tops it off just right.
Lastly, be sure to get a high quality "kit" for the rotating assembly. For this level of power, the ONLY cast crankshaft we see as good enough, would be a genuine Chevrolet 400 crank, with the mains ground down to fit the 350 block. These Chevy cranks are getting kinda scarce... Eagle and others make a very good quality kit with a forged steel crank ("cast steel" is NOT what people refer to as a "steel crank").
Jim
Tunnel rams may look "cool", but not practical for street use, for the most part. They are for high RPM applications.
If iron heads are what your budget allows, and you can spring for them, Dart "Iron Eagle" is the head of choice. Get the larger chambers to keep compression at a manageable level. If factory heads are to be used, we like "441" or "993" (there are other good castings, too, these are considered the better with large chambers).
Comp XE grinds are pretty hard to beat. For the power level you want, a 230 (@.050" lift) intake duration is called for. Keep max-lift under .550".
We like Edelbrock Performer RPM "Air Gap" for street 383s. An AED 750HO carb tops it off just right.
Lastly, be sure to get a high quality "kit" for the rotating assembly. For this level of power, the ONLY cast crankshaft we see as good enough, would be a genuine Chevrolet 400 crank, with the mains ground down to fit the 350 block. These Chevy cranks are getting kinda scarce... Eagle and others make a very good quality kit with a forged steel crank ("cast steel" is NOT what people refer to as a "steel crank").
Jim
kyle_1500
12-19-2007, 02:03 PM
thanks for the help, thats all the info i was looking for. Ill update soon when i finish the build
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