Sticky Shift Knob/Button

I have a 1998 Intrigue with 125k miles. It has the usual SES light that is always on, the transmission "shutter" on accelleration and idle, and is just showing its age. Its never been in an accident.

The newest problem that I've not been able to solve is a sticky shift button on the transmission.

Here is what happens:
When car is parked in garage overnight (or parked for a while anywhere), it is VERY difficult to get the car out of Park because the button will not function on the shift lever. The break will be applied, but the button won't work.

The current cure:
Patience and working the shift lever forward and backward (usually forcefully) while pushing the button and finially it will push in and allow me to get out of Park.

It "seems" like it only happens when its cold outside or even if the engine is "cold". Otherwise I can turn the car off for a few hours come back and it works fine. Just the other day I left it at the airport parking for a day and when I returned it was in the sun and the interior was warm... no sticky button this time.

Any suggestions? I could use the help.

Well, there is a switch connected to the brake pedal that controls the buttons ability to be pushed in. I cant remember its exact location, but I believe it would be underneath that carpet above the brake pedal somewhere, might be something to investigate if your a DIY kind of person.

Also for another temporary fix try this, turn the key to the ACC position. On my car that allows the button to be pushed in without touching the brake pedal, so that might be a temporary solution for you.

As for that SES light, do you know whats causing it? It could very well have something to do with the transmission problems youre describing. Whip into any major auto parts store and they should pull the code for you free of charge, better yet ask if you can borrow the equipment and run out and do it yourself. You learn a thing or two in the process, plus you dont have to deal with them trying to make a sale off of the information they pull, as many will try to do.

I got the code read about a month ago. I no longer have the report, but it was the O2 sensor: too much/little O2, fuel pressure too high/low, mis-fire, etc.

That sensor has been "bad" for about 4 years. The first time it came on, it was fixed by tightening the gas cap. Then I had to replace the cap to fix the light. Then it was fine until winter and the light stayed on until it got warm. For 3 years it was off in the summer and on in the winter.

This last summer it came on and rarely turns off. Maybe for a few days here, few there, but mostly is on.

I've used premium gas, added additives (gas treatment, injector cleaner) and it only helped once (but that could have been one of the days where the light turned off anyway).

The transmission is a hassle and an expense I can't afford. I plan to keep the car around as long as it works with minimal repair/maintenance costs. Then its new car time... we have a 1 yr old baby so its time for a minivan or something.

But the shift knob sticking is a real problem at the moment. My brother who works at GM mentioned the same thing to me... something to do with a possible faulty switch telling the shifter that the break is pressed. I'll look into it this weekend.

Thanks for the help!

I've got that problem the odd time. The release button just wont push in unless you fiddle with it by moving it back and fourth and keep pushing and then it works. Its not happening offen enough to bother me but I assume if it did it everyday it would be a problem. Im wondering if you can just disable the locking shifter? May be dangerous as you mentioned you have a young child (could move the shifter and cause it to roll if you were at a gas station filling up or something of that nature) Same problem could happen with your pets. working E-brake i think would be essential if you did this. I know the newer nissans have a shift lock button, manually allowing you to disable the shifter lock. Also, pull the codes again and get a print up. It coud be something serious or something stupid. Usually SES lights are fuel system or emissions related. Could need a set of plug wires to correct the misfire. Might be a tranny code relating to the torque converter lockup. The codes are generally very hepfull at diagnosing the problem. Another thaught is my friends car had internal transmission issues, and when it finally went the O/D light flashed on and off...and it would not allow him to shift out of park. I dont think this is common in most cars today but back then it was a feature on his car.

Another solution may be to leave the car in Neutral with the parking brake applied. The car will start in this position, but you may not be able to take the key out of the ignition unless the car is in Park. I myself would try to disable the locking mechanism. I have a child as well, but when she is in the car she is strapped into her seat. There is no way she can get out herself.

I got the code read about a month ago. I no longer have the report, but it was the O2 sensor: too much/little O2, fuel pressure too high/low, mis-fire, etc.

That still sounds like multiple codes and multiple issues to me. An O2 sensor wouldnt normally cause a mis-fire, and fuel pressure wouldnt normally even set a code, at least not with that wording. It might set a rich or lean condition, but that would only be because of the information from the O2 sensor.

