Decal help! (I hope)

Crap.

These decals suck. :frown:

Basically the large red decal that takes up the front of the car looks like crap. And I'd heard this kit was difficult, in that respect. It has to cover a large, rounded portion of the front end, and then at the seams, it meets the decals that cover the FENDERS, and you have to make it look seamless.

I used Micro-sol to get the decals to lay down, but the Micro-sol has caused a bunch of tiny wrinkles now! Plus there's a small torn area, which I could've touched up with paint, but still...

So I tried a few more applications, but no good. You can't even see the wrinkles from a foot or so away, but they're still not very nice to look at. Anyone have any suggestions? Worst case I can scrape it off and start over entirely, but I'd need a new decal sheet--and if I do that, I think I'll make some masks and spraypaint the red part on. Any ideas for now though? :crying:

http://www.tigersdenhobbies.com/gallery/steves%20zexel%20gtr/steve_zexelgtr_wip2.jpg

http://www.tigersdenhobbies.com/gallery/steves%20zexel%20gtr/steve_zexelgtr_wip3.jpg

ouch are they dry yet i used microsol before with great results and wrinkling is part of the setting process. i since then switched to solvaset which gives off the same wrinklin when drying.

if you want a flawless look i would do the ol mask and paint

If the decals are still wet, this is part of what Micro-sol and other decal solvents do. Don't touch it, damnit! I've ruined a few decal jobs on their way to goodness by messing around in them during the Micro-sol stage.

If they are dry, you're screwed. Next time, cut that decal up into 3-5 smaller decals and apply it that way. Start with the bit on the centerline of the car and go from there, one part on the left then the matching part on the right, to keep it lined up, until you get the whole front done. Do the same for all large decalled areas.

I guarantee you that if this is over your head, masking it will be too; and honestly, I think you'd have better luck with the decals than paint. You should have good luck getting decals from Tamiya, this isn't an old kit and they've got good support (though, it costs).

No, this has dried.

And I don't really thinking masking off a paint job is over my head, I've done many times before. :rolleyes:

I just had used Micro-sol on other Tamiya decals in the past, so I didn't know I had anything to worry about with this one. :frown:

From far away it doesn't look too bad, best bet would be to buy new decals. If you go with the painting route, then you should use the decals as stencils. Then mask it off and paint. What i did on one build was use the decal paper (decal off) as a template for masking tape. I have the xavani decal sheet if you want to build that livery, good luck.

Sometime I would use a moist, warm q-tip to help delicate decals go around curves. I would soak the q-tip in warm water, then heat it some more by running it over one of those electric coffee cup warmer. This will get the cotton steaming hot. Some people use a hair dryer to get decals to go down in tough curves but I always fear this would dry the decals and make them brittle. Using the warm q-tip would give it some heat while keeping it moist and pliable.

There's nothing wrong with the decals; you just used too much Micro-sol. Like nakaadds says, a moistened q-tip works like a charm. (Although I don't use a heated one, I can see that that'll work, too) The water in the q-tip will dilute Micro-sol, so you can control its strength. Then, gently roll the q-tip over a decal to lay it down flat. The key is to take time.

Tigger I have a set almost complete to send, free. I done the '01 Pennzoil conversion time ago. May be few things are missed.

Tigger I have a set almost complete to send, free. I done the '01 Pennzoil conversion time ago. May be few things are missed.

Thanks dude I will keep that in mind, but I'll try this q-tip trick first! Thanks guys.

Thanks dude I will keep that in mind, but I'll try this q-tip trick first! Thanks guys.
John, if you save that with a Q-tip, I'll stand you a beer and send it first class to Canada! :)

Thanks dude I will keep that in mind, but I'll try this q-tip trick first! Thanks guys.

The q-tip trick is for your next decal, I don't think it's going to save the one on the hood.

:rolleyes:

For such a talented modeler you sure do sweat the basics :rolleyes:

It's a simple mistake using a bunch of micro-sol when I shouldn't have, or on decals that I shouldn't have used it on. I don't think it's the end of my modeling "career."

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

I would start over if you can get new decals. Even Micro-sol is too strong for Tamiya's more recent kits. Use hot damp cloth or tissue pressed over the decal for a second or two and it will set the decal instantly and make it laydown without any of the wrinkling, use a hot damp Q-Tip for the smaller areas. Only use solvent on decals where they wrap under a fender or down in door and panel lines(I use a 10/0 brush for that) Checkout my thread on a Ford Escort WRC all the blue areas are decal.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=766219

So I got gionc's decals, and I'm about to attempt it a second time. Is it safe to say that Tamiya clearcoat will be safe over these decals?

Is it safe to say that Tamiya clearcoat will be safe over these decals?

NOT !!! LOL It may be safe if you're very careful with thiny layers, but since I have not more spares would be much more safe if you use something other like a good 2K or some Gunze ;) :2cents:

Is it safe to say that Tamiya clearcoat will be safe over these decals?

Simply said: No! It depends on time, weather, rain, moisture and maybe the length of your hair, if you ask me. With TS-13 you sure never know, where it takes you on decals. If you depend on TS-13 make sure to apply just moist and very firm coats and try to get the shine making a decent job on polishing (that might be true for all the clears out there).

Well there we go then. :p

I think I'll test some of the old decals under a Dupli-color clear and see what happens...

Well there we go then. :p

I think I'll test some of the old decals under a Dupli-color clear and see what happens...

That´s the way to go, I suppose.

I wouldn't use micro-sol at all on your next try. Don't use it, don't open it, don't have it in the room. Try a milder solution like Mr Mark Softer or Micro-Set, and use it as sparingly as possible. Sometimes Micro-Sol will completely destroy decals, even if it's worked OK before with decals from that same manufacturer.

