hub assembly

does any one have installation instructions for a wheel hub assembly on a 03 slero?

try a search on hub assembly.

try this, but still search.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=758951&highlight=hub+assembly

remove wheel remove and support caliper remove disc remove the drive axle bolt, from behind knuckle remove the 3 bolt that hold the hub&bearing then 2choice use the puller tu pull the hub or use a zip gun or a punch and do it a lil on each corner eventtually the hub is gonna separate and u need to take out the drive axle from the hub&bearing too use the zip gun with pointy tip to push the drive axle in the midle dont hammer it ur gonna screw the axle thread then put the new hub&bearing and reinstall all
and for the drive axle nut torque
Old style: 385 Nm (284ft.lbs)
New style: 235Nm (173ft.lbs)

If the OP needs pics just PM me or make a request in this thread since I have a collection covering the complete hub removal and replacement for the Alero.

Keep in mind the published torque figures in the FSMs is for the AC Delco hub which will have 3 new hub to spindle bolts and the new style second design axle nut. Normally aftermarket hub providers publish their recommended axle nut torque based on material composition. See pic below.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/DSC06379.jpg
AC Delco/GM Hub Assembly Alero


The proper socket size is 36mm for the axle nut. Be sure to use PBblaster on the axle nut before removing. I recommend loosening not removing the axle nut before wheel removal. Also, you will need a long breaker bar if you do not have any power or air tools.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/DSC06382.jpg



To get the axle shaft off the hub I used the old PAC axle nut from the old hub. Thread nut over a few threads. Then carefully use a hammer by tapping on the axle nut until the axle shaft gives. See pic below.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/DSC06407.jpg



Old hub removed. Be sure to use PBBlaster on the 3 hub to spindle bolts. This is the hardest and most time consuming part of the job. Removing the 3 hub to spindle bolts. Also, note the wheel sensor wiring harness.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/DSC06396.jpg



Job completed.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/DSC06405.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/DSC06420.jpg

BNaylor - Thanks for the great pictures. I'm having trouble removing the bearing. The three bolts are really hard to get at with any decent amount of torque. Any tips on tools or suggestions to get those three bolts out? Also in regards to using the hammer on the old axle nut, is that only something I need to do if I don't have a hub puller? I borrowed a hub puller, so I thought I just need to remove the three bolts and then use the puller to remove the hub. Thanks for the help!

BNaylor - Thanks for the great pictures. I'm having trouble removing the bearing. The three bolts are really hard to get at with any decent amount of torque. Any tips on tools or suggestions to get those three bolts out? Also in regards to using the hammer on the old axle nut, is that only something I need to do if I don't have a hub puller? I borrowed a hub puller, so I thought I just need to remove the three bolts and then use the puller to remove the hub. Thanks for the help!

Welcome to AF.

Yeah those three hub to spindle bolts are a real PITA. Probably the hardest and most time consuming part of the job. GM used threadlocker on the bolt threads during assembly. I used PPBaster penetrating spray on the bolts and let sit a few hours and repeated once I was able to get the bolts to finally break loose and budge. Then slowly but surely work the bolts out small turns at a time. I used a short 13mm 3/8" drive socket (6 point only) and 3/8" drive ratchet along with some short extensions. You have to be careful not to strip the bolt heads. The two lower outer bolts weren't that bad but the one at the top was difficult but as you can see I was able to get the hub off. Also, I was able to get my torque wrench in there as you can see by the pics below to properly torque the bolts per GM specs.

On the hub puller only if you cannot get one. But if you have the right one then it is best to use it. I've done quite a few hub jobs on GM cars and found out that the recommended hub puller was not necessary to get the job done.

Also, it might help to remove the axle from the hub assembly with the hub puller or my method before removing the hub bolts because you may gain some minor clearance to get at those three hub bolts. The axle shaft will push in towards the autotransaxle. Good luck!


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/DSC06395.jpg


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/lizzywiz/DSC06413.jpg

Okay, so maybe I just wasn't patient enough. I used PBBlaster and let it sit for 15 minutes. I was able to get the bottom two, but the top one still didn't budge. I sprayed the top one again just now and I'll wait a few hours before trying again. I haven't really found a good combination of swivels and extensions that allows me to get two hands on the socket wrench. I end up having to use one hand just to keep the socket wrench lined up on the bolt.


Also, it might help to remove the axle from the hub assembly with the hub puller or my method before removing the hub bolts because you may gain some minor clearance to get at those three hub bolts. The axle shaft will push in towards the autotransaxle. Good luck!


I don't understand what you mean about pushing the axle shaft in through the hub. Anyway, I'll just wait until the PBBlaster has a chance to do it's magic, and report back later. Thanks!

Yes! A while later (and one bruised palm later) the PB Blaster did the trick and I got the top bolt out. Now when I reinstall what is the torque spec for those three bolts? I know the torque spec for the axle nut, but I didn't see anything listed for those three bolts. Also, do I really need to re-apply the loc-tite? If so, would it be okay to use a lower strength version because I don't want to have to break that bolt free again in the future.

Well, that is good news for you. 70 lb-ft.

It is up to you to apply any threadlocker. OK to use the low strength. I used AC Delco hubs which came with 3 new hub bolts and pre-applied threadlocker.

Hi, I'm new to this forum .. I though it might be the most appropriate place (this tread) to ask this question:

Does anyone as the shematics of the ABS wire harness *( right side)? I know that mine is defective ... but I'm not willing to pay what the dealer is asking. I'm gonna remove mine, and remake one using the same connectors *( or new one if necessary) and high grade wires (insulators, protectors, etc).

It's for an Alero 2000 Gx, with 2.4L engine.

It sounds rediculous ... but I'm sure there's not more than 6$ of wire in this + 10$ of connectors.

