Removing fuel pressure regulator
jeffk388
10-22-2007, 02:14 PM
This tip is based on 94 GA V6.
A) Removing Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)
- Unplug the wires to the air hose and
- Unplug connectors to TPS and IAC motor
- Remove the rubber air hose connected to the throttle body
- Remove the braket holdong butterfly valve wires
- Unscrew the top bolt holding throttle body
- Remove one nut hold water pipe
- Loose the bottom bolt holding the throttle body (this is tough) until you are able to rotate the trottle body clockwise (watch for the gasket).
= Now you have good access to the FPR
- Depressurize the fuel rail by using Schrader valve
- With a torx driver remove the screw attached to the fuel rail
- Unscrew the 24 mm nut on the bottom of FPR
- Pull FPR out of the fuel rail (it may not come out that easy)
- After this pull it upward some gas will come out
B) Putting back is reverse order
- Wet the two O-rings for easy slide in (Xero's idea)
C) Making tester
- Items needed: tire pump with gauge, a Schrader valve from bike tire, an adaptor from Schrader valve to garden hose, 6-12" garden hose, a hose calmp
- the diameter on the fuel rail side of FPR is about 22 mm and this goes into the garden hose. Put this into the garden hose and clamp it.
- After removing Schrader valve core (it does not need actually), connect the threaded side to the tire pump. The outer diameter of Schrader valve is 0.305" and so you may use a metal pipe at the same diameter with some thread (fine thread for better grip and sealing, or fine groves)
- By using some adaptor connect the other hand of the Schrader valve to the garden hose
- Make sure all connecting parts are air tight
- Turn the tire pump while you are blocking the bottom hole of FPR
- You may be able to feel at what pressure the valve is open.
- If the FPR opens around 41-47 psi, it's fine.
- Also check if air leak through the vacuum port.
- I recycled eveything except tire pump (electrical). Big bang for a penny
A) Removing Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)
- Unplug the wires to the air hose and
- Unplug connectors to TPS and IAC motor
- Remove the rubber air hose connected to the throttle body
- Remove the braket holdong butterfly valve wires
- Unscrew the top bolt holding throttle body
- Remove one nut hold water pipe
- Loose the bottom bolt holding the throttle body (this is tough) until you are able to rotate the trottle body clockwise (watch for the gasket).
= Now you have good access to the FPR
- Depressurize the fuel rail by using Schrader valve
- With a torx driver remove the screw attached to the fuel rail
- Unscrew the 24 mm nut on the bottom of FPR
- Pull FPR out of the fuel rail (it may not come out that easy)
- After this pull it upward some gas will come out
B) Putting back is reverse order
- Wet the two O-rings for easy slide in (Xero's idea)
C) Making tester
- Items needed: tire pump with gauge, a Schrader valve from bike tire, an adaptor from Schrader valve to garden hose, 6-12" garden hose, a hose calmp
- the diameter on the fuel rail side of FPR is about 22 mm and this goes into the garden hose. Put this into the garden hose and clamp it.
- After removing Schrader valve core (it does not need actually), connect the threaded side to the tire pump. The outer diameter of Schrader valve is 0.305" and so you may use a metal pipe at the same diameter with some thread (fine thread for better grip and sealing, or fine groves)
- By using some adaptor connect the other hand of the Schrader valve to the garden hose
- Make sure all connecting parts are air tight
- Turn the tire pump while you are blocking the bottom hole of FPR
- You may be able to feel at what pressure the valve is open.
- If the FPR opens around 41-47 psi, it's fine.
- Also check if air leak through the vacuum port.
- I recycled eveything except tire pump (electrical). Big bang for a penny
xeroinfinity
10-22-2007, 06:11 PM
Your directions are fine, here is a pic of that engine and area.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/auto%20odds-ends/953100FPR.jpg
B) Putting back is reverse order
- One both O-rings put some WD-40 to easy slide in
Bad idea IMHO !!!
wd40 will cause the rubber O ring to errode/degrade.
Best to wet them, if any lubrication is needed.
Manuals usualy say grease them, I prefer not to have grease in my fuel system.
Also your "tester" seems a bit extreem when you can rent a fuel pressure guage for around $25, then return it when through.
Plus it would give inconsistant readings. :dunno:
- When engines running, a bad difram will cause fuel to emit when the vacum line is removed on top.
Just my :2cents:
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c242/xeroinfinity/auto%20odds-ends/953100FPR.jpg
B) Putting back is reverse order
- One both O-rings put some WD-40 to easy slide in
Bad idea IMHO !!!
wd40 will cause the rubber O ring to errode/degrade.
Best to wet them, if any lubrication is needed.
Manuals usualy say grease them, I prefer not to have grease in my fuel system.
Also your "tester" seems a bit extreem when you can rent a fuel pressure guage for around $25, then return it when through.
Plus it would give inconsistant readings. :dunno:
- When engines running, a bad difram will cause fuel to emit when the vacum line is removed on top.
Just my :2cents:
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