First post with new car!

Hey guys,

I haven't posted since I bought my 2007 civic si, and i just wanted to share some encounters that i've had. So far i've got a CAI, race header, and catback exhaust.

Most races i've had have been integras etc. and they all end with me up numerous car lengths. Only two real notable races stand out to me.

The first was against my buddy with a lightly modded SRT-4. We had several races over a couple of weeks, some with bad launches/shifting etc. but the overall result was him barely beating me.

When we went from a dig, he would have me by about half a car by the end of 3rd, but when we start from around 80km/h (50 mph) we can't pull away from each other! it is absolutely dead even. I was happy about this, seeing as SRT-4's are no slouches!

The second race was against a 1990 turbo crx. now, i didn't anticipate this race. i was at the red light and the crx calmly pulls up next to me just before the light goes green, so i didn't even notice what it was right away.

Anyways, i heard him get on it after i already shifted to second, so i follow suit. As soon as I shift to 3rd, I look over and notice he has a boost gauge on his A pillar and I think to myself, "this is going to be over pretty quick."

Now, we are dead even until I hit 4th gear and I see that he has finally gained traction... yeah, he took off like a bat out of hell. I followed him ending up at the top of 5th and he was easily 10 car lengths ahead of me.

We were heading the same direction for awhile and I wanted to see if he'd pull over so I could see what he had, but I eventually came up to my turn off.


Sooo.. those are my encounters so far, and as much as i suck at posting race stories, i'll be back with more!

cliff notes: some turbo cars beat on my N/A civic, one not as much as the other.

I've seen a new Si i/h/e at the track and the guy was getting beat by his son in a stock Cobalt SS/SC. The SI was running 14.3-14.6 and was trapping 97-98 all day. Now the guys son was almost dipping into 13,s and trapping at 102 in the Cobalt.

I say nice runs but I get walked pretty hard up top by slightly modded SRT-4's and I was trapping as high as that SI all day but pulling off a 14.2. What do you top out in 3rd gear?

I personally have tried to get several new Si's to run me lately but none want to try. I have been spanked bad by these 2 older turboed civics. Those things freaking haul ass up top...

I'm done...

Good races, if I were you I would be getting some k pro in your whip broseph

I had one of the new SI sedans try to race me tonight. I just waved him on, didn't want to waste the gas, lol.

What do you top out in 3rd gear?

I don't know the exact speed as i'm too busy paying attention to the revs, but i'd say probably around 135ish km/h, 2nd tops around 95ish i believe.

I'd love to get k-pro but it hasn't been developed for the new Si's yet. The only ECU tune available is hondata and it lowers vtec engagement to 4500 from 5800 and raises rev limit from 8250 to 8600, so it raises power quite a bit in the mid range.

I'm saving up for the Hytech N/A build up kit. Sure it's easier to go F/I with a 2.0 litre engine, but i love the sound of a high revving N/A.

I think the Hytech kit is around 4100 USD and puts out 265 whp and 180 wtq on pump gas, 280 and 190 on 100 octane.

It will never be as fast as a AJP turbo Si, but it would sound amazing! :P

I don't know the exact speed as i'm too busy paying attention to the revs, but i'd say probably around 135ish km/h, 2nd tops around 95ish i believe.

I'd love to get k-pro but it hasn't been developed for the new Si's yet. The only ECU tune available is hondata and it lowers vtec engagement to 4500 from 5800 and raises rev limit from 8250 to 8600, so it raises power quite a bit in the mid range.

I'm saving up for the Hytech N/A build up kit. Sure it's easier to go F/I with a 2.0 litre engine, but i love the sound of a high revving N/A.

I think the Hytech kit is around 4100 USD and puts out 265 whp and 180 wtq on pump gas, 280 and 190 on 100 octane.

It will never be as fast as a AJP turbo Si, but it would sound amazing! :P

I don't agree with the way you're thinking of spending your mod money.

But LOL @ your cliff notes :D Nice.

I don't agree with the way you're thinking of spending your mod money.

But LOL @ your cliff notes :D Nice.

yeah I dont agree with that method either, 4k for 260whp isnt my cup of tea, but its your cash

yeah I dont agree with that method either, 4k for 260whp isnt my cup of tea, but its your cash

4k for 260 at the wheels is just fine. That don't bother me at all. What bothers me is $4K for only 190ftlbs of twisty power.

