A Few New Pics

A few pictures taken this weekend @ Forest Park in St. Louis, MO. A couple @ the Great River Road in Alton, IL. St. Louis and Alton are 20 minutes from each other. (FYI)

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/8140/newspec1qg8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/6461/newspec4at1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/2262/newspec2co2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/9149/newspec3nd8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/2682/newspec5ff2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/9830/newspec6dy0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

The UR sticker is going to be taken off as soon as I get un lazy...

nice nice. how far are you gonna go with the car? its at the level of cool DD right now. if your trying to keep it that way, i would only change out parts you already installed for better ones down the road(i.e. upgrade headers, ect.). theres no need to comprimise any more driveability. one thing you could do is get your car tuned on a dyno. find someone who has their own programs and see if you can get them to reflash your stock ECU for a little fatter torque curve and less dropoff at the top end. other than that your car is badass. (oh and get new rims too. something forged).

Thanks for the compliment! I've worked really hard to mod the car, but still keep it clean and not cheesy.

As of right now, it is a DD. However, here is what I SHOULD have done by Spring:
Stop Tech Slotted Rotors (purchased)
Nismo Cams: 7whp (Purchased)
WRP Variable Exhaust Cam Sprocket: 4-6whp (Purchased)
SAFC Neo (purchased)
Eiback Front Stay bar (purchased)
Rear Sway Bar (Purchased)
WRP Grounding Kit (Purchased)
SS Braided Clutch Line (Purchased)
Rev Auto Torque Dampener(Rev Auto is supposed to give one to me for my help with R&D on solid Nylon Motor Mount Inserts)


Yet To Purchase:
JWT Clutch/Flywheel Combo (OR) Clutch master stage 3/fidanza flywheel
SS Stop Tech Brake Lines(On Xmas List, lol)
Hawk All Ceramic Pads


I also purchased a Spare Cross Member + Mounts and I intend on filling my current mounts with 90a Urethane. These will be more reliable than my ESMMI's, will allow for less motor movement, but they will be a lot less harsh on vibrations than solid mounts.


I plan on having a shop to my Clutch/Flywheel/Cams/Tune/SAFC NEO install for me with my tax returns. I have done everything else to my car myself, but as I said It's a DD and I'm not that advanced to do those mods.

By the end of summer, I'd like to have a CF trunk and my roof painted black, also. It sounds cheesy, but I've seen it done and it looks great.

The only cheap part I have to upgrade is my header. My XS exhaust was replaced with Apexi WS2. The header has never done me wrong. I don't think I'm going to replace it, but possibly ceramic coat it.

pretty clean zach.....

a couple more comments.

dont get me wrong, theres nothing bad about the parts you used, but if your the kind of person to let good enough be, you would have left your car stock. theres always a better part to be had.

think hard about putting on a light flywheel. one missed shift could send valve spring retainers through your valve cover. your motor doesnt have much wiggle room in case of an over rev, and light flywheels make a small over rev into a big one. just a warning.

keep your sway bars proportional to stock, then add a bit of stiffness in the rear bar. that is, if stock are both solid or both hollow, dont add one solid and one hollow. beef up the rear sway bar stiffness either from an adjustable bar or a couple mm fatter bar. again though, beware of the consequences. if your rear end starts to step out, dont be a dumbass and let off the gas. thats how cars hit walls or other cars. in order to keep the rear end behind you in a FWD car, give more gas.

get some track time under your belt. even on a daily driver, it can help you tune your car so if you do get into an emergency maneuver situation on the street, you know how your car is gonna react, and what you can do to avoid bad things hitting you.

pretty clean zach.....

Thanks!! I've come along way, eh? :)

dont get me wrong, theres nothing bad about the parts you used, but if your the kind of person to let good enough be, you would have left your car stock. theres always a better part to be had.

I understand what you mean, completely. I didn't take any offense to it. I'm just saying that I think the only questionable part in my arsenal is my XS header, which I really do stand by 100%. The rotors are low quality too, but I have the replacements for them sitting about 5 feet from me(400 dollar slotted stop techs). I just don't see a point in modding so early into winter, you know? The XS exhaust was shit, so I got rid of it. It's not even like I can't afford a Nismo header, or better replacement, but I really am satisfied with the XS header. I know a lot of people on b15sentra.net and myspecv.com that haven't had any problems what so ever, with the XS header. Other than that, I really do try to get everything top of the line. After a few bad experiences I've had (XS exhaust/rotors/etc) I really do believe that you get what you pay for.

