02' GTP problem

I have an 02' Grand Prix GTP with 50,000+ miles. Just yesterday I stopped at a stop sign, and when I went to press down on the accelerator, the steering wheel locked up, and the car wouldn't move, but the motor kept running with the oil and battery light showing. So i had to restart the motor, I made it to a parking lot, opened the hood with the car running and heard an unfamilar sound around the alternator (sort of like the sound you make if you hold a piece of paper toward a moving fan), I checked the oil with the car off for a few minutes, it was fine. (Mind you I've had the car for a month, and bought it from Carmax). Someone picked me up.

Next day I started the car up, and it died completely after i backed out the space. Thinking it was the alternator, due to the battery light and oil light coming on when it dies, I removed it (unhooked battery ground first), and took it to Autozone to have it tested. It passed the tests, unfortunately, so I reinstalled it, the car started fine, drove it for about 2 mins, and it died completely, with the same two lights coming on.

I'm not sure what the problem could be, battery?, oil pump? idler? Any help is appreciated.

Regards

There are several possible issues here. First, did the security light come on? It is usually on the radio. If it did you will need to have the system reset or try another stock key to see if that helps. This sounds like a security issue but could also be the Crank Position Sensor causing the car to stall. The fuel pump relay could be bad and causing the car to stall as well. There is also the remote possibility that the oil pressure sending unit, small can at the top of the oil filter, is bad and when the oil pressure drops too low the car will shut off. This is a safety feature that will shut off the engine if the oil pressure goes to low. IF the sending unit is bad it can cause the car to shut down since the computer thinks the oil pressure is too low. Just a few places to start looking.

Thanks a lot for the reply. I never checked to see if the security light came on. But wouldn't disconnecting the battery have reset the system or is there another way.

As far as the Crank Position Sensor, me and a friend were wondering if I had a bad sensor somewhere, is there a way to test this without chugging my car to autozone for a OBDI diagnostic test? What about the other possible problems?

Regards

*Edit
If by security light you mean the one on the console that would show up next to the other warning light, than no. I thought you were referring to the blinking light in the middle of the dashboard by the windshield.

What does the belt look like? Are there any burnt looking spots on it? I would suggest removing the belt and spinning all the accessories by hand, as it could be a locked up idler pulley, A/C compressor or other accessory causing the belt to slip.

What does the belt look like? Are there any burnt looking spots on it? I would suggest removing the belt and spinning all the accessories by hand, as it could be a locked up idler pulley, A/C compressor or other accessory causing the belt to slip.
Thanks for your reply.
The alternator belt was a little cracked, so I bought a new belt, but it was cold outside so I didn't replace it. If it is a pulley thats locked up how would i know.

Also, this is probably important, but the car doesn't die while idling. It will only die while driving.

It isn't a security issue because if it was, it wouldn't start at all. The security system can not cause it to run poorly or stall. It could be a clog cat. converter if it bogs when giving it gas.

There's a rattling noise coming from somewhere around where the pulleys are at. Could it be the S/C pulley? Bad coupler?

I'm gonna take it to the dealership and see if they can diagnose it, thanks for you guys input.

Take the S/C belt off and see if the noise goes away. This would explain why it only happens while driving and not at idle.

I took it to a dealership and they say is probably the Crank Position Sensor. Is there a fuse/relay for that sensor?

Not that I'm aware of. When that thing doesn't work right all kinds of wierd things can happen which most of the time result in a vehicle that won't run.

Ok, they said they replaced the crank position sensor, but I still have the same pissed. And aside from being pissed, how do you do a fuel pump resistor bypass for this year GP?

Why would you want to waste your time on that? In your initial post you stated that the car died as you were driving it and also heard a sound around the alternator. If that's the case then I'd be looking at the battery, battery cables, main ground, or even the alternator itself.

My money is on the MAF sensor. Disconnect it, drive the car around and see if it does it again.

Why would you want to waste your time on that? In your initial post you stated that the car died as you were driving it and also heard a sound around the alternator. If that's the case then I'd be looking at the battery, battery cables, main ground, or even the alternator itself.
Alternator is fine it was tested initally, same with the battery. The sound is a mistake on my part, I'm not used to an motor like this and it's a normal sound coming from the lifters.

It turns out the guy didn't do his job when diagnosing my car (if he did any), and it seems to be the MAF sensor, with it disconnected the car runs fine (I just drove 4 hours from school to my home in Chicago, ran fine with it disconnected).

So thanks a lot for everyones help.

Be careful with assuming it is the MAF sensor. I just recently replaced the MAF sensor in my car for similar problems, but still get the same problems. Could possibly be something else, but it is worth a shot.

My car was running like doo doo.. miss firing, stalling at red lights, I bought a scanner because I had no check engine light and 5 codes came up, to include the MAF sensor and the check engine light. (yes, there is a code for that). Replaced the MAF sensor and two other codes went away with it and the car runs like a dream now.. still working on the last code in another post.

Be careful with assuming it is the MAF sensor. I just recently replaced the MAF sensor in my car for similar problems, but still get the same problems. Could possibly be something else, but it is worth a shot.
Thanks for the tip, I'm gonna see what Carmax has to say.

Since you say the noise you were hearing was mis-diagnosed, I would agree it may be a MAF issue. If you have a CAI or reuseable (K&N, Air Hog, etc...) type air filter installed, the chance it's a MAF are very high. The oil used in those filters can get sucked into the MAF filiment causing your symptoms.

Nope all stock. No aftermarket parts

Since it runs good with the MAF disconnected, I'd say you found your problem. Buy a new one from ZZperformance or an AC-Delco one. Reman ones from Standard and Cardone are basically junk.