Nice car man.

yeah I dont agree with that method either, 4k for 260whp isnt my cup of tea, but its your cash

well, if it makes ya feel better, thats not bad for n/a power. hell, if i wanted that kind of power from my sr20de, id be spending a bit more.

400ish springs and retainers
700ish custom grind cams
1100 custom header
1700 tomei crank
160 sr16ve pistons
300 eagle rods
300 3'' catback
130 3'' wai


and a bunch of internal work like port polish and Extrude Honing. not including the tuning of ecu's or anything.

that total that i can put above without labor if you dont put it together yourself is 4900ish. that will net you at least 210ish whp N/A. there are only a couple of 200+whp NA sr20de's. and im talking maybe 3-4 that arent built from like jun and tomei. these are from street tuners on pump 93 gas.

I spent $309 and I should be around 260 at the wheels with 290 of twisty power. I so less than three boost.

well, if it makes ya feel better, thats not bad for n/a power. hell, if i wanted that kind of power from my sr20de, id be spending a bit more.

400ish springs and retainers
700ish custom grind cams
1100 custom header
1700 tomei crank
160 sr16ve pistons
300 eagle rods
300 3'' catback
130 3'' wai


and a bunch of internal work like port polish and Extrude Honing. not including the tuning of ecu's or anything.

that total that i can put above without labor if you dont put it together yourself is 4900ish. that will net you at least 210ish whp N/A. there are only a couple of 200+whp NA sr20de's. and im talking maybe 3-4 that arent built from like jun and tomei. these are from street tuners on pump 93 gas.

I know

But I dont like building it up NA for what you can do with boost for cheaper. 4900 for 210whp is pretty crazy, unless you have loads of cash and dont care.

If I wanted to have a really fast car (ie. turbo the si) i wouldn't have bought the si :P I appreciate the car for what it is, a decently quick N/A 4 banger that loves to rev.

If the only thing I was shooting for was an ultimate street racer, i would've picked up an MS3 or SRT-4 for about the same price.

If/when I feel the need for more power, I just may look into a supercharger! the only thing that beats an engine revving to 8k+ rpms is doing it with that sexy whine at the same time! That would also help out my torque figure quite a bit.

If I wanted to have a really fast car (ie. turbo the si) i wouldn't have bought the si :P I appreciate the car for what it is, a decently quick N/A 4 banger that loves to rev.

If the only thing I was shooting for was an ultimate street racer, i would've picked up an MS3 or SRT-4 for about the same price.

If/when I feel the need for more power, I just may look into a supercharger! the only thing that beats an engine revving to 8k+ rpms is doing it with that sexy whine at the same time! That would also help out my torque figure quite a bit.

That's what my friend did, SC'd that ho. Enjoys it alot more

I know

But I dont like building it up NA for what you can do with boost for cheaper. 4900 for 210whp is pretty crazy, unless you have loads of cash and dont care.

i agree with ya gforce but,

how should i say this.

if i would have put on the t28 set up that i bought a year ago and sold 3 months ago, i would be putting around 300whp for about 3k. too bad if i actually installed it, i would have blew up my transmission, and would have gone into broken piston ring land. i would also not have a car.

"Not to mention the piston rings you fried. Now me and the mad scientist have to tear apart the block." - bad F&F quote
------------------

i agree with ya gforce but,

how should i say this.

if i would have put on the t28 set up that i bought a year ago and sold 3 months ago, i would be putting around 300whp for about 3k. too bad if i actually installed it, i would have blew up my transmission, and would have gone into broken piston ring land. i would also not have a car.

"Not to mention the piston rings you fried. Now me and the mad scientist have to tear apart the block." - bad F&F quote
------------------

haha yeah, I didnt mean buying the FI setup and have it break stuff, just that if you have a choice between NA and FI like in this case where the tranny would be fine, I would go FI. He would most likely need to upgrade his clutch tho. I dont know how great the SI's is, but the RSX didnt last too long with 270ish whp.

^^From my understanding, there is little difference between the new SI and an RSX type S.

