Push button Ignition

When I bought my metro, the guy told me the ignition switch was broke so he pulled out the white circular switch behind the ignition and let it lay on top of the steering column. Resulting in having to start the car with a screw driver :lol: As if the metro doesn't get enuf laughs! Sooooo..... I'd like to install a push button start on it. Because of the cost of a new ignition. There is like 5-6 wires going into the white ignition switch. Is it as simple as cutting the wires (finding out what goes where) and installing a toggle switch to power the ignition, then an engine start push button?? No I'm not worried about anyone stealing my 400 dollar metro.

Haha, I love this kind of stuff. You would at least have to install a switch and a push button. Post your year engine and transmission and we'll see if we can't make a one-off wiring plan for ya.

-MechanicMatt

lol. I have a 93 xfi. 3 cyl. 5 spd. Here's what I'm thinking, but I don't know how the wires are color coded.http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/C:\Documents and Settings\Stephanie\My Documents\pushbutton.JPG

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/8093/pushbuttonyo4.th.jpg (http://img81.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pushbuttonyo4.jpg)

I did some probing with a volt meter at work for ya. I'll post back later tonight with a game plan (need to get the chart I drew up from work). What color are the wires coming off the switch, to be clear?

-MechanicMatt

Okay. this is what I got. 7 wires + 2 small green wires that run to a little black switch w/ a white button. Who knows what thats to.

1 white w/ green stripe
1 black w/ yellow stripe
1 yellow w/ black stripe
1 blue
1 black w/ blue stripe
2 small black wires

wouldn't it just be easier to replace the broken/bad lock part of the switch. car is a lot less likely to get stolen too if it has a steering wheel lock and takes a key to start it. its not hard to take the lock part off and replace it with another one

Well if you want to be a reasonable ronnie about it, but seriously, switches are cool.

I need to make a wire chart for an earlier model. I'll draw one up at work tomorrow.

-MechanicMatt

Matt,
Where'd ya go? I'm waiting on ya. Once I know how to do this I'm going to document it with pics to post on here.

Matt,
Where'd ya go? I'm waiting on ya. Once I know how to do this I'm going to document it with pics to post on here.

Dwendt, I'm sorry I ghosted out on you. I probed a later model whose wires didn't have the same color coordination as you posted. It was just tonight that I found time to probe my personal metro ('93 5-spd 3cyl).

I've whipped up some home-brewed instructions. I just want to make sure I have my information straight before I publish it here on the forum. I'll post here tomorrow evening.

-MechanicMatt

I'm with Crvett69. You should be able to find a working ignition switch at the Pull & Save cheap enough, I would think. It's simpler and better than hashing your wiring up.

It should be acknowledged that the practical approach to your problem would be to install a functioning ignition switch. With that said...

I've learned enough to be dangerous with my meter.

The breakdown goes like this:

The white/green wire is your 12v feed from the Ignition fuse. It is always hot.

Ignition Positions and Associated Live Wires
OFF: All wires are dead except for your feed (W/G)
ACC: W/G + Blue
ON: W/G + Yellow/Black + Black/Blue + Blue
START: W/G + Black/Yellow + Black/Blue

Quick Reference Chart: "X" denotes live wire

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j64/isc20/white.jpg

I'm not sure what the two little black wires in the center are for, and I am unable to find relavent wiring diagrams. Anybody have insight?
In any case, these two wires were dead regardless of switch position.

So what'll you need is equivelent gauge primary wire (looks like 10AWG), Two on/off switches and a push-button switch (normally off / push on) all rated for 30 AMPS @ 12VDC.

Here is a rough visual aid of what the wiring should look like:

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j64/isc20/Untitled-1.jpg

With the two switches and start button wired in parallel with the white/green wire.

When you start the car, turn on the ACC switch, then the ON switch, then push the start button to start the car (release after engine is running). When you shut the car off, turn off the ON switch, then the ACC switch.

Call me crazy but I think this might work. :icon16:

Disclaimer: It must be understood and accepted that this is an experimental tampering of the factory ignition system. I would not perform this procedure professionally for a customer for reaons of liability! I will not be held responsible for property damage or personal injury.

Having covered my rump, insulate your connections/splices well, disconnect the battery while hacking the system, keep a fire extinguisher handy, and be prepared to disconnect the battery for the first few trial runs.

Goodluck and post back!!

-MechanicMatt

PS: Anyone have some information about these little black wires?
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j64/isc20/This.jpg

PPS: The two black wires and switch on the key side of the ignition are for the "chime" to tell you that you have a key in the ignition.

I am currently doing the same thing to my 94 geo metro and am having the same problem with the two black wires. Did you ever find out what they are for and what to hook them up to?

I think what you should do is go down to Home Depot, or Lowe's and pick up a regular house type light switch and attach it to your dash. Run one wire from your coil and the other to your battery and connect them to your light switch. Then install a push button in the dash, for the starter. My friend Bubba, in Alabama taught me this trick:iceslolan :iceslolan :iceslolan :iceslolan