Thanks for your help!
P.S.: .. nice job for for the hubs ... last time I did mine was on a mercury mystique .. it tooks 10 tons of pressure on a hydraulic press to remove them! :evillol:

Hi, I'm new to this forum .. I though it might be the most appropriate place (this tread) to ask this question:

Does anyone as the shematics of the ABS wire harness *( right side)? I know that mine is defective ... but I'm not willing to pay what the dealer is asking. I'm gonna remove mine, and remake one using the same connectors *( or new one if necessary) and high grade wires (insulators, protectors, etc).

It's for an Alero 2000 Gx, with 2.4L engine.

It sounds rediculous ... but I'm sure there's not more than 6$ of wire in this + 10$ of connectors.

Thanks for your help!
P.S.: .. nice job for for the hubs ... last time I did mine was on a mercury mystique .. it tooks 10 tons of pressure on a hydraulic press to remove them! :evillol:

Welcome to AF.

I've got the GM Factory Service Manual for the 2002 Alero/Grand Am which may be similar. Are you looking for wiring termination points or point to point wiring? The harness from the hub feeds over to the ABS Modulator which also has the EBTCM module used for ABS and traction control. Located driver's side on the engine cradle/subframe under the inner apron area.

Welcome to AF.

I've got the GM Factory Service Manual for the 2002 Alero/Grand Am which may be similar. Are you looking for wiring termination points or point to point wiring? The harness from the hub feeds over to the ABS Modulator which also has the EBTCM module used for ABS and traction control. Located driver's side on the engine cradle/subframe under the inner apron area.

Thanks for your fast reply! I wanted to buy this manual .. but i'm getting a hard time to find a used one on Ebay. I'm looking for the wiring termination points and the point to point wiring. Both will be very usefull when it will be the time to verify the new harness.

If I succeed in making this harness, I will post the complete solution / materials on the tread. *( I will probably make a nice .zip file :licka: ).

I will need to remove my harness and calculate to correct length of wire, but having the schematics will make my life easier ..lol.

Thanks a lot again BNaylor!

Hey, I am just about to tackle this job myself. I started once, but got held up on removing the brake calipers. I am not able to budge the two bolts from behind. Should I just hit these with that BP Blaster stuff? Also, I was using a socket. I don't have an air gun but would a drill work just as well?

Last question, I suspect it's my right bearing going as the car is pulling to the right, however the noise is louder on the left side.

PBBaster works miracles on stubborn bolts. :grinyes: The problem is the caliper mounting bracket bolts have a high torque figure to start.

You can use regular handtools. On the socket make sure it is 6 point. Also, you could use a breaker bar (18"-24").

The rule of thumb on audible bearing noise is replace the bearings in pairs. Noise travels weird in the sub-compact N body chassis and sometimes you really can't tell. Bummer if you replace the one you suspect and it turns out to be the other.

And welcome to AF.

Thanks, I was planning on replacing both bearings as it's the same cost as the shop.

I have tried everything I can think of now and still can't get these bolts off for the brakes. I have tried penetrating oil (waited a couple of hours), socket, litely tapping them with a hamer, drill, and still can budge them. Is there something I am missing. Besides around the head of the bold, is there another place to apply the pentrating oil?

I am slowly loosing confidence in doing this job. :(

Hang in there Cap and don't give up. I see you are up North in Canada so rust and corrosion is an issue and probably the reason why the two bolts are difficult to remove. You are turning the bolts counterclockwise? :uhoh: You may need an air impact tool like the shops use.

Ya counterclockwise. I assume like a normal bolt. I will probably give it one more go. I think my neighbor has an airgun/compressor. I will talk to him, see if I can get his help.

I had a terrilbe time with just changing one hub. I couldn't even get the calliper mount off... the bolts were killer. I finally bought a better socket (less sides) and it came off with great leverage and PB blaster.

Then the assembly could not and would not come out. I got a slide hammer from auto zone and the thing came apart instead of out. I put the bearing bolts back in and attatched the slide hammer 1 at a time and got more of the hub out. THen I used a hammer and screw driver to "chisel" the rest out.... after 12 hours over 3 days, sunburn, and bloody knuckles I finally changed the hub.

I held my breath that the lights would go out and that everything was working perfectly.... and it was!!!!

I was grateful for the experience and the fact that the other side had been changed by the previous owner/dealer.

I don't mean to scare anyone away but you should know what could happen especially if you are a novice like me.

I had the same issue with the calipre. I finally borrowed my neighbors impact wrench and they came out like butter. This was definitly the hardest bit for me. Taking the three bolts holding the hub off was time consuming but not overly difficult.

To get the hub out I used BNaylor's suggestion of slowly taping either side of the hub with a hammer - and a lot of of penetrating oil.

I do now have a squel with my brake though. :( I am hoping I put everything back together correctly. I am going to change my rotors and pads in the next month or so, so I plan on correcting it then.

I've got my otherside still to do, but hopefully should be a lot easier.

tapping with the hammer did not help me... maybe I wasn't doing it right but it just wasn't as simple as described. G/l with the brakes, Cap'n.

I have a different vehicle, but it is close enough as it is a GM. I can't get the hub assembly off. Three bolts off, axle nut off, hub still on. The puller wouldn't budge it, and I fear that any more pressure on the axle will damage one of the CV joints.

Is the best option a slide hammer or air hammer now? Anybody with pictures detailing that procedure? Preferably with a slide hammer because I don't have a compressor for an air hammer. However, either one will be illustrative enough for me.

I am pretty good with tools, and have removed all 4 bolts w/o a breaker bar or PB, so I am strong, lol. I think I can do it with a slide hammer if that will work, but this is my first time tackling this project (hub) so I am scared to really manhandle anything or use the improper tools. Thanks.