^^From my understanding, there is little difference between the new SI and an RSX type S.

Yeah, just some slight stuff, I believe the RSX makes more power and has greater modding capability, but the SI has LSD. I dont know if they upgraded things like the clutch and such.

"Not to mention the piston rings you fried. Now me and the mad scientist have to tear apart the block." - bad F&F quote

I have this strong feeling that if your boost spike with nitrous was so bad to blow out your floor board, the pistons would be the least of your worries.

Yeah, just some slight stuff, I believe the RSX makes more power and has greater modding capability, but the SI has LSD. I dont know if they upgraded things like the clutch and such.

I was not aware that the engine was different at all. What I understood was that when the SI came out, the engine was going to be rated at 200 Hp but because of the new hp ratings, they could only rate it at 197. I didn't think there were any actual mechanical differences that would limit its output to less than that of the RSXS. I am not calling you out haha. I just was not aware of a power difference, or that mods would be different between the two. I don't know though, I looked at the SI only for a limited time and I am by no means an expert.

I believe the engine in the SI is the K20Z3, the engine in the 05-06 rsx-s is the K20Z1 and the 04 rsx is the k20a2

I have this strong feeling that if your boost spike with nitrous was so bad to blow out your floor board, the pistons would be the least of your worries.

yea. i would be afraid of not winning the cash, and the respect. and i live my life at a 1/4mile at a time. i beat a guy to death with bad car facts.

on a serious note, i dont think the tuner community would be the same w/o F&F. brought in a lot more parts, and cars developed just for being quick. hell, the ms3 might not even exist.

I believe the engine in the SI is the K20Z3, the engine in the 05-06 rsx-s is the K20Z1 and the 04 rsx is the k20a2

you're right, the engines are quite different. MAF, balance shafts, intake manifold, head etc. it's like a k20a2 (04 rsx) & k24a2 (tsx) hybrid.

on a serious note, i dont think the tuner community would be the same w/o F&F. brought in a lot more parts, and cars developed just for being quick. hell, the ms3 might not even exist.

I wouldn't go as far to say cars like the MS3 and such wouldn't exist, it is a natural extension of the Mazda3 series, much like the MSP Protege. However, I don't think the sport compact segment would be half as well known as it is now without that movie. I didn't know about half the cars that were in that movie until I saw it. I can tell you I wouldn't be half as much into cars as I am now if it weren't for that movie. And I'll see the fourth one on opening day, just as I did the first three, because if nothing else, it is fun to go in, turn off your brain, eat some popcorn and just have a good time.

Back on topic, however, I can see where boost would be cost prohibitive with the tranny issues. I'm starting to see a new resurgance of more power, high rev NA cars where boost is cost prohibitive. Instead of incuring massive debt in going with a 2JZ-GTE turbo swap with a stronger six speed in his IS300, for example, my buddy is going to do a long term high revving NA build on his 2JZ-GE IS300. Sure, he could get gobs more power by just heading down to MVP or Power House or Boost Logic, but the cost is just obscene, especially considering the car is his daily driver and he can't really let it be down for the time to do the swap.

That, and as cool as turbo'd Hondas tend to be, some one has to rep the high rev NAs out there.

you have one of the best 4 banger n/a known to man, and this is coming from a hardcore toyota fan.

imho, keep it n/a, hondata that thing and run 13s daily driven, 12s ain't far either.

you have one of the best 4 banger n/a for gas and reliabilityknown to man, and this is coming from a hardcore toyota fan.

imho, keep it n/a, hondata that thing and run 13s daily driven, 12s ain't far either.


fixed it for you.:icon16:

That, and as cool as turbo'd Hondas tend to be, some one has to rep the high rev NAs out there.


::Raises hand slowly:: Though i'm sure you were talking strictly about hondas and not the RX-8

::Raises hand slowly:: Though i'm sure you were talking strictly about hondas and not the RX-8

Four rotor for the win. Do it now.

When it comes to N/A power and reliability the last car I think of is Rx-8.

Sorry. Fun car to drive though, that I will say it is.

When it comes to reliability the last car I think of is Rx-Anything.

Even more true.

When it comes to N/A power and reliability the last car I think of is Rx-8.

Sorry. Fun car to drive though, that I will say it is.


