What to look for when buying a z32

For starters, hi folks. This looks like a great forum.
Right, last year i was at a car show, And between breaks, sports cars would come into a car park and diff and do burn-out (legally). But at the end of it, these 3 stunt drivers came in together in twin turbo ZX300s, and the show they put on was awesome. At the time i said i wanted one, and now i want to buy one now.
I've owned fast cars before, but nothing to the sheer power of those Z32s.
I wont jump in head first, i'd like to do a bit of home work about one. I've done a bit of home work, i know they are cheap enough to buy, and i know they are costly to keep and mentain. That wont be a problem as i wont be using it as my main car. I'll only us it the odd weekend or to show it off (as you do). It will be my pride and joy.
I am planing on buying a manual ZX300 TT 92-95 year old.
I know the basic about an ordinary car, but when it comes to bolt-ons and aftermarket parts, it gets a bit comfusing. I would like to buy the car with all the aftermarket parts already on it (cheaper), but the seller could tell me this is on it, and that is on it, ie, like a sports clutch, things i cant see. I would be thinking 'why would this fella be selling this car?'.
I would like the Z32 to put out around 400-450 bph, i think you call that a stage 3.
OK now the main question, what should i look for when buying one of these cars?
As i said, i know the basics, ie. no smoke from exaust, no rattles or strange noises from the engine, oil pressure ect.
I especially need to know about these cars ,
where do i look for rust?
is the anything that wears on the car that is really expensive? i dont mean tyres lol.
I know a wee bit about body work.
I think thats it, all help will be welcome, even the slightest wee bit.
And thank you

Well let me welcome you here to the Past Z forums.

Ok good news is the Z32 doesnt rust that much but look around the T-Tops and the Hatch.

As for parts, thats a hot topic on the Z32.... lots of debat over whats best and whats fastest. So thats a matter of personal research.

I suggest if you can find a Z32 without the aftermarket treatment. Its not cheaper reverse engineering something someone else has destroied trying to rice out a Z. Also look for a 93-95, the fuel injectors are the reason there. Next If you can find one dont plan on drifting it for a while. You will have to figure out if you can deal with the HICAS.

The horsepower goals are easy Stage 2/3 goals. I have seen it done for less than 2K. But plan on paying close to 9-12K for a good condition low milage mildly, or unmodified 93-95 Z32 TT....

By the way its a 300ZX not ZX300.... I think thats a motorcycle.

But goodluck and ask any other questions I am sure one of us will answer it. Or act like we know what we are talking about. LOL

And welcome to the Z-addiction!

Hodo thanks for the welcome and thank you for the reply, for a while there i thought i did some thing wrong, cause no one was replying to me lol, Maybe it was because i called it the ZX300 lol

I was looking at a (cheapish) '300ZX' yesterday and (as you said) the T-Top was leaking, and there was a smell of damp in the car, other than that the looked and sounded good the bodywork seen a bit of paint (but was painted well), i stayed clear of it, cause i'd say wheres theres damp, theres rust. I'm looking for a car which i dont want to repair or do anything to (except aftermarket parts)

I was going for a later model anyway, but i didnt have the injectors as the reason, thank you. Does the 93-95 injectors differ than the earlier model?

I'm from the UK, and i would be able to pick up a good clean model for in and around 5K sterling (around 10k dolars) if i took my time and shopped around. But the (aftermarket) parts are more expensive over here, you say around $2,000 over there, well it would be £2,000 here, i'd be happy enough with that! If it cost 6-7K for the car that i want i'd be happy. Anyway, when i do venture to buy aftermarket parts, i'll ask you's what you's think first.

I am also planning to put a body kit on, but i see most of the members here keep the bodywork original, why?

Thats another good point, i've never drove a car with HICAS before, i'll take it easy. When we're on the subject, (this might be a silly question), do the rear wheels steer when diffing?

I'd just like to know what to stay clear off?

thanks.

Ok the Hicas system steers whenever the car is going faster than 15MPH ( I think been a while) Its not alot but its enough to screw you up if you dont expect it. The car really wasnt ment to go sideways. But dont worry the HICAS is ONLY on the Twin Turbo model.

So to answer your question. Yes the rear wheels turn if you are Drifting. Depending on the speed you are going they will turn either with the steering wheel, in otherwords the same direction you turn the wheel. OR they will turn opposite of the steering wheel. The rear wheels dont move much, I think its a total of 3Degrees of movement, but thats enough to mess up a slide and put you into a wall. But you wont have that problem if you dont drift. The HICAS does help with the menueverablity of the car a decent amount. But alot of people just get eliminator kits to get rid of it. I suggest when you find a Z32 if its a TT keep the HICAS for a while see if you like it, if you like it keep it, if you dont remove it. But once its out its a bit harder to put back in.