Valve adjustment on '64 289ci

Hey guys I am working on a 64 Galaxie 289 . The guy had the all the machine done for a basic rebuild. Now the question is. How do you adjust the valves. I do mostlly GM stuff and the Fords that I have worked on before you just tightened down the rocker arms and you were done.
But on this 64 motor, it has rockers similar to a GM rocker.:confused: I am wanting to know a little more before I go into this motor and end up wiping a cam lobe because the lifters were to tight.:eek:
Keep in mind this motor is stock all the way around. nothing fancy.:sleep:

Go to your library and check out a Chilton's manual. They would have the correct prodedure for rocker assembly.

Gottem adjusted, I just did it like my Chevrolet stuff worked out fine. I turned the rocker nut until the push rod just barely had any play and then turned it another 1/2 turn. Worked great.

I'm glad you got her fixed.

Actual distance would be 1 full turn made in 1/4 intervals with engine warmed up and running. You are part way there. Only problem it creates is lifter is not fully loaded and valves may not open 100% of recommended travel. Unless you have not replaced the lifters or pushrods 1/2 turn might be barely adequate enough to get you by, but high engine revs could leave you floating or burning exhaust valves.

That's interesting. I believe I only tightened them 1/2 turn. But this motor is not a high rev motor. Just a plain stcok 289. I probablly will turn the lifters down another 1/2 trun and see if it runs better. Thanks, for the info. Now before I forget does it matter if it isn't the factory lifters and cam????? They are aftermarket replacements.

As long as you haven't changed to a solid lifter or performance enhanced cam shaft, it should make no difference. Any special instructions should have come with the new parts. If no instructions were provided then the stock settings will prevail.

As long as you have not changed to a solid lifter cam set, all standard settings should prevail.

Make sure your manufacturer has not prescribed other settings in the set you purchased.

Just be sure you loosen the rocker till it starts to rattle, then turn it just until it becomes quiet, turn 1/4 turn at a time and let the engine run for about 5 -10 seconds between turns to allow the lifters to adjust internally. When engine smooths out you can make another turn till 1 full turn is made. Do this for each lifter, one at a time

CAUTION: Tightening too many turns can wipe the lobes off the camshaft.

CAUTION: Tightening too many turns can wipe the lobes off the camshaft.Yes I do know this, that is way I was asking questions before I ran the motor any. The car has been driven quite alot since I put the motor together.The car does run good, but it does act like it could some more tuning, So maybe by readjusting the lifters, will help the car run better.
Thanks for the info.

If you are useing a stock distributor, Be sure to adjust the points from .015 to .020.

Always use a good heavy duty brand of points, rotor, condensor and a distributor cap with brass contacts and not aluminum.

Weak points will bounce and create weak dwell timing.

Cheap rotors can burn and oxidize quickly.

Cheap condensor will not build up and store adequate fire power from the coil.

Cheap distributor caps will burn contacts and track fire across terminals resulting in earlier failure.

Several companies offer high performance distributor parts at most auto parts stores.

If this is the original distributor, You may want to check the point gap on all cam lobes. Set the gap on one lobe and then turn the distributor to see if the other lobes give the same reading. These wear and if any lobes give you an out of spec. reading, other what you originally set, then you should replace the dist. ( Do not use the points and condensor that may come with the new dist ( they are totally unreliable ) unless you purchased an after market performance dist.

Wow, I really appreciate the info your giving me. The dist. Is the factory one. The car only had 60,000 original miles on it when it was literally pulled out of the barn. And barely driven when it was driven.and 60,100 when the motor was pulled for a rebuild, the only reason it needed rebuilt was because My friend didn't change the old oil (at least 5 years)before he started driving it and got one of the rods knocking. So I am hoping the distributor isn't worn out. I will definately check all that out. Last time I was able to look at it , some of the spark plugs weren't seated properly and letting some blow by come out around the plugs. So I took them all out and checked them out and made sure to get them seated properly this time. Started running better after that.
I only get to work on it from time to time since it belongs to my buddy. And he lives 25 miles away.

Small block Fords have been my favorites for 40 years. I had a 64 Falcon 2dr post. I installed a 302 I built. Had 2 Carter AFB's with progressive linkage ( 2, 4, 6 or 8 barrels. Would pull wheelies and would out run Trans AMs and Dodge Super Bees!!! Just reply to this sight if you have any questions.