engine help
civic lover
10-16-2007, 11:51 AM
question: if I were to swap out the b2 I have in my 89 dx for a b1 would I see any mpg gain? The way I look at it is from 92 horsepower to 70 means instead of 0-60 in 12 seconds it will take 15, not a big deal to me
the reason: gas mileage.
the reason: gas mileage.
stnapycnaf
10-16-2007, 10:42 PM
if you want to see areally nice MPG gain ... just swap in a D15B6 [HF engine]
Nobody really wants them after they swap them out, so you can get them fairly cheap
You'll have to do an MPFI swap [which is better anyways] and you'll get well over 40MPG ... and the only major trade off is that instead of 70HP ... you'll have 62HP
Nobody really wants them after they swap them out, so you can get them fairly cheap
You'll have to do an MPFI swap [which is better anyways] and you'll get well over 40MPG ... and the only major trade off is that instead of 70HP ... you'll have 62HP
wiseguy01
10-16-2007, 11:43 PM
the mpg is affected by the power to weight ratio not whether or not u put a smaller engine in a car those are some factors u need to look at and by power to weight i mean like for every 10 pounds there is 5hp hence a smaller engine in a bigger car doesnt help but a bigger engine in a smaller car makes it fast but they dont account the weight of the motor
civic lover
10-16-2007, 11:45 PM
yeah a B6 swap would make more sense. I actualy have the motor and trans sittin at home. The deal is my civic is my daily driver and can't go a day without it. That is why I figure if I swap out the cams that should only take a few hours at most (depends on the amount of alcohol being consumed).
Still leads me back to my question though. would I see any noticable gains? Also am wondering if anyone has come across the cam specs for the d15b2 and d15b1. Iv'e been googling and there is little to no info on the std. It really is the ugly duckling of the civic models. I really doubt the 20 horsepower loss is due to the cam. Some of the loss is from the intake manifold.
Still leads me back to my question though. would I see any noticable gains? Also am wondering if anyone has come across the cam specs for the d15b2 and d15b1. Iv'e been googling and there is little to no info on the std. It really is the ugly duckling of the civic models. I really doubt the 20 horsepower loss is due to the cam. Some of the loss is from the intake manifold.
Christ
10-16-2007, 11:46 PM
actually, you're only partially right... MPG is affected by power to weight, and total fuel intake, and several other engine factors...
and a B6 swap w/ MPFI THAT WAS MADE FOR THE B6 will net you higher mileage gains. if you use the Si MPFI swap, then it won't help much, but the HF manifold was desinged for better fuel mileage, and hence, will work better for your application.
and a B6 swap w/ MPFI THAT WAS MADE FOR THE B6 will net you higher mileage gains. if you use the Si MPFI swap, then it won't help much, but the HF manifold was desinged for better fuel mileage, and hence, will work better for your application.
civic lover
10-16-2007, 11:50 PM
the mpg is affected by the power to weight ratio not whether or not u put a smaller engine in a car those are some factors u need to look at and by power to weight i mean like for every 10 pounds there is 5hp hence a smaller engine in a bigger car doesnt help but a bigger engine in a smaller car makes it fast but they dont account the weight of the motor
I understand that but... if the car is somewhat over powered than that is lost energy. Which drops MPG.
Weight is less of a factor with my car too. Since I live in the wonderful state of Minnesota the dump salt all over the roads. which means my car is rusting and is shedding the pounds every day. (I f****** hate Minnesota for dumping salt, can't drive anything too nice)
I understand that but... if the car is somewhat over powered than that is lost energy. Which drops MPG.
Weight is less of a factor with my car too. Since I live in the wonderful state of Minnesota the dump salt all over the roads. which means my car is rusting and is shedding the pounds every day. (I f****** hate Minnesota for dumping salt, can't drive anything too nice)
civic lover
10-16-2007, 11:54 PM
Just looking for a quick swap to net a few MPG's, and not have to go through all the trouble of swapping engine tranny and doing all the wiring for the mpfi.
stnapycnaf
10-17-2007, 12:52 AM
I really dont see much of a gain if you swap in a B1 ...
My swap from my B6 [40+ MPG] to my A6 [~36 MPG average] was a what ... 46 HP boost?
I don't see how -20HP is going to net you much more MPG than what your getting right now ... considering I lost around 4-6 MPG with my swap ... it just seems like fruitless work to me.
Unless your B2 is old and tired and the B1 is fresh/gently used and you're looking for reliability or something.