I do appreciate your compliments, though, because I value this forums opinion. I know that if I had a really riced out car, I would hear it here, first.. :wink:

I think I'm going to take the "Spec V" vinyl off of the brow of my car, this weekend, also. What do you guys think?

i think........ YOU NEED NAAAWS!

hey im working on a manual over-ride for the secondary runners, it should allow for a manual override of the ecu signal letting you apply the secondaries under WOT before 5k...... should give more flexibillity in certain situations where the motor is under load but your 200-1k rpm out of powerband

SAFC NEO lets you open up the secondaries, early. That's one of the things I'm going to play around with when I have the car tuned. I wouldn't think it would be anything but beneficial.

I've got a manual override for you... zip ties.. :P

I took the "Spec V" off of the front of the car, and the UR sticker. Thinking about going black with the calipers, when I get my new brake set up on.

iirc, they did a dyno showing that opening the butterfly valves earlier did nothing. if anything, it would lower low end tq, and raise hp just a tad. you would be better off just leaving it how it is. search for secondary runner on b15sentra. you'll see what im talking about. i cant find it at the moment.

but if it does help ya, power to ya. just get it dyno'd and see if it helps at all.

one thing im confused about though, is why nismo cams? the jwt's are more agressive, and cheaper on the wallet brand new. and jwt makes both sets of cams, the nismo ones and their own from new nissan blanks.

oh, and before i forget, grab the wrp intake manifold spacer while you are at it. gives about 7whp. you even posted in it :).

http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=146688&highlight=wrp+spacer

and grab a throttle body spacer. gives about 8whp.

http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=134693&page=3&highlight=intake+spacer

and like i said on that forum as well. i like it. nice and clean. simple, but effective.

i understand how it would affect your low end torque, but i would only use it for those few times im sure zach might be able to relate here, where if you donwshift to one gear and it puts you at 6100 so the furthest you can downshift puts you at 4300 rpm or so and you have that couple seconds of lag before you go back into power, i believe opening the runners under load 5-600rpm sooner would eliminate that lag

ive driven a spec before. i know exactly what you are talking about. hell, i might get rid of the auto se for one. and im highly debating it. but back on topic, would cams get rid of that 'lag' so to speak? i havent driven a cam'd spec so i cant answer that question. i know that the secoing thendaries are opened by a vacumn, so hm.

so you are saying when you are going on a 1/4 run or w/e, after you get them opened in 1st, you'd keep them open until you stopped basically? hmm...that actually doesnt sound like a bad idea.

about those secondary butterflies...if your gonna do anything, take em out. all they are is to help off the line part throttle torque, yknow for normal people getting groceries and shit. remove all the stuff, cut the butterfly shaft thingy by each runner, and pull all the stuff out. then jb weld the holes and sand it smooth. ive done it before and its not hard. plus the less restriction in the intake tracts the better.

http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=146688&highlight=wrp+spacer

and grab a throttle body spacer. gives about 8whp.

http://www.b15sentra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=134693&page=3&highlight=intake+spacer

and like i said on that forum as well. i like it. nice and clean. simple, but effective.

I do have the IMS + TBS + TB ported. I did that about 2 months ago. I just need to fix a leak, where I didn't take the old IM studs out and didn't put the new ones in.



I'm keeping the butterflies in. It's really not worth the loss in low end TQ, since mine is a daily driver, unless boosted.

Throttle body spacer #'s: 2-3whp
Intake manifold spacer #'s: 7whp
TB ported #'s: 1whp...?

BTW

hmm. i took that from dyno graphs. o well. guess your almost done being bolted. want ya to take it to the track already :).