I could prove you wrong. There are plenty of RX-8's that have hit over 100k miles and havent had a single problem. My step dad had a 86 non-turbo RX-7 that went over 200k miles and never gave him a problem, he had to get rid of it because my brother was born back in 97. As long as you take care of the cars they will take care of you, basically goes for most vehicles, some it's in their nature to just break down, like DSM's and VW (Kicks the jetta once more)

I could prove you wrong. There are plenty of RX-8's that have hit over 100k miles and havent had a single problem. My step dad had a 86 non-turbo RX-7 that went over 200k miles and never gave him a problem, he had to get rid of it because my brother was born back in 97. As long as you take care of the cars they will take care of you, basically goes for most vehicles, some it's in their nature to just break down, like DSM's and VW (Kicks the jetta once more)


Glad to here your family has had good luck with them but that does not mean they are a reliable car. Take a look at consumer reports, etc when it comes to the RX-(), it's not good. Sorry, it just isn't.

Glad to here your family has had good luck with them but that does not mean they are a reliable car. Take a look at consumer reports, etc when it comes to the RX-(), it's not good. Sorry, it just isn't.


excpet that for 2 years 2004-2005 the rx-8 was consumer recommended, hmmmm 2006 didnt have a rating due to the fact that the 06 models came out too late, and then the '07 models recieved heat because of the recalls mazda had about the engines which applied 98% to RX-8 with an Auto transmission. On top of that what do most everyday consumers buy? AUTOS!

So yeah if you wanna believe everything you read especially about consumer reports which consists of reports from people who arent aware they need to add 1/2 a quart of oil every 1500 miles between oil changes because its the natural habit of the engine to consume the oil and those are the same people who arent aware that they need to redline the rotary engine a minimum of once a day to prevent carbon build up in in the ports (which by the way was the problem in the autos because they cant rev as high as the manual and people who buy the autos dont generally floor it anyways). These are also the same people who dont care what kind of junk you put into the gas tank because anything less than 91 will cause knock and timing retardation. So yeah go ahead and listen to consumer reports of average people over Thousands of enthusiasts who know how to maintain their vehicle.

Those everyday people should go by a honda or a toyota which is more forgiving on what kind of crap they do to their cars, where I will continue to do my bi-weekly maintainance on the car to make sure it runs properly. 23k miles and not a problem, no check engine light, no knock, no valve tick, i love the car and it treats me well in response to how I treat it, just like any other car.

http://smiliesftw.com/x/pity_1.gif (http://smiliesftw.com)

So yeah if you wanna believe everything you read especially about consumer reports which consists of reports from people who arent aware they need to add 1/2 a quart of oil every 1500 miles between oil changes because its the natural habit of the engine to consume the oil and those are the same people who arent aware that they need to redline the rotary engine a minimum of once a day to prevent carbon build up in in the ports (which by the way was the problem in the autos because they cant rev as high as the manual and people who buy the autos dont generally floor it anyways).
Holy run on sentence Bat Man. On a more serious note, where in the owners manual does it say "you have to red line the engine once a day". I would love to see the scan of that. At least a page and quote or some such.


These are also the same people who dont care what kind of junk you put into the gas tank because anything less than 91 will cause knock and timing retardation. So yeah go ahead and listen to consumer reports of average people over Thousands of enthusiasts who know how to maintain their vehicle.
First you use Consumer Reports to defend your position, then here you say its wrong. You can't discredit your source, or else you discredit the entire argument.

Those everyday people should go by a honda or a toyota which is more forgiving on what kind of crap they do to their cars,
I find it a rather glowing aspect that you can beat the shit out of a Honda or Toyota, treat it like shit, and it will still run forever.

where I will continue to do my bi-weekly maintainance on the car to make sure it runs properly. 23k miles and not a problem, no check engine light, no knock, no valve tick, i love the car and it treats me well in response to how I treat it, just like any other car.
Your kidding, right? There is no reason, ABSOLUTELY NONE, that any car produced after the year 2000 should require BI-WEEKLY maintainance to be kept running in a proper fashio. NONE. Enthusiast or otherwise, you shouldn't have to do that much maintainance in one year just to avoid CELs, Knock, or Tick. Rotary or otherwise. I'm well aware that rotor motors have a bit more issues than their piston counterparts, and that they consume oil a bit faster, but really, that is just unacceptable.

