Body Control Module ?

Hi and thanks for looking at my post.
here's my problem.
98 Caravan i just got from a neighbor.
Dash gauges drop out, go on and off, door locks cycle.
I did a search first and saw the post for the bad solder in the cluster, tried it no change.
I found that along with the gauges dropping out, the rear wiper, headlights, power door locks don't work as well.
I currently have the dash apart and i'm going to put it all back together and see if those things work when the gauges do.
The gauges are on and off alot But the van runs while they go on and off.
I was going to try and pull the IOD fuse but i don't see anything labeled that in the fuse panel under the hood.

So anyhow in thinking its probably the BCM and i have a question.
I read in one of the posts that the mileage displayed is somehow connected with the BCM and if i change it out my mileage will change as well.
Is this correct?
Any thing i should look out for when looking for a replacement BCM?

Thanks
Tony

Could well be the BCM but before you go there make sure your battery has a good charge and the battery posts and engine/chassy ground connections are shinny clean. The electronics on these vans are sensative to power fluctuations and low voltage created by a weak battery and/or loose/corroded connections.

The IOD fuse is in the PDC next to the battery. Should be labeled IOD Memory and should have a yellow plastic casing with tabs to aid in removal. That's what I see on my 96 at least and we're in the same generation van.

The dealership or a shop with that capability has to set the mileage using an advanced scanner when you change the BCM. Make sure you get the exact same part number BCM. Some model years have several. If you get a mismatch, you may see some features are inop. Shop around for a BCM. The pricess vary quite a bit. There are places out there that will repair your BCM for around $200. Course that means you're without it for a week or two.

Well here's the latest.
I re soldered the connections on the gauge cluster.
I found the IOD fuse and pulled it to reset everything.
I did however discover that the Negative battery cable was very loose. And i did read in a few posts that that can causes the problem that i had.
I mean it was really loose wobble loose.
So i did find the IOD fuse pulled it
and pulled the harness to the BCM
reconnected everything
And everything working fine now.
So because i had sort of a mass attack on the problem i really don't know which one took care of the problem.
So me and the wife got the Bissel Steam cleaner out did the insides and now she has a nice 98 Caravan with a little over 100k on it. The outsides look like new and the insides as well now.
A nice Calif. car for $2000


Thanks for the help and the info from the other posts.
My neighbors took this thing to the dealer and they wanted to replace the circuit board in the dash and if that didn't fix it then the BCM.

Glad to hear you're on the road again. Thanks for the added info.

AH hell
The problem returned...
Here's whats out
the cluster
headlights... But the high beams will flash if you pull back the mf switch
wipers
door locks

i pulled the cluster checked wiring in the column and BCM
pulled the IOD fuse disconnected the battery as well and still no dash gages, no lights.
So i guess i will have to replace the BCM.
Anybody know where do get one?
i would like to get one flashed for my van and install and send mine back to them if possible.
Thanks
for the assistance

Tony

Here's one: http://bbb-carb.com/chrycomputer.htm

Search the forum. They are there...somehwere.

Usually, if the speedometer and other guages drop to zero, but the engine still runs then this is a break in the communications between the BCM and the dash cluster. On two different vehicles, this happened to me and re-soldering the connections on the cluster solved it. The connections get "ring-cracked" you usually need a magnifying lens to see them.
Also, the odometer my read "no buss" during the lack of communications time.

The BCM can also get bad solder connections, but unfortunately this is not a job for the home mechanic. This thing is filled with sticky epoxy and by the time you get it out, you have damaged the little surface mount parts inside the BCM.
I wouldn't get a used BCM, I would pay the 200 to 300 to get the old one repaired. You can do it through Autozone, but make sure that you take the VIN # and mileage in with you AND make sure that they put the VIN # and mileage on the repair form. Otherwise, you will be waiting a long time and then may not get the propper program in the computer, resulting in certain items not functioning propperly (ABS, and who knows what else).

hey ,
was reading this post and wanted to jump in and ask

i have a friend that needs a new bcm ,diagnosed by chrysler,because of a theft sysem problem,not letting it start at times....
they told her that the bcm has to be installed first before programming it.
is that true? or can autozone repair it and program it...
cuz we can install it if thats the case and save like millions,lol. of dollars compared to what chrylser wants.

thanks in advance
joe d

Autozone doesn't actually program it. They send it to another company, which repairs and programs it as needed. But, as long as you include your VIN # and mileage with the BCM when you send it in, they can program it, you can install it and your done.
It can also be programmed in the vehicle. Eirther way.

I knew it was to Good to be true.

I found a BCM on EBay
had it 2nd day shipped to me in calif.