I still have plenty more bolting to do. :)
Planning on taking it close or over 200 whp, by the end of next summer.

http://myspecv.com/f/t26304-expectations-vs-reality.html

ive driven a spec before. i know exactly what you are talking about. hell, i might get rid of the auto se for one. and im highly debating it. but back on topic, would cams get rid of that 'lag' so to speak? i havent driven a cam'd spec so i cant answer that question. i know that the secoing thendaries are opened by a vacumn, so hm.

so you are saying when you are going on a 1/4 run or w/e, after you get them opened in 1st, you'd keep them open until you stopped basically? hmm...that actually doesnt sound like a bad idea.


nah for a drag it wouldnt really matter as you vaporize first almost instantly and from then on you stay above 5k, it would benefit you more on a track with some turns that put you in-between gears or highway/city situations where youre in the same predicament, that little bit of early may either save your life or help you snag that honda from a roll doing 47-54mph, or 73-78mph, those are the speeds i find myself in between gears at usually the former speeds are too high for second but hitting third puts you out of power, the latter has third gear wrapping out around 76 so i usually hit 4th instead and again, same loss of power.......

Im not too sure of your comment about cams, if your profile increased either torque or power between 4200 and 5000 it would definitely benefit you so long as you actually had an overall gain, and not just a gain in horsepower but a loss in torque, as torque still matters below 5250, which by the way is why i hate my motor, only 1k of powermaking.... BOOOO

the trick i would use for the butterflies would be to put a "y" peice on the vacuum actuator using one of the two end side to connect the vaccum line the motor uses already, the other side would be used to connect a vacuum solenoid, which would get its vaccum from a vacuum resevoir that is also attached to the intake to build vaccum in it, you would wire the solenoid to a switch inside the vehicle, and at the press of a button the solenoid would use the vaccum from the resevoir to pull the secondaries open, after 5k let go of the switch and the motor takes over, sound reasonable?

Im not too sure of your comment about cams, if your profile increased either torque or power between 4200 and 5000 it would definitely benefit you so long as you actually had an overall gain, and not just a gain in horsepower but a loss in torque, as torque still matters below 5250, which by the way is why i hate my motor, only 1k of powermaking.... BOOOO


then get rid of your horrible stroke ratio :). is there anyone that actually did the technosquare reflash, with jwt cams and springs? that might be something to look into. that is something that i would definetly look into. i would hate having a 6100 rev limit.

i like your idea for the vacumn 'switch', but wouldn't it take away metered air causing a rough idle? i mean, its not exactly the best idea to make a vacumn in the intake that is far from the actuator. where is the 'actuator' on the engine in the first place? im not too familiar with the qr engine.

it doesnt have one youd have to pick one up and install it, it wouldnt cause any unmetered air problems so long as the resevoir had a check valve to hold vacuum in it

then get rid of your horrible stroke ratio :) that might be something to look into. that is something that i would definetly look into. i would hate having a 6100 rev limit.

Rev limit = 6200, but I have been over 6200, many times, to around 6400, without shutdown.

ive been to over 8k....... lucky it still runs....lol

ive been to over 8k....... lucky it still runs....lol

No kidding!

I might have a little over 2-2500 dollars by the time I get my tax returns back. I'm debating on just holding out for the treadstone turbo kit - 3100. I have heard amazing things about it. I would only boost from 5-7 PSI. That's good for about 275whp.

no lie, there is that piston swap too, id like that a bit more with a higher rev limit, could be fun

The piston swap made 237whp. It just sounds like a time bomb to me, though.

me too. ive never heard of anyone successfully changing the rod ratio. you could get custom stock type pistons with the wrist pin moved in the piston, but the change would be so small that it would not really even be worth it.

If was successful. Will has 2 cars running with the set up. It's just pricey, and you have to monitor it like an infant.

BTW, just ordered a spare IM, today. Going to get it ported/polished, and ceramic coated. Really trying hard to break the 200 whp barrier!

it wouldnt really be changing anything but compression ratio. It uses the 07 crank which is fully counterbalanced, and the 07 rods which are stronger. It then changes the qr25 pistons to the qr20 variant pistons which is supposed to bump the compression into the 12.2:1 area. This enables you to ditch the balance shafts safely but for me id want to make sure my knock sensor was working properly, and maybe even find a way to put a second one in there somewhere. The only bad thing i see is the need for premium constantly, if thats even enough, you might have to add an octane booster to every tank.

Talk to will on myspecv.com/b15sentra, he can tell you everything you need. He's got 2 specs running with this set up, right now. 237 whp.

i want naaaawwzzzzz for christmas......

I was thinking about it too, but I might just hold out for boost.

I dunno... a safe 50 or 75 shot would definitely take the edge off.

i need teh clutch first.....

+1, mine is seriously almost dead. The engagement point hits when my pedal is almost all the way released.