The mazda RX-8 is the only car i've ever seen come off the manufacturers delivery truck with crank no start, engine problems...

Holy run on sentence Bat Man. On a more serious note, where in the owners manual does it say "you have to red line the engine once a day". I would love to see the scan of that. At least a page and quote or some such.



First you use Consumer Reports to defend your position, then here you say its wrong. You can't discredit your source, or else you discredit the entire argument.


I find it a rather glowing aspect that you can beat the shit out of a Honda or Toyota, treat it like shit, and it will still run forever.


Your kidding, right? There is no reason, ABSOLUTELY NONE, that any car produced after the year 2000 should require BI-WEEKLY maintainance to be kept running in a proper fashio. NONE. Enthusiast or otherwise, you shouldn't have to do that much maintainance in one year just to avoid CELs, Knock, or Tick. Rotary or otherwise. I'm well aware that rotor motors have a bit more issues than their piston counterparts, and that they consume oil a bit faster, but really, that is just unacceptable.



1) It doesnt say it in the manual it's been proven by countless techs who have worked on the rotary engine that redlining it once a day will help to prevent carbon build up.

2) I only said that consumer reports said the rx-8 was a consumers choice for those that hold the values of consumer reports in such high reguards, I think consumer reports is 80% crap.

3)I never said there was anything wrong with a honda or toyota, but if you remember I did own a toyota and mine turned out to cause me more headaches than my jetta does.

4) by bi-weekly i meant every 2 weeks, maybe i shouldve put semi-monthly to avoid confusion, just forgot the wordings at the moment. Anyways if you did understand me the reason why I do maintenance is just to make sure fluids are good and brakes are good, I do drive alot and I wanna make sure everything is in tip top shape before I go. You do not need to maintenance the car that much, it's just something I prefer to do is all. The main thing is that you need to make sure you have a decent amount of oil so you dont run dry (Though you most likely wont run dry but better safe than sorry).


I know that I'm probably wasting my breath here on you guys especially when you hear rotary you automatically assume they are all like the FD's where they will explode on start up. But anyone who has owned rotaries or been around them enough will tell you that they are not all the same and that that the FD's were the cars that both helped to make the engine famous for being a good balanced, fast car and ruining the reputaion of reliability that the FC's put for the car.

Oh well, you dont want to listen its your choice, I'm out.


Oh and to the OP nice races, be safe and have fun with the car. Take it to an autocross course cause those things do very nice around the cones.

1) It doesn't say it in the manual it's been proven by countless techs who have worked on the rotary engine that redlining it once a day will help to prevent carbon build up.
Then show me the TSB. Show me the recall notice. Show me the advisory. Show me where it says that you should redline your motor once a day just to keep it from blowing up.


I only said that consumer reports said the RX-8 was a consumers choice for those that hold the values of consumer reports in such high regards, I think consumer reports is 80% crap.
So you agree with it when it supports you, but when it doesn't, you don't? Sorry, but this dog don't hunt. You either agree with it fully, or don't agree with it. Unless you can disprove the parts that claim counter to your initial claims, then it doesn't work like that.


I never said there was anything wrong with a Honda or Toyota, but if you remember I did own a Toyota and mine turned out to cause me more headaches than my Jetta does.
As did mine. And this just goes to show you can't utilize anecdotal evidence in order to prove a point. Or make base claims. Your RX and a some others have run fine. Thats great. That doesn't mean the majority of them have run sans problem, or haven't required extensive maintenance to keep in proper condition.

By bi-weekly i meant every 2 weeks, maybe i shouldve put semi-monthly to avoid confusion, just forgot the wordings at the moment. Anyways if you did understand me the reason why I do maintenance is just to make sure fluids are good and brakes are good, I do drive alot and I wanna make sure everything is in tip top shape before I go. You do not need to maintenance the car that much, it's just something I prefer to do is all. The main thing is that you need to make sure you have a decent amount of oil so you dont run dry (Though you most likely wont run dry but better safe than sorry).
I'm sorry, but the fact that you have to make sure to check your oil that often to make sure you don't run dry is still totally unacceptable. You should not have to do general maintenance twice a month to avoid CELs and engine damage on any car made after 2000. This is not a classic car on the original motor, this is a new car on a new motor and should not require such constant attention just to keep up and running.

