Rebuild questions

Ok so I don't have all the money in the world and can't get all the shit that I'd like to get so...Here's what I'm doing. I don't ever plan on running more than 22-23psi. I'm actually going to be down-grading my turbo from a 16g to a 14b because the 16g has a tremendous amount of shaft play and the 14b is in mint condition with a better looking exhaust side (no cracks or anything). I'm going to need to take my 'revised' 4g63 bare block that has been sitting in the garage forever to a machine shop, along with the newer crank because it has accumulated a rust-like substance on it from sitting forever.
Questions...

How are Fel-Pro gaskets? Because I purchased a complete upper and lower set already. They come with every gasket and seal imaginable. Like I said I don't ever plan on running a huge turbo with lots of boost.

When I get the block machined, I don't have to get any special or different sized bearings, right? I'm not stroking it or modifying it. Just getting it cleaned up.

The oil pump out of the revised motor doesn't seem to be in good condition. The shaft doesn't seem to want to spin freely and it makes a clicking sound. I can't remember if this is normal or not. Should I just re-use the oil pump on the CW'd motor? And yes, I know it needs primed before first start-up.

As for the timing belt...Should I just go with an expensive Mitsu OEM? Or like a Gatorback that's way cheaper? I know Gatorback is suppose to make good belts, but this is the most crucial belt on the motor...

I'm going to also need a new waterpump, timing belt tensioner, head studs, main studs, etc. Are these parts ok to purchase on E-Bay? Anyone ever have any problems with parts like these from E-Bay?

I just need to get my car back on the road ASAP, but I don't want to cut corners and go the cheapest route because I'm going to take my time with this rebuild and make sure it lasts another 156,xxx miles :) As for the turbo, are the turbine wheels the same or different from a 14b to a 16g? I know the compressor wheels are. I haven't got a chance to pull my 16g off yet to compare. Anyone here currently have a 14b on their car? If so, how is it compared to the stock T-25? How much boost is it good for, how fast does it spool and does it pull decent?

Thanks for any help guys.

Steve

I think you should be fine with fel-pro gaskets. Even with the head gasket since you are going with head studs. Just make sure you torque them right, use the provided moly lube and follow the directions and you should be fine.

The oil pump you are trying to spin, is the case off the car? Does it have the balance shaft or stubby shaft on it? This centers the gears and if it's not there it is clunky when you rotate it. I would get a new front case with gears with a rebuild anyway.

I used a gatorback for a few thousand miles with no problem except it got oil soaked. When I changed it i decided to go with OEM for the piece of mind. My build right now will also get a OEM. It just makes sense as it's the most proven timing belt for DSM's.

Lookup www.partsdinosaur.com for your timing belt and water pump stuff. Great business to order from. Excellent prices.

Good luck.

Just a good rule of thumb. Any time you are tearing down a motor for rebuild, you ALWAYS replace the oil pump. ALWAYS. It is the singlemost important part on your entire car.

As far as studs and what not. You should be fine buying those off e-bay. I would suggest ARP studs and clevite bearings. They are a bit more expensive than OEM but even for a stock rebuild they are some added insurance.

I was looking on PartsDinosaur and noticed that some parts, like the oil and waterpump are from ITM Engine Components. I've never heard of this company. Are they reputable? What's the quality like? Also, the timing belts are made from Flennor. Again, good company or not? I don't want to build this motor and have it lock up an oil pump or spin a bearing on startup...or at all for that matter.

Thanks for any help

Steve

You don't have to buy those parts from him. I bought the timing belt auto tensioner, and all the timing pulleys from him and also the full engine gasket kit. Three years ago I bought an auto tensioner from him as well as full engine gasket kit and those two items held up just fine.

I would check out www.maperformance.com and extremepsi.com for most of your other rebuild parts.

Use only OEM Mitsu oil pump covers and gears too. And if you plan to run big HP and high rpm you should research the 90 straight cut gears. I had a bunch of trouble with the side load from helically cut gears forcing the gears through the oil pump cover. But that's a whole different topic.

16g and 14b have the same turbine wheel (TDO5H), and the housings are interchangeable despite being different sizes (6cm for 14b and 7cm for 16g). If the 16g housing isn't too bad, swap it on the 14b for a little more top end and reduced knock propensity. A few cracks around the WG are normal, and harmless if they don't increase lag. The 14b makes for a real nice upgrade over a t25. IIRC, full boost came in around 3000 rpm, and it would make 24-25 psi on a mild setup. With a well setup car it would be down in the teens at redline due to its 30 lb/min limit. For comparison, the T25 is around 24 lbs/min IIRC, and the small/big/EVO 16g will do ~35/38/42 lbs/min, repsectively. My best on a T25 was in the mid 13s, best on the 14b was in the mid 12s at around 110, on a small/big 16g on two different cars I went 12.0x at 115-116, and on an EVO16g my bests were 12.2 at 113 on pump and 12.0 at 115 on race. It's pretty clear that the 14b is far better than a T25, and don't give up too much to a regular 16g. EVO16g (especially EVO 8-9, but irrelevant for DSMs) is by far the best turbo in this category.