Draining tank for pump replacement

My fuel pump finally failed after 131,000 miles on my '99 4DR 2WD Tahoe. I have read the threads here and found the correct part number for the pump module, and that should not be a problem. However, I'm stuck on how to drain or remove the 25 or so gallons of fuel in the tank. I'm doing this in my garage so I will have to have the tank empty before dropping it down. Can anyone offer ideas or experiences?

I had a similar problem on an older chevy suburban. The tank had just been filled, when the vehicle quit, 30 something gallons we drained out it, 2 gallons at a time. Topped off the tanks in four different vehicles and started on a fifth, when the tank ran down. I was lucky, the pump would run, just not much pressure.

I took the fuel line loose at the fuel filter, used a short length of fuel line hose on the fuel line, aimed the hose into a two gallon can, ran B+ to the prime connector for the fuel pump, drained the tank.

If the pump won't run, I have seen a siphon-tube mechanism for sale at the auto stores, it looked fairly cheap. I guess you might try to remove the fill cap and siphon it out. goodluck

Thanks, jdl. I thought about that but I'm concerned about any arcing while the garage is full of vapors. I have been using a hand pump, and it's not going to take long. But, another question.....how much does the empty tank weigh? Can I lay under the jacked up vehicle and lower the tank by hand after I remove the straps or will I need to use a floor jack? This one is a 30 gallon capacity polypropylene model. Thanks.

Use a floor jack it probably won't be clear empty. You also need to lower it somewhat so you can disconnect the fuel lines,fill tube hose and electrical connections.

OK, thanks for the advice. Now, I remember one more thing. Is there some special tool or technique I need to disconnect the fuel lines? I can't see the connections without first lowering the tank, but I assume they're not simply using hose clamps.

KD or calvan make tools for this I think you will need a 5/16 and a 3/8 quick disconnect tool. They are made like an x with fittings for both size fuel lines.
Pep Boys or O'Riley's should have them. Advance or Auto Zone may have them.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I finished the job yesterday and the old Hoe is back up and running. Not a technically difficult job, but an inconvenient one. The cheap quick release tools the parts stores sell need to be modified so that they will clamp down on the plastic outlet where there is some additional plastic filler for support. Otherwise the tool won't close enough to insert into the line clamp. And why in the world did they have to make the fuel lines so short? But this pump is considerably quieter than the old. Should be good for another 130,00 or so. And Rock auto provided the pump to my door two days after I ordered it. That's a good group.

I SUPPOSE IT'S TO LATE TO TELL YOU A WAAAAY EASIER WAY...:evillol:

I SUPPOSE IT'S TO LATE TO TELL YOU A WAAAAY EASIER WAY...:evillol:
You might as well explain the easier way just in case there are more than three people reading these posts.

cut an access panel in the floor.....i've done it on every vehicle i've owned that needed a fuel sender or pump changed...screw dropping tanks:naughty:

http://i23.ebayimg.com/05/i/000/c4/fd/3d40_1.JPG

great idea, but what do you do about the added noise? turn up the radio a bit more?

WHAT NOISE? you cover it back up.....i just silicone a sheet of aluminum over the hole..that way i can pull it of again and its watertight

thats why it's called an access panel..not a hole

No offense, but that is the most Redneck sollution I have ever heard of. Do you use the old "Smoke wrench" on it? Sounds like a recipe for a big BANG!

They Invented These Things Called Tin Snips...THE TAHOE FLOOR IS AS THIN AS A TIN CAN

It's Actually Called Common Sense...not That Common Unfortunatly Though

I was going to do that, but then I remember the problem I had when trying to replace the hole I cut in the transmission pan last time I changed the tranny fluid...I hate all those bolts. The darned thing just kept leaking. But I will try that approach next time I change the differential grease.

What size hole did you cut foreign cars like Volvo have a factory access for this.

LOL! Just use your "common sense". Maybe you could add a sun roof while you're at it. :rofl: :cwm27: :cwm27: :iceslolan

re:I was going to do that, but then I remember the problem I had when trying to replace the hole I cut in the transmission pan last time I changed the tranny fluid...I hate all those bolts.


I weld in a plug fitting for that:iceslolan

"LOL! Just use your "common sense". Maybe you could add a sun roof while you're at it."

SUNROOF!! What do I need a sunroof for after I make it a convertible??!!

the way most of the cars rust around here you'll be lucky if the tank doesn't fall of on its own...

the way most of the cars rust around here you'll be lucky if the tank doesn't fall of on its own...

AROUND HERE? You surely realize this new internet thing is world-wide, right?

And honestly, cutting a hole in the floor is about the worst idea I've ever heard, short of cutting a hole in the gas tank. How do you know where to cut? Drill lots of small holes until you find the pump/sender? What about cleaning all the dust/gravel out before removing the ring? Do you blow that all over the interior?

:banhim: This series of thoughts is a fair representation of all his posts. Seriously, read them!

:popcorn:

You got my vote. This kind of advice could get someone injured.

Some of these people are replacing pumps every 30,000 miles and the dealers make a lot of money on the pump change or they would install an axcess panel like Volvo's and other foreign cars. Lift up the mat remove 6 to 8 metal screws and your ready to install the pump.
You can easily change a pump in a couple of hours with a lift and Hydraulic high lift jack on wheels.
Some dealers get $600.00 for the pump. Even at $100.00 per hour the labor should be $200.00 not $600.00.