It shouldn't be hard to get the new set of decals to work perfectly. But it will take time, patience, and skill- and chemicals are a poor substitute for these. Use warm water, and if you need to soften the decals a bit more to help them conform try a warm hairdryer and/or the Qtip idea. But I'd be willing to bet that more Micro-Sol will have you looking for more decals yet again.

You can absolutely destroy the decals with TS-13- but you can also do it with most clear lacquers. On the other hand, TS-13 can be put on perfectly over decals. Again, it's just time, patience and skill.

I think I'll test some of the old decals under a Dupli-color clear and see what happens...

I use duplicolor almsot exclusively, and if it's put on too fast it will eat decals as well. Sometimes you'll get lucky and the decals will settle down once the clear dries, but not always. I've learned the hard way, unfortunately. Go light for a few coats... :2cents:

I used Dupli-color almost exclusively as well, but I've yet to try it over Tamiya decals. I'll test first.

And no, I won't touch the Micro-Sol. :p

I would highly recommend Gunze clear. It's acrylic, so it won't eat decals, and easy to polish.

I would highly recommend Gunze clear. It's acrylic, so it won't eat decals, and easy to polish.
:iagree:

I had problems with decals-clear only once,it was when I sprayed lacquer on my acrylic painted Xanavi skyline...
And then I thought: That's why everyone says TS-13 is dangerous!!

Silly me...:rolleyes:

I used that bottle 'till the end,and then switched to Gunze Clears.

Well there we go then. :p

I think I'll test some of the old decals under a Dupli-color clear and see what happens...

Duplicolor laquer clear is even stronger than Tamiya's. I tried applying it over Tamiya laquer... crazed the hell out of it. :frown:

Well, no matter what type of clear coat you use, if you wet a water-slide decal, the chance of destroying it is very high, because you're technically moistening what's supposed to stay dry.

I never had any problem with Tamiya's clear over any brand of decal, but I never wet-coat either.

Whatever you use, make sure each blast of spray lasts no more than 1 second, with a quick, wide sideway motion. When one surface is done, do the other side, and continue (like left side, right side, front bumper, rear bumper, hood, trunk and roof). Let the paint dry for a few minutes, and repeat the process. As long as you slowly build up the clear coat, TS13 (or any brand of clear) will never destroy decals. The down side of this method is that you waste a lot of clear paint, and one can of TS-13 will probably lasts for only one or two cars!

I would highly recommend Gunze clear. It's acrylic, so it won't eat decals, and easy to polish.
Gunze Mr Top Coat clear NOT Gunze Mr Super Clear

Gunze Mr Top Coat clear NOT Gunze Mr Super Clear

Yup!

But I think that Super Clear is less agressive than TS13!

I sprayed some nice few coats of it (I NEVER wet coat) over a lacquer painted body and decaled...It wasn't a racing car scheme,but on the other hand,I experienced problems with TS-13 even in those small decals that go in the rear boot. Super clear reacted well,I had no problems,and the body was smoooth. :sunglasse
And,just for the hell of it,primered a spoon,sprayed some ACRYLIC paint on it...Dried for a few days,and then I sprayed Super Clear. No weird reactions at all! :eek7:

Yes,the paint smells weird (and strong),but I from all the few tests I did until now,no problems...Maybe I was just lucky! :cwm27:

Gunze Mr Top Coat clear NOT Gunze Mr Super Clear

Both work as fine as they should...It depends on the way you spray the clear on. If you work with fine and fast coats (NO WET COATS) - as stated before - both products are fine - at least my DTM-CLK was fine with the Super Clear. Took me several hours and up to 5 mist coats to get it done.

Both work as fine as they should...It depends on the way you spray the clear on. If you work with fine and fast coats (NO WET COATS) - as stated before - both products are fine - at least my DTM-CLK was fine with the Super Clear. Took me several hours and up to 5 mist coats to get it done.
I really shouldn't get involved in clear discussions :)

Robert, I just wanted to make the point/give warning that not all Gunze clears are the same.

The difference is that you CAN put down a wet coat of Mr Top Coat and it WON'T dissolve your decals. A wet coat of Super Clear WILL (in all probability) dissolve your decals. They are different kinds of clear IIRC. GSC is about the same as TS13 and GTC is closer to X22 nature (I speak figuratively and not literally ;) ).

Of course you are right that it's always best to mist coat many times, that any clear can be used etc etc blah blah blah :thumbsup:

I really shouldn't get involved in clear discussions :)

Oh yes, you should.

Robert, I just wanted to make the point/give warning that not all Gunze clears are the same.

I know, this just seems to be a topic, where I can add something valuable from my modeling experience. Doesn´t happen too much, so I took this opprotunity to - ahem - show off a little.

The difference is that you CAN put down a wet coat of Mr Top Coat and it WON'T dissolve your decals. A wet coat of Super Clear WILL (in all probability) dissolve your decals. They are different kinds of clear IIRC. GSC is about the same as TS13 and GTC is closer to X22 nature

This is absolutely true.

Well is it the fact that it' an acrylic clear that makes it safe on decals?

I have some Pro Form Acrylic clearcoat...

Not really.

Might help: http://www.craigcentral.com/models/paint.asp

Duplicolor laquer clear is even stronger than Tamiya's. I tried applying it over Tamiya laquer... crazed the hell out of it. :frown:

Sorry to say, you applied it wrong. I use it on almost everyone of my builds and have never had a problem. Refine your technique; it works great.

Well is it the fact that it' an acrylic clear that makes it safe on decals?

I have some Pro Form Acrylic clearcoat...

I used Krylon Acrylic and found it lifted the decals. I'm guessing its the solvent/propellant causing the reaction more than the clear. If you have an airbrush, try X22. I've used it on old models with delicate decals. I don't usually have the patience for it, but if you're gunshy give it a try.