They sent the wrong part the sent a ECU instead.

so they were real nice about and overnighted a new one.
The one i bought had 92k my van has 102k so nit to bad.
the new one they shipped had 99k so that was better.
BUT

I found out the hard way that the car has a passive alarm system...
Neighbors didn't mention it when we got it from them, and today when i went over and confirmed there was no alarm system the said there was not.
But there is an alarm system in the van.
I installed the bcm and now the alarm (that i wasn't aware i had) starts going off horn/lights flash/ engine cuts off.

So i have to bite the bullet and send the original bcm out the be rebuilt/reprogrammed.
The place is called Auto Computer Exchange
it in Fl.

So i guess i'll update the post in a week or so when i reinstall the rebuilt BCM

So anybody looking for a BCM code 62AE with out alarm/with power door locks

Thanks
tony

So here's a new question
If this thing has an alarm/ and power door locks
should it also have remotes too?

Someone let me know please.
Im going to try and search am answer as well

thanks again Tony

Where is the body control module located?

Third gen vans have the BCM under the bottom trim panel on the left side of the steering column.

I wanted to update this even though its been three years.
It turns out the car doesn't have the anti theft.
The bcm that i got did and was lighting up the icon on the dash.
So the BCM didn't work for me and i sent it back
I got the original BCM rebuilt i installed it but then i had to have it flashed at the dealer For $800 bucks. They didn't even kiss me.

OK so now warp to present day...

The things acting up again.

Started acting like it had a low battery.
I charged it and had it checked and its fine.
It finally died on my wife yesterday and i went and jumped it and got it home.
Charged it and it wouldn't start at all like a dead battery.
BUT its acting real funny sounds like relays are clicking under the dash under the hood the eclectic system is freaking out.


So I'm trying to figure it out AGAIN.

Tinner

I got the BCM back from the rebuilders.
They reflowed it.
I instaled it and everyhting looked good dash lit up not freaking out.
But still no start
i thought it might be the battery i checked it was only 7 volts charged it and still nothing. I even had the cahrger on it in the start mode. just the click from the starter area.
No codes either.
I pulled the charger off and ate dinner went out to roll up the window and it wouldn't do it unless the charger was hooked to the battery.
So I'm taking the batteru to Sears to have it checked tomorrow.
If thats not the problem i'm done.


tinner

Good lord, you've been through the ringer on this one. Please tell me the $800 was for the BCM and the flash and not just the flash. Either way that's too much but if it was just for the re-flash I'd be looking for the number to the State Attorney General's office.

Clicking relays are a symptom of low voltage. Sure hope a new battery takes care of this.

OK here's the final solution. (for Me)

My symptoms were
passengers side power lock started acting up.
The wife said that the dash went dead for a couple seconds but cleared up.
( i resoldered the cluster before)
then it was acting like it had a low battery in the morning.
I hit it with the charger and it seemed OK for a week or so.
I took it to Sears had the battery checked.
its was OK and I watched him do a load test it was OK too.
then one day at the post offiice it wouldn't start.
I went and jumped it got it home and that was it no more start even with a jump.


What I did
cleaned the posts connectors
pulled the started and made sure it was OK
ran down the ground to the block cleaned it up.
It wouldn't do anything even with a boost on the battery.
it did seem as if there wans't enough power getting to the BCM or the starter, clicking relays etc.
So this morning i got a bunch of info printed out and was going to tackle it and find where the power was not getting thru.

But like i nsaid in my last post i was going to take the battery back to have it checked out again.
Got to start from #1 right.
Well its shot it had 13 volts but when he did a load test this time it went to less that a volt and recovered a about 6 volts.
BINGO

So I got home buttoned everything up installed the battery
TA DAAAA


Started right up.
calibreted the ac/fan and its done

going to let the Missus run it a couple days and see if it throws any codes.
If it does I'll post.

Tinner

OK
there's still some problems.
The dash works gauges wise, but no night lighting.
Headlights work
no turn signals
no hazards
no radio
brake lights YES
running lights in rear PASSENGERS SIDE ONLY.
I checked all the fuses under the dash.
Any suggestions?

tinner

signals/ hazards working now.... relay was lose.

Will pull the dash tomorrow and see what up with the lights.

I got out today at the crsck of noon to tackle the tail light problem.
So no running lights on the drivers side.
BTW the turn signals work
I have the scematic but this is my weak link.

I checked the bulbs they are OK
(looks like below is for the turn signals?)
then checked voltage
grn/red to blk 0 volts
wht/tan to blk 0 volts

I checked the black to make sure it was grounded it was.

so this is where i will need some help.

So am i safe in assuming that the running lights get all their power from the combo relay?

What do i need to check?

Thanks

Tinner

Nevermind...
was looking at the schem and say that the left side gets it power from the same source as the lic. plate light..
i never noticed it wasn't on because the rear door was open while i was worknig back there.
So i had no lic plate light

checked the fuse and it was bad changed it and they are working.

tinner

Glad to hear it. Dash lights work too?