Mr Masking Sol NEO

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone has used this product? I am having trouble sealing this small part for panting. Even with the tamiya tape. It bleeded.....

thanks

I've used both "Mr Masking Sol NEO" and "Micro Scale's Micro Mask"....
I'll be using MM for micro mask in the following.
Pros and Cons of both:
Neo:
Pros: Faster dying times than Neo letting you work more freely with acrylics. Visible when dry even on dark colors. Dries within 20-30 minutes.
Cons: Hard to clean off even with water. It seems that when this is dry, water doesn't really effect it even though its a water based product. provided brush gets clogged up and is near impossible to clean off. Harder to trim compared to MM. Easier to peel off too much before painting. Hard to get a thin layer on (this stuff is thick)
MM:
Pros: Easier to trim. cleans off with water. One bottle goes a long way, when compared to Neo, one bottle of MM will out last 2 or 3 bottles of neo. Very thin parting line when dried (kind of like when you use BMF to mask, the low hieght diff leaves less of a ridge)
Cons: it dries clear making it harder to see on darker colors, takes a long time to dry sometimes over an hour. Harder to peel off when dried (more elasticy compared to NEO and it tears easily). Doesn't include a brush meaning you will have to prepare your own.

I like using liquid masks but sometimes they can cause trouble. Make sure your arcylics have dried for over a day before using either brand. And test on scrap beforehand to understand each type's 'personalities'. I use normall masking tape near the area to be masked to act as a handle, this makes peeling it off somewhat easier. I mostly use either product with lacquers or enamels as they might attack arcylic.

I use MM much more than NEO, I'm on my second bottle of MM and still on my first of NEO. If using normal masking tape bleeds, then try spraying clear or the original color to seal the gaps.

HTH,
Steve

I use Humbrol Maskol extensively and I can't imagine living without it now :)
I can get a thinnish covering if I need it but I generally use it in situations where this is not really an issue. It flows quite well into curves etc (although sometimes I wish it did it even better). Nice purplish color when dry and peels off easily and, most importantly for me, cleanly without leaving marks/stains.

I have yet to use other products so I can't compare.

I have read (but not tried) about using artists' liquid masking thinned with water and airbrushed into place and then trimmed with a sharp knife.

HTH

I have used this glue for just about anything for anything. It dries fast and is always workable. I do use MM as well but am not as confident with it yet.
http://www.aleenes.com/ProductDetails.aspx?id=0ec308f9-71a4-4fd0-b4df-b4bbf7b42152

I don't think artists' masking liquid works very well on models. It always stays rubbery, so you can't trim it neatly with a blade.

Micro Mask works very well if you apply it right: a thin coat first, and then a thick dollop over the thin. The "range" of the thick glop will be more or less limited by the thin coat. It takes a while to dry, but unlike artists' Maskit, you can trim it very cleanly.

As far as removal goes, if you can lift an edge, the rest will easily follow suit. I really like Steve's solution of using a bit of adjoining masking tape as a handle to lift that crucial edge. I'll try it the next time I use MM. Or use the sticky side of just about any kind of tape. Warm water works, too, but requires quite a bit of toothbrushing.

I'm have a lot of 1/8" Great Planes striping tape and like it, but most people recommend Tamiya. I'll try it when this stuff runs out. Scotch/3M makes some blue "Delicate Surface" masking tape that works well for large areas. It's not the standard 3M semi-glossy blue masking tape that makes very clean edges but which is a little too sticky for delicate models.

I just ran into the panel gap seepage problem. I got some great advice on another forum. First burnish the inside edge of the tape. Then spray either body color or clearcoat along the edge. That seals it. After it dries, you can apply your stripe (or whatever) and not worry about seepage under the tape. To keep from lifting the new paint, remove the tape before it's fully dry. That's especially important with acrylics and enamels, which cure as tough, thin sheets that lift before they tear.

Diddy