Fu*king intercooler pipes...

I'm so sick and tired of them blowing off! :banghead: it was way cold out (for texas felt like maybe 60*), and i was logging a 3ed gear pull, and boom, at about 75mph, 5200 rpm (DSMlink values) boom! the pipe shoots off! :banghead: and i'm about 15-20 miles from home... and on the side of a 75mph speedlimit road, no jacket, no tools, nothing, so i get out, FREEZING COLD! get out the crank OEM flat tire jack, and lift up the car, i lay down on the ground (in NICE cloths) and crawl under the passenger side... find the problem, and just stick the pipe back together (the clamp is long gone!) and put home with the hazards on, maxing out at about 30mph, and 20inHG... didnt want to have to fu*k with it again... so i'm cruzing along a 75mph road, in the right lane, going 30 mph, and some jack ass in a honda civic comes up and starts reving his Ricer... talking shit out the window about DSM's (windows where fogging up and didnt want to have the A/C taking up what little power i had to use) :screwy: i could have BURNED him if my I/C/P wheren't Fu*ked to sh*t! so i get into my neighborhood, and of course the pipe blows off about a block from my house... so i get the jack out again, and blah blah blah... Fu*k anyone got a way to stop this? because i have beads, clamps, and even some J/B weld on top of that to hold the pipes together, and they keep blowing off! i'm going to go up to the shop that made my exhaust, and see if they can make me a solid, 1 peace LICP, and a 2 Peace UICP (break for the BOV adapter)... that sounds like the best solution now... any input?

here is what it looked like from DSMlink's Point of View...DSMlink Log (http://www.box.net/shared/mtehkpq1th)

You had a little more knock in that pull. It had that huge spike at the end but I think that is just when you blew out. Get a good run in with no disasters and we can get the numbers up.

The good clamps or the shitty ones? And you say you have the beads welded on them? That shouldn't be happening like that.

And 60 is FREEZING COLD? Man, switch places with me for a month and you'll see what freezing cold is, I don't even think it got to 60 for a high today. I wear shorts when it's 60. :D :p

Man you shouldn't be blowing lines off if you have beads welded on there... With beads and some nice t-clamps you should never have to worry about it... Of course my LICP is all one piece and my upper is two... It happens dude... That is why you always carry tools and extra stuff in DSM's. lol

Duck Tape FTW!!!

Nah man, I dont see how its even possible that you keep blowing them off with welded beads and t-bolt clamps. Im assuming you have t-bolt clamps. Maybe there is a little bit of oil getting on the outside of the pipe or on the coupler making it slip out easier?

MAP sensor FTW - If I blow off an intercooler pipe I just cant boost, motor will run fine. I guess you could do the same with a gm maf though

The good clamps or the shitty ones? And you say you have the beads welded on them? That shouldn't be happening like that.

And 60 is FREEZING COLD? Man, switch places with me for a month and you'll see what freezing cold is, I don't even think it got to 60 for a high today. I wear shorts when it's 60. :D :p

Dido. High of 49 yesterday and I was outside putting the fuel line together in t-shirt and pants. I wish it was 60 again.

I find it crazy that the hoses just blow off like that. T-Bolt clamps all the way. Unbeatable IMO.

MAP sensor FTW - If I blow off an intercooler pipe I just cant boost, motor will run fine. I guess you could do the same with a gm maf though
Yup... My car will be running NA before it actually gets to run with the turbo. =)

i hate when this happens, but if you drive a DSM you should always carry enough tools to get stuff like that fixed soon. i learned the hard way too. it broke down and didnt have tools or jack.

i have the shitty clamps... (home depo) and some of the pipes have beads welded, some have JB weld "beads"... they where all welded nice untill i did the 16g Swap... now its all f-ed up because of the J-pipe and how it differs from the T-2small elbow.... i think i'm going to go with the custom made pipes from the exhaust shop, anyone have an ideas about that? because then i'll never have to worry about blowing pipes again, if they are all one big piece!

Why not just buy some t-bolt clamps? So your using worm clamps and expect them to hold? I make my own intercooler pipes with mandrel bent sections from jcwhitney. And just welded some together and used a few couplers to let the pipes flex some. Turned out really well and only have about $80 into it.

Why not just buy some t-bolt clamps? So your using worm clamps and expect them to hold? I make my own intercooler pipes with mandrel bent sections from jcwhitney. And just welded some together and used a few couplers to let the pipes flex some. Turned out really well and only have about $80 into it.
i dont have a welder.. which is the reason why some of my pipes have welded beads, and others have JB welded beads... but i'll get some "T" clamps and see what happenes then...

