Getting to the cps?????
Asu
11-27-2007, 11:01 PM
I was replacing the cps and i could not get to it. To you have to drop the tranny or take anything out to get to it. thanks
1996Chreokee
11-27-2007, 11:21 PM
citizen@large
11-29-2007, 12:44 PM
From a thread I started here: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=708327
I'll not have those troubles again though. After getting the blasted thing out, I could see the extent of the damage and decided to try to fix it rather than spend the cool C-note. So I broke out the soldering iron and went at it making sure to cut out any corroded areas out of each lead. Some shrink-wrap, elec-tape, and a new stretch of loom, (<-is that what it's called?), along with a resistance (ohm) test (should read ifinite @ a 1K-10K setting for my year-'98 ), and I felt good enough to give it a try...
But how to get this *&&$^# thing back in there?! I came across a genious idea somebody posted.
Basically this: I took the dremel tool and a cutoff wheel to the mounting holes and made nothches out of them instead so I won't have to take the bolts all the way out again. I then carefully threaded the bolts back in a little and [I]slid the CPS back on. Tightened it up with my trusty 3/8's ratchet-10"extension-wobble-10"w/wobble extension-11mm socket.
(BTW- disconnecting the front sway bar and jacking the front drivers side way-up gave me just enough room to not have to touch any other bolts to reach the CPS and it's horrible placement!)
Stretch/Flex her out real good from the uni-body, not the axle itself. You need the room, believe me.
Another good link for ya: (Scroll most of the way down to find CPS) http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm
~Good Luck
I'll not have those troubles again though. After getting the blasted thing out, I could see the extent of the damage and decided to try to fix it rather than spend the cool C-note. So I broke out the soldering iron and went at it making sure to cut out any corroded areas out of each lead. Some shrink-wrap, elec-tape, and a new stretch of loom, (<-is that what it's called?), along with a resistance (ohm) test (should read ifinite @ a 1K-10K setting for my year-'98 ), and I felt good enough to give it a try...
But how to get this *&&$^# thing back in there?! I came across a genious idea somebody posted.
Basically this: I took the dremel tool and a cutoff wheel to the mounting holes and made nothches out of them instead so I won't have to take the bolts all the way out again. I then carefully threaded the bolts back in a little and [I]slid the CPS back on. Tightened it up with my trusty 3/8's ratchet-10"extension-wobble-10"w/wobble extension-11mm socket.
(BTW- disconnecting the front sway bar and jacking the front drivers side way-up gave me just enough room to not have to touch any other bolts to reach the CPS and it's horrible placement!)
Stretch/Flex her out real good from the uni-body, not the axle itself. You need the room, believe me.
Another good link for ya: (Scroll most of the way down to find CPS) http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm
~Good Luck
wwwildman
12-04-2007, 07:45 PM
Is it 2WD or 4WD?
It i much easier on a 2WD. I jack the front end up and put it on jack stands for both configs.
I put a rag over the opening in cae I drop the mounting bolt and used several extensions. I could barely get my hand on the bolts. I tie a string to the connector and remove the old, then use the string to pull the connector up on the new one.
For 4WD it helps if you disconnect the front drive shaft and move it out of the way. I also remove the trans crossmember bolts and lower the trans about 2 to 3 inches. This helps.
Mike
It i much easier on a 2WD. I jack the front end up and put it on jack stands for both configs.
I put a rag over the opening in cae I drop the mounting bolt and used several extensions. I could barely get my hand on the bolts. I tie a string to the connector and remove the old, then use the string to pull the connector up on the new one.
For 4WD it helps if you disconnect the front drive shaft and move it out of the way. I also remove the trans crossmember bolts and lower the trans about 2 to 3 inches. This helps.
Mike
03cavPA
01-06-2008, 05:21 PM
I just replaced the cps on my 95 Cherokee Sport w/auto trans.
I won't say it's a piece of cake, but it wasn't as bad as I expected, thanks to a little reading on this forum first.
I put mine up on ramps, because I could see that I'd be able to get at it without too much swearing and fussing. I had the extensions and universal ready, and I took off the airbox and intake hose right off the bat.
From underneath, I contemplated dropping the front driveshaft, but it looked like it wouldn't be necessary. I got the idea to disconnect the shift cable from the tranny (one nut), and then I could get my hand all the way to the sensor.
I got the bolts out and removed and replaced the sensor from the top end, as per fredjacksonsan's method. I then used a little plumber's putty to hold the bolts in the socket, and threaded them back in from below. Fortunately, the sensor only goes on one way, no holding required to keep it in place while you tighten the bolts.
I plugged it into the harness, put the airbox back on, and fired it up. Started better than it has in a long time.
Total time: 1 hour, 5 minutes.
Total beers: I'll let you know when I stop consuming. I just finished the job before I sat down to type this. :ylsuper:
I won't say it's a piece of cake, but it wasn't as bad as I expected, thanks to a little reading on this forum first.
I put mine up on ramps, because I could see that I'd be able to get at it without too much swearing and fussing. I had the extensions and universal ready, and I took off the airbox and intake hose right off the bat.
From underneath, I contemplated dropping the front driveshaft, but it looked like it wouldn't be necessary. I got the idea to disconnect the shift cable from the tranny (one nut), and then I could get my hand all the way to the sensor.
I got the bolts out and removed and replaced the sensor from the top end, as per fredjacksonsan's method. I then used a little plumber's putty to hold the bolts in the socket, and threaded them back in from below. Fortunately, the sensor only goes on one way, no holding required to keep it in place while you tighten the bolts.
I plugged it into the harness, put the airbox back on, and fired it up. Started better than it has in a long time.
Total time: 1 hour, 5 minutes.
Total beers: I'll let you know when I stop consuming. I just finished the job before I sat down to type this. :ylsuper:
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026
