Boring question!

OK, it's not really.

I tend to use a right handed tool and cut on the right side of a piece if I'm boring items such as wheel rims with the lathe running in reverse (this keeps the tool cutting in the correct direction). My reason for doing it this way is that it's easier for me to see what I'm doing as I work.

Does anyone else use this method and is it frowned upon?:eek:

I've used that method when working on full size lathes, I don't think it's so much a case of right way to do it rather than the easiest way to achieve the cut required.

I don't think my Sherline will run in reverse? So it's likely not an option for me?

But, yes, I've thought the same thing. Hard to see what's really happening. Your solution sounds good to me...

Murray

Here's why it's usually not done:

Many lathes (including the Sherline) are designed with standard right hand threads somewhere in the spindle- for instance, most chucks on a Sherline lathe are attached to the spindle by the right hand threads on the spindle shoulder. Run the lathe in reverse, and you can actually unscrew the chuck while you're cutting.

If you're sure that you don't have right hand threaded components that can't be undone by running your machine backwards then there's really no reason you can't- but inclusion of right handed threads in lathe design can be subtle. If you're using a self centering chuck, it might be possible that turning it backwards may open the chuck and loosen the workpiece....

But here's another solution- why not use a standard left handed boring tool, but make a toolpost to hold it reversed/upside down. It still won't give you quite as good a view, but cutting the on the far side you still may be able to see better than cutting on the near side.

And no, I don't think you can get a Sherline motor to run backwards. I suspect the motor control electronics would punish you severely if you tried. :uhoh:

How do you stop the bottom half of the cutter from rubbing on the inside of the bore than? My boring bar is cut so that it will only fit in a 1/2" hole (although I did grind a smaller one yesterday), do you modify a right handed cutter to fit in the bore?

Mike

I use a modified drill bit for a boring bar. As far as seeing better with the tool away from you, I find it easier to see what I'm doing when the tool isn't in the way. It's not like you're only boring one half of the hole.

How do you stop the bottom half of the cutter from rubbing on the inside of the bore than? My boring bar is cut so that it will only fit in a 1/2" hole (although I did grind a smaller one yesterday), do you modify a right handed cutter to fit in the bore?

Mike

It's a good question Mike and I've had issues with this happening too. I'm on the lookout for some small boring bars at the moment - seen some on eBay that have a 6mm shank and head.

I use a modified drill bit for a boring bar. As far as seeing better with the tool away from you, I find it easier to see what I'm doing when the tool isn't in the way. It's not like you're only boring one half of the hole.

I seem to need to see the tool cutting the surface for some strange reason. I think this will become even more of an issue when I start trying to make smooth rounded profiles for steps in wheel rims etc. I really need to grind up some rounded profile tools for this but enjoy trying to do it freestylie.:screwy: :icon16:

But here's another solution- why not use a standard left handed boring tool, but make a toolpost to hold it reversed/upside down. It still won't give you quite as good a view, but cutting the on the far side you still may be able to see better than cutting on the near side.


We used to do exactly that on old clunker lathes with bad spindle bearings. Flip the tool over, run it in reverse using a RH tool.

Bob