I know that I'm probably wasting my breath here on you guys especially when you hear rotary you automatically assume they are all like the FD's where they will explode on start up. But anyone who has owned rotaries or been around them enough will tell you that they are not all the same and that that the FD's were the cars that both helped to make the engine famous for being a good balanced, fast car and ruining the reputation of reliability that the FC's put for the car.

Your missing the point entirely. I love FDs and FCs. Assuming my little MGB project goes off without any major hitch, the next pick is most likely going to be a rotary car. I haven't decided how I would go with such, but it is in the plans. I would love an FD with a well done mild port 13B or 20B, or hell maybe a quad rotor. The point we are trying to make is that it is a joke to think a rotary car is a perfectly reliable car. They suck oil like we drink water, they need a lot of work to keep running fine, and they are horrible with the mileage. Your fooling yourself if you think a rotary is a nice, reliable motor.

I'm well aware that you love your car, but you still have to point fault where it is. I do the same with my car. I disagree with the gearing thoughts, but the shift feel is vague, its wrong wheel drive, and the fuel pump is a major weak point when taking modifications into mind. However, it fits my needs AND wants perfectly, and I love it. That doesn't mean I wont point out anywhere it could be better. We aren't attacking you or your car, we aren't attacking rotaries, but when I think reliable cars, FCs, FDs, and RX8s are at the end of my list.

[/hijack]

http://smiliesftw.com/x/yeahthat.gif (http://smiliesftw.com)

I've seen a new Si i/h/e at the track and the guy was getting beat by his son in a stock Cobalt SS/SC. The SI was running 14.3-14.6 and was trapping 97-98 all day. Now the guys son was almost dipping into 13,s and trapping at 102 in the Cobalt.

I say nice runs but I get walked pretty hard up top by slightly modded SRT-4's and I was trapping as high as that SI all day but pulling off a 14.2. What do you top out in 3rd gear?

I personally have tried to get several new Si's to run me lately but none want to try. I have been spanked bad by these 2 older turboed civics. Those things freaking haul ass up top...

I'm done...

That kid was lying to you if he said his Cobalt SS was stock and running 13's. Those cars can barely break out a low 14 sec. pass with a professional driver.

Anyhoot. I think your ride, author, is pretty sweet. Those new Si's ain't no joke for the money you pay for them. Minor mods will get them to dip into the low 14's, which is what i'd expect your car to run, provided you hook up.

What are we talking about ??

Tits.http://smiliesftw.com/x/Banane20.gif (http://smiliesftw.com)

They sold the first Nissan GT-R last night for the equivalent of $94k. It was used, LOL! Also, that new Mazda Furai...man that thing looks fucking mean.

That kid was lying to you if he said his Cobalt SS was stock and running 13's. Those cars can barely break out a low 14 sec. pass with a professional driver.

Anyhoot. I think your ride, author, is pretty sweet. Those new Si's ain't no joke for the money you pay for them. Minor mods will get them to dip into the low 14's, which is what i'd expect your car to run, provided you hook up.

Read his post again he didn't say he was running 13's.. but low 14's so you can still moan about it. [edited]

That kid was lying to you if he said his Cobalt SS was stock and running 13's. Those cars can barely break out a low 14 sec. pass with a professional driver.

Anyhoot. I think your ride, author, is pretty sweet. Those new Si's ain't no joke for the money you pay for them. Minor mods will get them to dip into the low 14's, which is what i'd expect your car to run, provided you hook up.

I said he was almost dipping into 13's which meant low, low 14's. I was actually right there and witnessed this and I'm pretty sure that Cobalt was stock or he would not have had any trouble getting into 13's...:) :) :) :)

I said he was almost dipping into 13's which meant low, low 14's. I was actually right there and witnessed this and I'm pretty sure that Cobalt was stock or he would not have had any trouble getting into 13's...:) :) :) :)

Not neccessarily. A fair amount of stage 2 SS/SC drivers barely hit a high 13 second pass.