My swap from my B6 [40+ MPG] to my A6 [~36 MPG average] was a what ... 46 HP boost?
I don't see how -20HP is going to net you much more MPG than what your getting right now ... considering I lost around 4-6 MPG with my swap ... it just seems like fruitless work to me.
Unless your B2 is old and tired and the B1 is fresh/gently used and you're looking for reliability or something.
civic lover
10-17-2007, 09:54 AM
I really dont see much of a gain if you swap in a B1 ...
My swap from my B6 [40+ MPG] to my A6 [~36 MPG average] was a what ... 46 HP boost?
I don't see how -20HP is going to net you much more MPG than what your getting right now ... considering I lost around 4-6 MPG with my swap ... it just seems like fruitless work to me.
Unless your B2 is old and tired and the B1 is fresh/gently used and you're looking for reliability or something.
if your b6 was only getting 40 mpg the motor must have been tired then. I guess the only way to find out is to test it myself and relay the results. I just need to find a b1 cam now. Think about it though, if results are unconclusive, it won't take long to swap out the cam again.
My swap from my B6 [40+ MPG] to my A6 [~36 MPG average] was a what ... 46 HP boost?
I don't see how -20HP is going to net you much more MPG than what your getting right now ... considering I lost around 4-6 MPG with my swap ... it just seems like fruitless work to me.
Unless your B2 is old and tired and the B1 is fresh/gently used and you're looking for reliability or something.
if your b6 was only getting 40 mpg the motor must have been tired then. I guess the only way to find out is to test it myself and relay the results. I just need to find a b1 cam now. Think about it though, if results are unconclusive, it won't take long to swap out the cam again.
Christ
10-17-2007, 10:58 AM
think about this... mileage on the engine also affects fuel mileage overall.. meaning that putting a new cam into an old engine may not give you any really reliable results, especially if your engine is already running on "E", if you know what I mean... (pun intended)
I tell ya tho, for ANY D-series swap, you don't need to change the tranny... and I happen to have a B6 head and intake laying around in my old bedroom at my dad's house, nothing wrong w/ it, just took it off to get a look inside the engine, didn't like it, and swapped it for an A6 head.
PM me if you'd like the head, intake, and stock HF ECU, pretty much, just clean it up, bolt it on, and you'd be good to go, other than the MPFI wiring, which you don't really need to do, you could always just put your DPFI intake on the head, and everything will still work fine.
If you were to swap your car over to MPFI, you'd need another dizzy, I gave the one that came off it to a friend of mine for his LX/Si swap (HF and Si dizzy's are exactly the same.)
So basically, buy my head, stick your intake and dizzy on it, and you'll be getting better mileage in no time, not to mention that you'll be able to get a look inside your engine to make sure that everything is cleaned up and structurally sound.. and a head swap can be done by a n00b in a day, you seem to at least have a clue what you're talking about.
I tell ya tho, for ANY D-series swap, you don't need to change the tranny... and I happen to have a B6 head and intake laying around in my old bedroom at my dad's house, nothing wrong w/ it, just took it off to get a look inside the engine, didn't like it, and swapped it for an A6 head.
PM me if you'd like the head, intake, and stock HF ECU, pretty much, just clean it up, bolt it on, and you'd be good to go, other than the MPFI wiring, which you don't really need to do, you could always just put your DPFI intake on the head, and everything will still work fine.
If you were to swap your car over to MPFI, you'd need another dizzy, I gave the one that came off it to a friend of mine for his LX/Si swap (HF and Si dizzy's are exactly the same.)
So basically, buy my head, stick your intake and dizzy on it, and you'll be getting better mileage in no time, not to mention that you'll be able to get a look inside your engine to make sure that everything is cleaned up and structurally sound.. and a head swap can be done by a n00b in a day, you seem to at least have a clue what you're talking about.
stnapycnaf
10-17-2007, 11:29 AM
if your b6 was only getting 40 mpg the motor must have been tired then.
My motor was very very tired. But from what I've heard ... HF's get around 40-50 MPG ... I rarely hear of anyone getting into the 50's regularly, so mine wasn't too bad for still getting 40-45 MPG while burning/leaking 3 quarts every thousand miles or so :icon16:
My motor was very very tired. But from what I've heard ... HF's get around 40-50 MPG ... I rarely hear of anyone getting into the 50's regularly, so mine wasn't too bad for still getting 40-45 MPG while burning/leaking 3 quarts every thousand miles or so :icon16:
civic lover
10-17-2007, 12:22 PM
:eek: think about this... mileage on the engine also affects fuel mileage overall.. meaning that putting a new cam into an old engine may not give you any really reliable results, especially if your engine is already running on "E", if you know what I mean... (pun intended)
I tell ya tho, for ANY D-series swap, you don't need to change the tranny... and I happen to have a B6 head and intake laying around in my old bedroom at my dad's house, nothing wrong w/ it, just took it off to get a look inside the engine, didn't like it, and swapped it for an A6 head.
