Oil Leak
MyNeoN95
12-01-2007, 01:07 PM
95 Neon SOHC
I have a oil leak behind the cam shaft sprocket. Is there a seal I can change or Am I screwed and need to change the head, Or can I use Bar oil leak sealer? Thanks for any help
I have a oil leak behind the cam shaft sprocket. Is there a seal I can change or Am I screwed and need to change the head, Or can I use Bar oil leak sealer? Thanks for any help
inafogg
12-01-2007, 02:05 PM
hello there should be a seal,im not real sure but think you may have to remove cam??but you'll be able to tell once you pull valve cover good luck
denisond3
12-01-2007, 02:47 PM
Yes there is a seal behind the camshaft sprocket known to be a source of leaks, and it can be changed with the head & camshaft in place. Once you get the sprocket off, the seal shouldnt be too hard to get out, in fact it may be ready to fall out! (Or it wouldnt be leaking?) Working in that narrow space isnt my idea of fun though. (I pulled the entire motor out due to a bad main seal, so as to replace all of the engine seals - and that made it easy).
To get to that seal you have to: undo the p.s. pump and pull it up out of the way, take off the outer timing belt cover, the crankshaft pulley, the inner timing belt cover, the timing belt, and the cam pulley. It will take a fair amount of working in that narrow space between engine and the inner side of the body, to get the covers off. You will need to remove the motor mount, and to raise and lower the motor a few times to be able to remove motor mount bolts and pull the crankshaft pulley off. Since you will have the timing belt off - this would be a good time to replace it; unless it was replaced in the last 20k or 30k miles. Its supposed to be replaced at least every 100,000 miles, and you will see how much trouble it is to get to. When you change the timing belt, its also recommended to replace its tensioner pulley. And since replacing the water pump involves removing the timing belt first - a new water pump now would mean you could forget about that going bad for a long time.
If you take out the through bolt from the front motor mount, and unbolt the a.c. compressor - you can tilt the motor forward a fair amount. This is handy for things like replacing the alternator, and other work behind the engine block.
Or take the total engine out, and replace the crankshaft seals too!
To me, the Barr's stop-leak products are okay for getting you 'home from a vacation' - but the seals on our Neon were all far too loose in their seating. I think this was from age. I pulled the rear main seal out with my fingernails! The new seals all went in good and tight though.
To get to that seal you have to: undo the p.s. pump and pull it up out of the way, take off the outer timing belt cover, the crankshaft pulley, the inner timing belt cover, the timing belt, and the cam pulley. It will take a fair amount of working in that narrow space between engine and the inner side of the body, to get the covers off. You will need to remove the motor mount, and to raise and lower the motor a few times to be able to remove motor mount bolts and pull the crankshaft pulley off. Since you will have the timing belt off - this would be a good time to replace it; unless it was replaced in the last 20k or 30k miles. Its supposed to be replaced at least every 100,000 miles, and you will see how much trouble it is to get to. When you change the timing belt, its also recommended to replace its tensioner pulley. And since replacing the water pump involves removing the timing belt first - a new water pump now would mean you could forget about that going bad for a long time.
If you take out the through bolt from the front motor mount, and unbolt the a.c. compressor - you can tilt the motor forward a fair amount. This is handy for things like replacing the alternator, and other work behind the engine block.
Or take the total engine out, and replace the crankshaft seals too!
To me, the Barr's stop-leak products are okay for getting you 'home from a vacation' - but the seals on our Neon were all far too loose in their seating. I think this was from age. I pulled the rear main seal out with my fingernails! The new seals all went in good and tight though.
wntgrwup
04-02-2008, 02:28 AM
DUDE !!!!
You guys are to funny ! Are you sure you schould be working on your own cars ?
First clean the oily spot (get a hand spray cleaner,toothbrushes,cardboard,hose with hi pressure.
Follow the.....
card board under the mess
I have had spark plug grommets/o-rings, leak too
You will need metric sockets 3/8 drive,wrnches.....
I Built engines close to 20 yrs
If i can help let me know, I will try
SidePipe
You guys are to funny ! Are you sure you schould be working on your own cars ?
First clean the oily spot (get a hand spray cleaner,toothbrushes,cardboard,hose with hi pressure.
Follow the.....
card board under the mess
I have had spark plug grommets/o-rings, leak too
You will need metric sockets 3/8 drive,wrnches.....
I Built engines close to 20 yrs
If i can help let me know, I will try
SidePipe
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