My paint just won't dry

I've switched from Tamiya rattle can lacquer to dupont basecoat and even after I put it in the dehydrator the damn thing stays tacky :cya:

I'm using a painters pride reducer that my buddy at the paint store told me to get. I don't know if it only applies to real cars or what?!

I've read in the threads about getting something called UR40 to use as a reducer.

I like the results with the dupont basecoat...... what do you guys think?

I've switched from Tamiya rattle can lacquer to dupont basecoat and even after I put it in the dehydrator the damn thing stays tacky :cya:

I'm using a painters pride reducer that my buddy at the paint store told me to get. I don't know if it only applies to real cars or what?!

I've read in the threads about getting something called UR40 to use as a reducer.

I like the results with the dupont basecoat...... what do you guys think?
Try not using any reducer, which I'm guessing is a retarder. Tamiya paints really don't need much effort to get down well, maybe a tad of their original lacquer thinner, but that's it.
Rule of thumb, use the paint company's original thinner. That way you won't have incompatiblilty problems.
Tamiya paint dry for me within 12 hours in my dehydrator, even if its a running wet coat.

yeah, i've had really good luck with tamiya paints too, the problem is i had to match an original color of a 71' thunderbird and i can't do that with tamiya.
MCW is great but I don't have the time or patience to wait to get it ordered.

MCW only takes written orders, no phone orders which is a pain in the a**

Though I do like MCW paints alot~ I'm gonna leave it in the dehydrator tonight and see what happens.
Good advice Cyber, i appreciat it man

Something is very wrong alright. I mix one part Dupont Chromabase with one part lacquer thinner or BASF UR40 (as recommended by my automotive paint store) and it dries to the touch in about five minutes. Decanted Tamiya takes much longer to dry and always stays a bit soft.

Chromabase is way too thick to be sprayed un-thinned.

By the way, there are five Painters Pride reducers, and even more thinners. You can download their PDF at www.painterspride.com/pp/productcatalog.pdf (http://%3Cfont%20size=%22-1%22%3Ewww.painterspride.com/pp/productcatalog.pdf%3C/font%3E) and check it out. Seems like several of the thinners and reducers would work with Chromabase - or at least not cause drying problems. It's possible you have the wrong one.

I think we'll be curious to learn what works for you.

Diddy

Diddy.....I have my Chromaclear mixture down pretty well, it's the dupont basecoat that I'm new to using that is giving me a problem. I mixed it with a product called "painters pride basecoat reducer"

I made a fatal error in regards to metallics too, thank God I only messed up the hood. I used Tamiya compound prior to clearing it and it rubbed down to the silver. I obviously didn't read the threads until after i screwed it up......I stripped it and started over.

Diddy, what can you tell me about dupont basecoat procedures

Something is very wrong alright. I mix one part Dupont Chromabase with one part lacquer thinner or BASF UR40 (as recommended by my automotive paint store) and it dries to the touch in about five minutes. Decanted Tamiya takes much longer to dry and always stays a bit soft.

Chromabase is way too thick to be sprayed un-thinned.

I think we'll be curious to learn what works for you.

Diddy
What are you thinning the Tamiya lacquer with?

What are you thinning the Tamiya lacquer with?

I thin both Tamiya and Dupont Chromabase BC with lacquer thinner. The Tamiya is not extremely soft; it's just not as diamond-hard as the Dupont. The Tamiya I'm talking about is decanted rattle-can synthetic lacquer, their TS line.

There seems to have been a mis-reading of Sixx's OP. His drying problem is with Dupont, not Tamiya.

Diddy

Diddy, what can you tell me about dupont basecoat procedures
What I said was with regard to basecoat, e.g., Dupont Chromabase BC. That's about it; I don't know what else to tell you, except not to spray it over enamel!

Dupont Chromabase, mixed 1-1 with either lacquer thinner or UR40, should dry very fast and very hard.

Sorry, but I don't know anything about metallics. I only spray solid colors.

Diddy

thanks Didy for the advice, i'm gonna try mixing it with the laquer thinner and let you know how it comes out! I didn't know that the clear and basecoat were to be mixed the same

I thin both Tamiya and Dupont Chromabase BC with lacquer thinner. The Tamiya is not extremely soft; it's just not as diamond-hard as the Dupont. The Tamiya I'm talking about is decanted rattle-can synthetic lacquer, their TS line.

There seems to have been a mis-reading of Sixx's OP. His drying problem is with Dupont, not Tamiya.

Diddy
My bad... too late into the night for me to think right.. sorry 'bout that.:banghead:

thanks Didy for the advice, i'm gonna try mixing it with the laquer thinner and let you know how it comes out! I didn't know that the clear and basecoat were to be mixed the same

Some say it's a town, some call it a city, but the name of the place is Diddy wah diddy. Uh Diddy wah! (old jump blues song)

I use Model Master Buffing Metallizer as a "thickness standard." It's very thin stuff, but it sprays beautifully. I think most orange peel problems are caused by paint that's too thick. When in doubt, I add more thinner! BUT... I've been told by two automotive paint shop owners that two-part urethane clear coat "breaks down" when you thin it... at all.

Has that been your experience?

Do you use Dupont two-part clear? What ratio of clear coat to hardener to thinner do you use?

Diddy

Right on to the blues.........fat possum records, R.L burnside, a little Junior Kimbrough..........I can dig it

yeah, I'm using Dupont 2 part clear, mixed 4:1 clear to hardner and I thin it about 200%

the clear is hardening allright, it's the damn base that i'm mixing 1:1 color to reducer

I'm gonna mess around with it a little more to get it mixed right!
i'll catch you when i get it right, Diddy........

the clear is hardening allright, it's the damn base that i'm mixing 1:1 color to reducer

I was just curious about the clear. I was told not to thin it, but I think I was told wrong. The excessive thickness is one reason I switched back to clear lacquer.

Assuming you're using one-part Chromabase (no separate hardener) with either lacquer thinner or reducer for automotive urethanes, one-to-one color to thinner/reducer should do the trick. If it doesn't, there's something other than mixture going on.

Diddy