Isn't the Volvo dealer Home of the $80 oil change? Maybe you should post in the Volvo forum? This forum is for those of us who screwed up and bought a Chevrolet Tahoe and now are doomed to working on them for the rest of our lives!

RE;This kind of advice could get someone injured.


IF YOUR THAT MUCH OF AN IDIOT YOU SHOULDN'T BE DRIVING LET ALONE WORKING ON IT.......

WHAT A BUNCH A CRYBABIES..:loser: :loser: :loser: :loser: :loser:

LOL. If that post doesn't get you banned, then they don't ban very many. Maybe one or twelve too many PBR's? :rofl:

I drive a Chevy Silverado but if I drove a Tahoe I would cut a hole like the man suggested. Then get some heavy sheet metal, silicon caulk and some self tappers cover the hole and put back the floor cover.
I do some work on the side and have done some Volvo work.
When you upgrade buy a new set of torx plus both regular and tamper proof.
Then buy a grinder to remove the transmission drain plug. Some GM's use a torx to hold in the distributor and you need a E4 deep quarter inch drive female torx to remove it.
My point is the auto manufacturers make you buy new tools and try to discourage people from working on their own vehicles.
Basically you have to buy from the internet to get tools you need. Tool trucks will make house calls if you buy enough.
Either the pumps aren't large enough or they got a good buy on Chinese bearings for the fuel pumps. I used to work in a steel mill in Youngstown Ohio and four mills closed in a day and I mostly buy USA mfg. vehicles.
With the economy going down hill quickly not everybody can afford dealer prices.

I never said an access hole is a bad idea. In fact, they are a great idea. CUTTING A HOLE ABOVE THE GAS TANK IS A BAD IDEA. If one were to remove the tank, cut a hole, weld a ring around it (of course remove all upholstery), drill and tap that ring for small screws, then make a solid cover that could be bolted on, it would probably be fine. But cutting a hole and gluing a piece of shet metal over it?

:screwy: DO YOU THINK A TAHOE IS A TANK?

IT'S A PEICE OF SHIT TIN CAN!

I'm not going to argue this. Some people need to be removed from the gene pool, I suppose in a way you're offering a valuable service.

THESE ARE BOTH YOUR POSTS..DO YOU EVEN BELIEVE YOUR OWN BULLSHIT!!!!!


"And honestly, cutting a hole in the floor is about the worst idea I've ever heard,"

"I never said an access hole is a bad idea. In fact, they are a great idea"

YOU ARE A JOKE...I'M DONE WITH YOU:screwy: :screwy: :screwy: :screwy: :screwy: :screwy:

THESE ARE BOTH YOUR POSTS..DO YOU EVEN BELIEVE YOUR OWN BULLSHIT!!!!!


"And honestly, cutting a hole in the floor is about the worst idea I've ever heard,"

"I never said an access hole is a bad idea. In fact, they are a great idea"

YOU ARE A JOKE...I'M DONE WITH YOU:screwy: :screwy: :screwy: :screwy: :screwy: :screwy:

Good job taking those out of context. I'm not arguing this, I am explaining it just in case you really didn't understand what I meant.

Cutting a hole in the manor you suggested is a bad idea. Almost everyone seems to agree with that.

Having an access hole is a good idea (whereas making your own is not a good idea). This would be one that was there from the factory, or one that was intelligently installed, as I described in an earlier post. Not one that was cut out with tin snips and has a cover glued over it.

I'm not telling you not to do this on your own vehicle, but please stop giving bad advice to those seeking a good answer. Someone could potentially get injured or killed by cutting blindly into sheet metal.

ok chicken little:runaround: :runaround: :runaround: :runaround: :runaround: :runaround:

AND I'M NOT TELLING YOU TO DO IT ON YOURS' YOU CAN GO AHEAD AND RUN THE RISK OF STATIC ELECTRICITY EXPLOSION , FUEL SPILLS,BEING CRUSHED BY YOUR VEHICLE,,,AFTER ALL THATS SAFFER ACCORDING TO YOU.

IT WAS INTENDED FOR MORE INTELLEGINT PEOPLE THAT CAN GRASP THE CONCEPT, AND HAVE PROPER SKILLS...AS IT WOULD BE FOR ANYTHING IN THIS FORUM..IF YOUR TO DUMB TO DO IT..DON'T...DON'T JUST WHINE ABOUT IT.

Yeah.......still a silly ass idea though. I would bet that you haven't even tried this idea on your own ride! It's not THAT big a deal to just drop the tank and replace the pump! It took about 45 minutes. Lazy people sometimes get hurt trying to take short cuts. Happy Thanksgiving! Would someone please kill this thread!?!?!?!

You're right. Overall it wasn't that tough a job. In fact I'd bet it would have taken longer to remove the carpet and seat, cut the hole, then cut the hole again because I wouldn't have made the first one big enough, swap the modules, seal both pieces I cut out, then put it all back so it looked good. And since I'm the poor turkey that started this mess, I hereby declare this issue as closed. Can I do that?