My wife's '98 Intrigue has 125K miles on it and had the same problem with the SES light coming on. It turned out to be a hole in the gas filler pipe, causing code 0442 (small emissions leak) to be set. About $75 later, problem solved.

But this is about the sticky shifter which my wife's car is also experiencing now. Anyone confirm the brake pedal switch theory?

Hello-- Long time reader, first time poster.

I’ve got both a 2000 and 2002 Intrigue and the 2002 is also having a problem with a sticky shifter button and difficulty shifting into park and turning the key to off and removing the key.


There is a Brake Transmission Shift Interlock that is part of the shifter assembly. The Brake Transmission Shift Interlock (BTSI) is designed to prevent shifting the transaxle out of PARK without pressing the brake pedal. This works together with the switch under the brake pedal that LittleHoov mentions above.


I lubricated the Brake Transmission Shift Interlock with some spray silicone and below here’s a list of what I did. This may or may not work for you, and do so at your own risk.

Access the sifter assembly. Open the console cover and remove the two (2) 7mm bolts. Open the cup holder, and lift up on this piece of plastic. It is held in with 4 push clips. Disconnect the Traction Control switch. (There’s a typical electrical snap “hook” on the back of the switch to pull back with a fingernail to remove the wire. This isn’t really required, but it’s easy and gives you more room to work.) It may be easier to get this to pull up and off the shifter by shifting to D or 2nd gear. Of course use the brakes when doing this, and possibly block a wheel so your car doesn’t go anywhere.
Next remove the 4 bolts around the bottom of the shifter assembly (7mm).
Now sitting in the drivers seat pull the plastic part that displays the PRND21 display upwards on the metal shift assembly. Everything including the leather boot just slides up. This is just to look at what’s going on underneath, no need to remove the button. Button can be removed by removing a small metal clip that can be seen in the slot behind the shifter. I guess you use a screwdriver to do this, but I didn’t do it as I knew my button wasn’t broke yet. You’ll get a bit more room by removing the light bulb from this assembly. Turn it counterclockwise and it will come out. It took a bit more force that I thought it would so be careful.
Now sitting in the drivers seat, you should see a black cylinder with a wire connector attached to it at the front left of the shifter.
With the tires blocked for safety try shifting with the key in the acc position. Based on what I have read this brake safety interlock is not activated in the accessory key position. Again confirmed by the LittleHoov post above.
You will see the solenoid actuating from the front (closest to the heater control..) of the black cylinder.
Use a light lubricant on the solenoid shaft and the cables. I used a spray can of silicone spray and spayed it into a cup, and used a q-tip to dab this silicone on the solenoid shaft and both of the cables, and all metal pivot points that could be seen. There’s lots of plastic under there and I was careful not to gum up the cables and get something that might eat the plastic!
The cable on the driver side of the shifter stalk is the parking lock cable and is attached to the bottom of the ignition switch and tells the ignition switch if the car is in park.
The cable on the right of the shifter stalk is for the transmission shift cable.
I tried working with two dealerships to get part numbers for the solenoid. I guess it is replaced as part of the shifter assembly which is more than I wanted to spend.
I believe this solenoid lock is activated when the solenoid has power. I guess you could unplug it and should shift with or without your foot on the brake. Possibly as I haven’t tried it, and I would do so at your own risk.
Assembly is the reverse procedure to put back together. Make sure the electrical wire for the light bulb of the shifter doesn’t interfere with the BTSI part that moves. Use some electrical tape and tape up these wires.I hope that helps with some of the issues people are having with their shifters. It could also be a shifter cable out of alignment or a shift button assembly that is actually broken.

Good Luck..

Great post, carbon02. Thanks! Your procedure is on my Saturday to-do list. I will report my findings.

Well, it took a while but I finally got to attack the problem using carbon02's procedure. I am not totally convinced that the problem is solved but I guess the fact that my wife is not complaining about it is a good thing. :) I lubricated all of the recommended areas (cables, surfaces, etc.) and things seem to be better. While going through the process, I did notice that the shift button was still sticking but maybe the lubricant needed time to penetrate. In any case, things are working for now. Again, you have my gratitude.

mine does this now in the cold weather...I use two hands and press very hard and it always works...lately its been mild (above freezing anyway) and it doesnt do it...