Can i get them at home Depo?

I doubt it, I have seen then and hydrolic stores and places like that. Im sure you could find them in town somewhere. I just ordered mine though.

alright, thanks! i'll look into it!

Napa for the Tbolt clamp win. ;) Also use some rough sandpaper (80 grit or so) to rough up the pipes under the coupler/hose. If the combination of those two things in addition to your beads doesn't work, spray some hairspray on as well and assemble (it dries tacky and holds the coupler on).

spray some hairspray on as well and assemble (it dries tacky and holds the coupler on).
your kidding right!?!?!?! lol original POS racing quote right their! lol i'll give it a shot... :smokin:

It's an ooooold skool DSMer trick, now you know. ;)

It's an ooooold skool DSMer trick, now you know. ;)
haha! Found these (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T-bolt-Clamp-2-25-2-5-2-75-3-0-3-25-3-5-4-0-clamps_W0QQitemZ270179486269QQihZ017QQcategoryZ337 42QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) on Ebay. let me know what you think, if this would be a good clamp, i have looked all over town, and had NO luck! so back to good 'ol ebay!

Those look like typical tbolt clamps.

Those look like typical tbolt clamps.
yeah, but they cost $.99 each, and are $2.49 each to ship... i was also looking at the OBX ones, because they come in a set of 10 and thats exactly how many i need... for like $25 shipped... haha just heard bad stuff about OBX, but i think their clamps will be fine?? right?

That pretty much what I got. They work fine.

Those clamps are 2.49 at NAPA IIRC, so he is probably swapping the cost of the part and the shipping to try to be a clever ebayer. Not impressed, but they should work just as well.

Have you considered one of these??
http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=7079&cat=1055&page=1

That seems a bit unnecessary. A good set of couplers and t-bolt clamps should be more than enough to hold the pressure in, if not then weld beads around the end. I really dont think anyone would possible have a good use for it.

I got a 2 foot section of black 2.5" id heavy duty hose shit from napa and made my own couplers. Then I mostly used two basic hose clamps per connection side (4 per connection) and tighten the shit out of them. I used to have pipes blowing off or out of their socket a lot for a while then I redid it all and made sure every connection had the pipes touching inside the coupler and clamped really good. Never had one blow off since then...

T bolt clamps are definately the way to go but they are a little more expensive

The straps are very useful on cars running high boost and aluminum piping. By the time you get the tbolts tight enough to keep the couplers on at say 45 psi, you've crushed your expensive aluminum pipes. ;) Just like you should never use one fastener to both locate and clamp an important part (example, head stunds clamp the head down, dowel pins locate the head on the block(prevent side to side movement)), many people prefer to use couplers/clamps to only do the pressure sealing, and use boost straps for locating the parts. There is no reason to avoid doing it this way other than cost and additional welding (if you can't do it yourself). It just isn't really necessary for people running low boost and steel pipes that allow you to crank down on the tbolts.

So why would you want to use aluminum intercooler pipe. It may be lighter but if you cant tighted the clamps enough and have to use this other shit then it doesn't even seem worth the gains of lighter intercooler pipe.

So why would you want to use aluminum intercooler pipe. It may be lighter but if you cant tighted the clamps enough and have to use this other shit then it doesn't even seem worth the gains of lighter intercooler pipe.
Cause they're shiny... :icon16:

So is chromed out metal!

The average guy may not want to deal with aluminum IC pipes, but a car that's going ona diet can't avoid them for long.

The EVO's stock IC pipes are aluminum BTW.

60?

Tonight its 34 here in MI and I'm jumping on the Harley to go for a cruise!

Kevin, How much weight do you think could be shead from switching to aluminum pipe? Why not just get some thin gauge steel pipe. I just dont see saving a little bit of weight and risking blowing off a pipe in a race.

The EVO's stock IC pipes are aluminum BTW.
That actually surprises me. I figured they would have ran plastic piping for it on that thing...

Kevin, How much weight do you think could be shead from switching to aluminum pipe? Why not just get some thin gauge steel pipe. I just dont see saving a little bit of weight and risking blowing off a pipe in a race.

Not much, at most 10 lbs if you have a lot of piping. But on a race car it can pay off, every pound counts. I don't see anyone with a street car finding enough of a gain to justify the cost alone, never mind the pain in the ass to weld aluminum, etc. But my RWD for example wouldn't be down to 2000 lbs if these things were not taken advantage of.