Oil Pan Drips
flashlight
11-02-2007, 08:30 PM
Alright after I switched out my oil pans and tightened up all of the screws I still end up leaking oil, which is something that it wasn't doing before. Is there anything that I can do or use to stop the leaking oil?
91Caprice9c1
11-03-2007, 01:50 AM
Are all your oil pan bolts tightened evenly to 97in.lbs.?
If so, then you must remove the pan and begin again.
Make sure the mating surfaces are clean and dry. And see that the mating surface of the oil pan is square and flat. Once this has been verified, use this instead of a gasket:
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j64/isc20/25224.jpg
Follow the directions, then get your bolts in and torque to 97in.lbs. You will not have a leak. This is not your typical RTV sealant. This is good stuff.
-MechanicMatt
If so, then you must remove the pan and begin again.
Make sure the mating surfaces are clean and dry. And see that the mating surface of the oil pan is square and flat. Once this has been verified, use this instead of a gasket:
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j64/isc20/25224.jpg
Follow the directions, then get your bolts in and torque to 97in.lbs. You will not have a leak. This is not your typical RTV sealant. This is good stuff.
-MechanicMatt
DavidLang
11-03-2007, 06:52 AM
[QUOTE=91Caprice9c1]Are all your oil pan bolts tightened evenly to 97in.lbs.?
If so, then you must remove the pan and begin again.
Make sure the mating surfaces are clean and dry. And see that the mating surface of the oil pan is square and flat. Once this has been verified, use this instead of a gasket:
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j64/isc20/25224.jpg
Follow the directions, then get your bolts in and torque to 97in.lbs. You will not have a leak. This is not your typical RTV sealant. This is good stuff.
-MechanicMatt[/QUOT
Hey MechanicMatt,
I have the same problemo. Do you let the sealant set up before you torque, or do you torque while it's still wet? Thanks for your answer. DL
If so, then you must remove the pan and begin again.
Make sure the mating surfaces are clean and dry. And see that the mating surface of the oil pan is square and flat. Once this has been verified, use this instead of a gasket:
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j64/isc20/25224.jpg
Follow the directions, then get your bolts in and torque to 97in.lbs. You will not have a leak. This is not your typical RTV sealant. This is good stuff.
-MechanicMatt[/QUOT
Hey MechanicMatt,
I have the same problemo. Do you let the sealant set up before you torque, or do you torque while it's still wet? Thanks for your answer. DL
91Caprice9c1
11-03-2007, 07:47 PM
For 'The Right Stuff' you are to torque while still wet. This is not the case with other sealants. It is best to read the directions on the product you are using.
-MechanicMatt
-MechanicMatt
GM Line Rat
11-04-2007, 09:46 AM
Are all your oil pan bolts tightened evenly to 97in.lbs.?
If so, then you must remove the pan and begin again.
Make sure the mating surfaces are clean and dry. And see that the mating surface of the oil pan is square and flat.
In other words.....When you remove a oil pan (Or any other part that uses a gasket) , You Have to scrape off both the oil pan surface where the gasket sets on AND the block surface where the gasket will set when you put the pan back on. If you leave any part of the old gasket material on the block or on the pan mating surface.....The new gasket cant set completly flat and seal completly when tightened down. Cork gaskets are notorious for leaving parts stuck to the mating surface when they are removed.
1. Drain the Oil and Remove oil pan again.
2. Lay the oil pan "Mating Surface" down on a clean flat surface and check to see if the pan is True (Flat and non distorted anywhere). If you find any area's where the pan is not sitting flat, they need to be fixed before re-installing the pan and gasket again.
3. Both the Oil pan mating surface and The block mating surface need to be clean and free off ALL gasket material and Oil / Debris etc... Scrape and Clean both the oil pan mating surface, and the block mating surface for the oil pan gasket. A small scraper and a can of brake parts cleaner work good here.
4. Reinstall the oil pan as Matt has suggested with the "Right Stuff" (It works great!) or a NEW Oil pan gasket.
For 'The Right Stuff' you are to torque while still wet. This is not the case with other sealants. It is best to read the directions on the product you are using.
-MechanicMatt
YEP!
If so, then you must remove the pan and begin again.
Make sure the mating surfaces are clean and dry. And see that the mating surface of the oil pan is square and flat.
In other words.....When you remove a oil pan (Or any other part that uses a gasket) , You Have to scrape off both the oil pan surface where the gasket sets on AND the block surface where the gasket will set when you put the pan back on. If you leave any part of the old gasket material on the block or on the pan mating surface.....The new gasket cant set completly flat and seal completly when tightened down. Cork gaskets are notorious for leaving parts stuck to the mating surface when they are removed.
1. Drain the Oil and Remove oil pan again.
2. Lay the oil pan "Mating Surface" down on a clean flat surface and check to see if the pan is True (Flat and non distorted anywhere). If you find any area's where the pan is not sitting flat, they need to be fixed before re-installing the pan and gasket again.
3. Both the Oil pan mating surface and The block mating surface need to be clean and free off ALL gasket material and Oil / Debris etc... Scrape and Clean both the oil pan mating surface, and the block mating surface for the oil pan gasket. A small scraper and a can of brake parts cleaner work good here.
4. Reinstall the oil pan as Matt has suggested with the "Right Stuff" (It works great!) or a NEW Oil pan gasket.
For 'The Right Stuff' you are to torque while still wet. This is not the case with other sealants. It is best to read the directions on the product you are using.
-MechanicMatt
YEP!
91Caprice9c1
11-04-2007, 02:57 PM
Thanks again GM, for clarifying. Spot on.
-MechanicMatt
-MechanicMatt
flashlight
11-04-2007, 10:35 PM
Using that gasket sealer worked very well. And if you happen to read the directions it will tell you to bolt the item into place within 5 minutes. And it will work up to 475 degrees 500 at the max. operating temperature. So I got the oil leak all sealed up and now I don't have to worry about that anymore.:grinyes:
DavidLang
11-15-2007, 09:03 AM
When applying RTV (The Right Stuff). should you use a 1/4 inch bead all the way around, circling each bolt hole, or should you put it on with a trowel, covering the entire oil pan flange? Thanks for your answer.
91Caprice9c1
11-16-2007, 03:07 AM
I typically lay a 0.25" bead around the pan on the inside of the bolts holes, then go back around the outside of the bolt holes with a more conservative semi-circle, then lightly smear it around to even out the coverage and widen it a bit. Get it all done pretty quickly - I dont think I've ever had this stuff harden on me in a real 5 minutes, but it is much quicker to harden than typical RTV. And keep in mind:
...It is best to read the directions on the product you are using...
-MechanicMatt
...It is best to read the directions on the product you are using...
-MechanicMatt
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