No Start (Fuel Pump Question...)

Hello-
I know this is a fairly common occurance on our cars, and I've been doing some research on correcting the problem (searching through the countless posts on this problem). It is your typical no start (engine turns over, acts like it is going to start, but never does). And it is not due to a heat spell (Main Relay). However, I have noticed that when I turn the key to the 'On' position the fuel pump DOES NOT run for 2 seconds and I DO NOT hear the Main Relay 'click'. Last night I removed the Main Relay and tested continuity hoping it was the culprit, but unfortunatley it was working fine. This leads me to believe that it could possibly be the fuel pump (car has 255k miles). Tomorrow, I am hoping to test power running to the fuel pump under the rear seat, before I spend the money on a new fuel pump. But if the fuel pump went bad, shouldn't the Main Relay still click like it is supposed to?

Now, I was curious if anyone had any ideas on any other minor things I might have overlooked? I have not "actually" tested for spark, but the rotor, dizzy, wires, and plugs are in decent shape. I've looked over most of my fuses and none appear to be blown. The main reason I'm focused in on the Main Relay/Fuel Pump problem is because I do not hear the usual humming of the fuel pump and the click of the main relay prior to start up. Could there be some minor switch I've missed checking? Or something in the ignition switch that is not sending power to the main relay? And this is on a virgin Civic (no mods of any kind). Any help, ideas, or suggestions would be appreciated.

(I know people tend to over-post these commons problems, without first diagnosing certain things themselves. I've checked some of the things believed to be the problem, but I'm not going to be able to work on it for a few days. And it will help to have some other people's opinions on what it could possibly be, so that when I go to work on it, I will have ideas of what to check.)

Thanks in advance!

if the fuel pump was bad, and the main relay was good, you still should hear it click, i would check fuses.

second that... check fuses, and even tho you've electrically tested the relay, check it w/ a few from the junkyard... I dont know how many times things have passed electrical testing, and when it comes to real use, they fail miserably.

yeah. with the main relay it not that the connections break, its that the solder points crack and cant carry the current, They will usually pass a continuity test.

in my LX, once in awhile, it would just not work... not on hot days either... just once in awhile, you could crank and crank and crank all day, and it wouldn't work.. had to turn the key on, then off, then on, and listen for the click... if you didn't hear the click, no start.

Usually, I'd wait about 10 seconds after I turned the key off, and turn it back on, and it would work fine, but I've seen worse cases.

sounds lik my mainrelay before it crapped out... leaving me stranded in a parking lot for 4 hours at 230am in a blizzard..

My crx would do it sometimes too, started one summer in the heat. but later I would have to literally turn the key all the way back and turn it a second time, would usually always work the second time.

Ok...Here is an update from today's work:

1) The fuel pump still works (I ran power back from the main relay connector and it kicks on). I tested the grounds and they are ok.

2) I've jumped 1,3, and 7 (on the main relay connector) and the car still doesn't want to start (once it is jumped, I can hear the fuel pump kick on as well as the injectors pumping).

3) When I jumped the wires w/ the main relay attached it would click and click, but the car still would not start.

4) I've verified that I AM getting spark (with the main relay jumped and fuel pump/injectors pumping). - It seems soooo close to starting but it just does not.

5) I double and triple checked all my fuses and all are good.

6) I've noticed when I turn the key 'On', no lights (including the check engine) come on the dash (with just the main relay hooked up).

So...it has to be either the main relay, ecu, or ignition.

*Main Relay - I'ved tested it for continuity and they all pass. I know just b/c they pass the continuity test doesn't mean it is going to work in my car. Even by jumping the main relay, I still can't get it to start.

*ECU - Fuse is good...When the key is turned to 'Start' I can see the light (on the ecu) flash. But when I jump the blue connector to look for trouble codes I don't get anything. And the check engine light does not come on when the key is turned to 'On'.

*Ignition - haven't played around with awhole lot, but it doesn't "seem" to be this.

Now two things that have me puzzled:

#1 - I went through the fuse box in the engine compartment checking for power. All of the wires were pulling power in the 'On' position except these three circled in the picture below:
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g303/jimmym86/100_4820123.jpg
***I had the ECU Fuse removed to test for continuity, incase anyone notices.
Are these supposed to to drawing power?

#2 - I tested where the ECU fuse sits for continuity (with the Ignition Switch 'On' and I was NOT getting continuity there (which might be part of the problem).

I'm hoping someone might notice something I overmissed. I think at this point I can tell it is nothing major, but more likely something small and stupid I've overlooked. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks-
Jimmy

well, you shouldn't have to jump anything for trouble codes.. turn key to "on" and it will display them for you.

Yeah there is no blue wire to jump, if you have a code the light in the ecu will blink.

Does anyone happen to know if the two wires coming from the connector in the picture above should have continuous power or how much they should be pulling in the 'On' position?

The two in question are Black/Yellow and Green/Red...I tested again and they have no power in the 'Off' position, but in the 'On' position they are pulling very very little power (.08) compared to the others (12+) in the fuse box.

I've seen the Black/Yellow wire show up in the Ignition Switch as well as the Main Relay. So depending on how much juice they should be pulling, it may be part of the problem...

Thanks guys...

im having same problems, did you figure it out yet. That connector i think is just a central connection point for all wires going to the main relay to power the fuel pump side, I am going to check mine out tomorrow, hopefully i find the problem. I will let you know.

I had the same problem when i got my '88 crx hf. It would turn over and start up for half a second and then die. I didn't hear the fuel pump running so I just ran a positive wire to a toggle switch to the fuel pump. I turned it on and it started and stayed running. Ive put 15,000 miles on it since ive had it and now it has 348,500.

I just bought an '89 crx dx. The oil plug is stripped so i imagine the engine is blown.

email me if u have any questions. [email protected]

my bad wrong email address its new!!! [email protected]


the other email is my old one and dont work anymore

The oil plug?!

yup, came across that alot when I was working for sear's... oil plugs get overtorqued, and it strips them out.. they'll still hold the oil in, just nearly impossible to get them out w/o pulling the pan off... sear's wouldn't touch them, just send them to another mechanic.

Unless you mean it's rounded off, in which case, I recommend that you go to Sear's and get a $15 set of "Bolt-Out" tools.. they're basically inside reverse drill bits that will lock on to the bolt and turn it.

Im just saying how the hell do you assume the engine is blown because the drain plug is stuck?

wow.. how the hell did I miss that...