Does anyone have write up on how to replace lower control arms?

I will be replacing my lower control arms with new ones that come complete with ball joint and bushings. I will also be replacing the stablizer links. It would be nice to have a write up that I could follow, plus the tq specs..... thank you
Scott

Likewise. I dont think replacement is gonna be hard, just knowing the proper torque specs for everything.

ttt

I'm assuming you have a '01 GTP since it wasn't mentioned in this post. This is an old one I wrote up a few years ago off the top of my head. I'll have to double check the torque figures and post later.


The first step is get the respective side to be worked on jacked up. Be sure to use a jackstand, if possible or good floor jack to hold the side up at a decent elevation. Remove wheel.

Un-snap the plastic retainers that hold the wheel sensor wiring harness to the lower control arm.

Then undo the nut and bolt holding the sway bar link bushings on and remove bolt from the link bushings. Next remove the cotter pin securing the nut on the ball joint and then remove ball joint nut. At this point take a hammer to the old control arm around the area of the ball joint and carefully beat downwards. The object is to get the ball joint separated from the steering knuckle. Once you get that off then remove the vertical and horizontal control arms bolts fastening the control arm to the sub-frame assembly. You'll have to rock one side of the control arm and then pull out (horizontal bushing). The control arm should be off in your hands at this point.

Assembly is reverse of above.

Other helpful hints:

Use PB Blaster or WD40 all bolts that need to be removed above first and let sit for a few hours.

You can rent a ball joint separator tool.

And some people rent strut coil spring compressors and tighten down to relieve the downward tension of the strut on the steering knuckle and hub. This may not be necessary.

Once replacement control arm is on it may be hard to get the ball joint to align with the hole in the steering knuckle. You may need a friend to help pull up on the control arm to help align it or you can use a small hydraulic jack to apply upward pressure.

BTW - Don't forget to have alignment checked afterwards but it may be OK if no other parts were replaced like a tie rod, strut, etc.

Thanks Bnaylor!!! How come this procedure isnt in the tips subforum yet? Or did I just miss it?

Thanks Bnaylor!!! How come this procedure isnt in the tips subforum yet? Or did I just miss it?

Hi Tblake,

We have alot of stuff not in the Tips & Maintenance forum. But we'll get to it sooner or later along with a master index. It takes time and I have been too busy with projects at work on and off since the summer. Plus I have to Moderate all of Oldsmobile & Buick. :rolleyes:

On most tech procedures we would prefer pics but I haven't done any lower control arm jobs since I got the new Sony CyberShot camera. Hint? :lol:

yeah, i understand. Thanks for the writeup anywyas. I might do mine in the spring myself, and If I do, I'll snap some pictures, But i may have them done in a shop sooner than that so I dont have to work in the cold.

Thank you Bnaylor for the write up, I might be replacing the control arms this weekend.....Bnaylor do you have the tq specs

Bnaylor do you have the tq specs

You're welcome. Here is what I have. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

SUSPENSION - FRONT:

*Tighten the nut in order to align the cotter pin hole with the front lower
control arm ball stud. Do NOT loosen the nut in order to align the cotter pin
hole.

* Front Lower Control Arm Ball Stud to Steering Knuckle Nut
15 lb ft + 120 degrees
Front Lower Control Ball Stud Nuts to Control Arm (New Ball Joint)
50 lb ft
Front Lower Control Arm Mounting Nuts
77 lb ft
Front Stabilizer Shaft Bracket Bolt
35 lb ft
Front Stabilizer Shaft Link Nut
17 lb ft

************
Front Suspension Strut to Body Mount Nuts
24 lb ft
Front Suspension Strut Mount Nut
52 lb ft
Front Suspension Strut to Steering Knuckle Bolts
90 lb ft