major power loss
laserloser2
09-24-2001, 11:28 PM
For about 2 months now my car just doesnt have the balls that it used too. I have done everything I can think of to try and fix it I replaced all my filters, spark plugs, and my cat. Nothing seems to have helped....It has 92,000 on it and used to run like a champ! Got any ideas???
Ravq
09-24-2001, 11:34 PM
You running premium gas?
laserloser2
09-24-2001, 11:37 PM
Yeah i run high test all the time.... I deliver pizza tho and do alot of idling might that have something to do with it?
Ravq
09-24-2001, 11:39 PM
Probably not. You'd have problems with overheating if it were idling too much.
Ravq
09-24-2001, 11:41 PM
No engine light? You could try a compression test to see if you're are losing it somewhere. I'm just tossing suggestions up in the air. Did your car show any bad symptoms or have any major repairs lately?
laserloser2
09-24-2001, 11:42 PM
a friend of mine suggested that maybe my timing chain has streched anybody else had any experience with that? I checked my compression today and it was between 180-190 is that good?
Ravq
09-24-2001, 11:47 PM
I doubt it's the chain. You'd probably notice the sound it makes when it's bad. You can check it with a short length of tubing used as a stethoscope. You may pick up something abnormal sounding. As for the compression let me look in the repair manual to see if that is normal.
Ravq
09-24-2001, 11:48 PM
What year is your car?
Ravq
09-24-2001, 11:57 PM
Here is a quote from my Chilton manual pgs. 3-58 - 3-59:
Compare the highest readings from each cylinder to that of the others. The indicated compression pressures are considered within spec if the lowest reading cylinder is within 75 percent of the pressure from the highest reading cylinder. For example, if your highest reading cylinder pressure was 150psi, then 75 percent of that would be 113 psi. So the lowest reading cylinder should be no less than that.
If a cylinder exhibits an unusually low compression reading, pour a tablespoon of clean engine oil into the cylinder throuth the spark plug hole and repeat compression test. If the compression rises after adding oil, it means the cylinder's piston rings and/or bore are damaged or worn. If the pressure remains low the valves may not be seating properly or the head gasket may be blown near that cylinder.........
Compare the highest readings from each cylinder to that of the others. The indicated compression pressures are considered within spec if the lowest reading cylinder is within 75 percent of the pressure from the highest reading cylinder. For example, if your highest reading cylinder pressure was 150psi, then 75 percent of that would be 113 psi. So the lowest reading cylinder should be no less than that.
If a cylinder exhibits an unusually low compression reading, pour a tablespoon of clean engine oil into the cylinder throuth the spark plug hole and repeat compression test. If the compression rises after adding oil, it means the cylinder's piston rings and/or bore are damaged or worn. If the pressure remains low the valves may not be seating properly or the head gasket may be blown near that cylinder.........
laserloser2
09-25-2001, 12:26 AM
My car is a 95 and my highest comp reading was 190 and lowest was 180 so i should be fine
laserloser2
09-25-2001, 12:26 AM
any other ideas?
Ravq
09-25-2001, 12:30 AM
Not yet but I'll let you know if i think of anything else.
Ravq
09-25-2001, 12:33 AM
Try posting this on http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?forumid=9 you can get some more opinions there. There are some really mechanically inclined members that may help you more than I.
laserloser2
09-25-2001, 12:48 AM
ok thanx alot for your help
Ravq
09-25-2001, 12:50 AM
No problem. Good luck with finding the source of your power loss. Please do update me if you find it. Just to satisfy my curiousity.
JimJohnD
09-27-2001, 09:44 AM
I have a 1991 Maxima Automatic.
Do you have any "extra" belt noise? This just happened to me. About two weeks ago I was in the drive-thru line at a local Taco Bell. As I sat there I noticed the revs drop and a belt squeak that was quite loud. At first I thought the AC clutch was locking or something along that lines. It changed with the engine rpm, but seemed less while driving home. When I got home the noise was gone and everything seemed fine, but I could feel the drag and loss of "pep".
I keep track of my MPG and had noticed that my in town (all I do) dropped from 18 to 20 down to 15!!!
The same drop in pep and belt noise had happened from time to time up to the last three days when it became constant. I tracked the belt noise to the alternator. But the noise wasn't the screeching like you'd expect from bearings. Yikes :eek: ($350.00 for Nissan install, $150.00 to do it myself). On Monday Max started fine to go to work. When I came out at lunch the battery was completely dead, no nothing.
I had a co-worker give me a jump, and when we connected the jumper cables his engine made the same kind of belt noise trying to charge mine as mine was making. I finally got started and the belt noise was quite loud. When I got home I put my charger on the battery, it was drawing like crazy. I popped the filler caps and two of the cells were kind of milky looking. I added some water to the fill marks and say the plates were really corroded. Made a zip to a local auto-parts store and got a new battery ($65.00). Put it in and no more belt noise and the "pep" is back!!! :flash:
I did a charging system check and everything is within normal operating parameters now. Having a charge/discharge gauge would have tipped me off to this one, but wow. I would have never guessed you could loose so much power just turning the alternator.
Try checking your charging system. I did not get any ECU codes or dash warning lights on this one.
Do you have any "extra" belt noise? This just happened to me. About two weeks ago I was in the drive-thru line at a local Taco Bell. As I sat there I noticed the revs drop and a belt squeak that was quite loud. At first I thought the AC clutch was locking or something along that lines. It changed with the engine rpm, but seemed less while driving home. When I got home the noise was gone and everything seemed fine, but I could feel the drag and loss of "pep".
I keep track of my MPG and had noticed that my in town (all I do) dropped from 18 to 20 down to 15!!!
The same drop in pep and belt noise had happened from time to time up to the last three days when it became constant. I tracked the belt noise to the alternator. But the noise wasn't the screeching like you'd expect from bearings. Yikes :eek: ($350.00 for Nissan install, $150.00 to do it myself). On Monday Max started fine to go to work. When I came out at lunch the battery was completely dead, no nothing.
I had a co-worker give me a jump, and when we connected the jumper cables his engine made the same kind of belt noise trying to charge mine as mine was making. I finally got started and the belt noise was quite loud. When I got home I put my charger on the battery, it was drawing like crazy. I popped the filler caps and two of the cells were kind of milky looking. I added some water to the fill marks and say the plates were really corroded. Made a zip to a local auto-parts store and got a new battery ($65.00). Put it in and no more belt noise and the "pep" is back!!! :flash:
I did a charging system check and everything is within normal operating parameters now. Having a charge/discharge gauge would have tipped me off to this one, but wow. I would have never guessed you could loose so much power just turning the alternator.
Try checking your charging system. I did not get any ECU codes or dash warning lights on this one.
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