PM me if you'd like the head, intake, and stock HF ECU, pretty much, just clean it up, bolt it on, and you'd be good to go, other than the MPFI wiring, which you don't really need to do, you could always just put your DPFI intake on the head, and everything will still work fine.
If you were to swap your car over to MPFI, you'd need another dizzy, I gave the one that came off it to a friend of mine for his LX/Si swap (HF and Si dizzy's are exactly the same.)
So basically, buy my head, stick your intake and dizzy on it, and you'll be getting better mileage in no time, not to mention that you'll be able to get a look inside your engine to make sure that everything is cleaned up and structurally sound.. and a head swap can be done by a n00b in a day, you seem to at least have a clue what you're talking about.
I totally understand where you are coming from with the motor running on E, but my motor is somewhat fresh. I re-ringed, put new lowerend bearings in her, and cleaned up the head (carbon deposits on the head) all about 45,000 miles ago, so she is still pretty fresh. As for buying your b6 stuff... I had said early I have all the stuff to do that and I don't have an axtra car for my 4g to be out of service for a few days. I am just looking for a quick swap that might net me with a few MPGs. If you are thinking well go with some bolt ons... Already have a header and MSD iginition.
I tell ya tho, for ANY D-series swap, you don't need to change the tranny... and I happen to have a B6 head and intake laying around in my old bedroom at my dad's house, nothing wrong w/ it, just took it off to get a look inside the engine, didn't like it, and swapped it for an A6 head.
PM me if you'd like the head, intake, and stock HF ECU, pretty much, just clean it up, bolt it on, and you'd be good to go, other than the MPFI wiring, which you don't really need to do, you could always just put your DPFI intake on the head, and everything will still work fine.
If you were to swap your car over to MPFI, you'd need another dizzy, I gave the one that came off it to a friend of mine for his LX/Si swap (HF and Si dizzy's are exactly the same.)
So basically, buy my head, stick your intake and dizzy on it, and you'll be getting better mileage in no time, not to mention that you'll be able to get a look inside your engine to make sure that everything is cleaned up and structurally sound.. and a head swap can be done by a n00b in a day, you seem to at least have a clue what you're talking about.
I totally understand where you are coming from with the motor running on E, but my motor is somewhat fresh. I re-ringed, put new lowerend bearings in her, and cleaned up the head (carbon deposits on the head) all about 45,000 miles ago, so she is still pretty fresh. As for buying your b6 stuff... I had said early I have all the stuff to do that and I don't have an axtra car for my 4g to be out of service for a few days. I am just looking for a quick swap that might net me with a few MPGs. If you are thinking well go with some bolt ons... Already have a header and MSD iginition.
CivicSpoon
10-17-2007, 02:03 PM
Just learn how to drive it properly, and keep the revs down to a minumum. Check tire pressure constantly, make sure to keep up on your tune ups. You drive a Honda, not some beat up old american gas guzzling car; so you're already getting better gas mileage that most people out there. Downgrading to a weaker engine is pointless and could hurt you in the end. I know I use up more gas than I should in my '94 CX (70hp stock) from simply having to rev the damn thing to get it to move at all.
Christ
10-18-2007, 01:00 AM
the MPFI swap only takes about an hour of wiring, and however long it takes you to put the manifold on.. the HF's fuel mileage comes from the low-flow/hi-velocity intake manifold design, and the EGR system that was employed on such a small 8 valve engine.
Basically, do whatever you can to get your power band in the lowest range possible w/o modifying the fuel or air intake systems... opening up your exhaust WON'T do that for you.. you need backpressure to keep a good burn @ low RPM's. better ignition system might help out a lil bit... other than all that's been said, it's all about technique.
Basically, do whatever you can to get your power band in the lowest range possible w/o modifying the fuel or air intake systems... opening up your exhaust WON'T do that for you.. you need backpressure to keep a good burn @ low RPM's. better ignition system might help out a lil bit... other than all that's been said, it's all about technique.
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