My wife's car was not so cooperative. Even with two hands, the button would not disengage. Maybe we have a really strong solenoid, but it just would not release until it warmed up.

As a workaround, I believe it was previously posted that you can disable the shift button by simply turning the key to the ACC position (not ON or START). From there, you can put the car into Neutral and start it. It's ugly (and not particularly safe) but it works.

What's not safe about starting your car in neutral?

I would say disable the entire system. Back before you had to hit the brakes all you had to do was turn the ignition from lock to off or on to get the shifter to come out of park. What about standard vehicles. I always used first gear as park. Once you pressed the clutch or pulled the shifter into neutral with the engine off the car would roll if set on an incline. I would just disable it totally. I've heard of many GM vehicles with this brake/shift interlock having problems. I would just get rid of the solenoid or whatever it is. I'd rather be on time for work than wrestle with a stupid solenoid at 5 in the morning.

You’ll get a bit more room by removing the light bulb from this assembly. Turn it counterclockwise and it will come out. It took a bit more force that I thought it would so be careful.

There's a light bulb in there? What does it illuminate?

Only bulb i can think of is the one that illuminates the strip with the gear indicators on it. I dont know what its called officially, but its the clear plastic piece that has PRND321 on it. Its supposed to light up at night or whenever your lights are on, yours might be burnt out, mine was when i first bought my car, but i knew it was supposed to light up. Mostly because I had a friend who also had an Intrigue and hers lit up at night. Otherwise i mightve just thought it was normal.

No kidding... I totally thought it was normal until he mentioned a bulb being in there. Obviously, mine never lit up when I bought either. I always thought it was kind of cheesy that it didn't light up at night. I might try to find a bulb for it. Although, I'm pretty much used to looking at the dash repeater to find out what the hell I'm doing at night now...

Its a pretty common bulb, the number escapes me, but Im pretty sure its in the owners manual somewhere. Probably one of the interior bulbs or something.

If you cant find it that way, just pull everything apart, and drive down to the auto parts store and match it up there. Its only a couple bucks, and makes things a little easier to see what youre doin.

Its a pretty common bulb, the number escapes me, but Im pretty sure its in the owners manual somewhere. Probably one of the interior bulbs or something.

If you cant find it that way, just pull everything apart, and drive down to the auto parts store and match it up there. Its only a couple bucks, and makes things a little easier to see what youre doin.

It should be a 168 or 194. Just depends on how bright you want it. If you want it a little less bright, use the 168. Just thought I would throw that out. I had to replace mine too. Most previous owers must not have used that indicator, or just decided to ignore the burnt out bulb..:2cents:

Replaced it. It is SO nice to able to see what I'm doing at night. I'm not sure what wattage I put in there, I just threw in what I found in my collection. But I can't beleive it burns whenever the key is on. No wonder these things go out all the time. I assumed it would come on when the headlights are on.

BTW I found a company which sells a LED wedge-base bulb for 3 bucks. It might be worth the investment so you don't have to keep tearing into the console to replace this bulb.

And sorry for hijacking this thread, but I just had to ask!

After fighting my BTSI issue, I simple removed the solenoid of which reverts the shifter to the pre-BTSI days.

I assessed the characteristics for the solenoid to "lock upon power" but somehow mine seemed to seize even with the connector off. My conclusion was, that the solenoid's magnetic piston became magnetized (over several years) making it difficult for the unit to extend for shifting out of park.

Normally I run my car till the wheels fall off, so I plan on using my Intrigue as is, for the time being.

After fighting my BTSI issue, I simple removed the solenoid of which reverts the shifter to the pre-BTSI days.

I assessed the characteristics for the solenoid to "lock upon power" but somehow mine seemed to seize even with the connector off. My conclusion was, that the solenoid's magnetic piston became magnetized (over several years) making it difficult for the unit to extend for shifting out of park.

Normally I run my car till the wheels fall off, so I plan on using my Intrigue as is, for the time being.

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