Spark Plug Replacing on 96 Firebird

Hi there AF folks <wave>.

Been out of country for a bit (job related) and I am now going to do the dreaded spark-plug change that I was going to do like 2 months ago (I parked it until I got back).

I got the reccomended (from you guys--:grinno: ) the AC delco plugs and have all the tools/harware to do the job.

So I am gathering all this info on this and other sites on how to get to all of them. I just wanted to ask what all of you suggest is the current way to replace all the little buggers. As just about everyone knows there is NOT a whole lot of room to work with. I have seen several options...

1. Put the front on jacks, the back plugs can be reached from there.
2. Remove the alternator.
3. Lay on the top of the block and fish your arm down with at least a couple of swivel-heads on your wrench.
4. Leave the parts out and pray little mechanic goblins do it (Ok so i'm reaching on that one).

If this turns out to be a pretty decent project I just might post some pics to warn others what they are in for--:rolleyes: .

Thanks all.

I dont remember if a 96 is overall the same layout, not sure but I did mine by fishing my arm around with a swivel ratchet. then again, mine is a V6, on V8 I know that its easier if you remove the wheels and reach them from underneath. good luck.

Just as a follow up for any searches:

Completed the spark-plug change. Plugs #2, 4, and 6 I got to from the top without any real problems. #8 I got to from under the car by jacking it up with a standard floor jack and stand. Now the problem was the other side. #1, 3, 5, and 7 was reached from the top but #7 is a bear as you need to have some pretty thin hands to get to it. I tried from the bottom but there is way too much stuff in the way to get any tools in there. I did loosen the alternator to move it up a bit but not totally out to get to #1.

In all, a short extention (@ 1-2 inch), deep plug socket, 3/8" drive and a swivel was used.

Hope it helps someone---:grinyes:

no swivel, two sized extensions, a 14 mm nonplug- deep socket, a plug socket and a jack.

under 1 hour now!

ive had my car for ~1 year and i changed the plugs.. 4 times or so..

from the top, non jacked up, do the driver side front 3. use the longer extension.. then the passenger, do the two middles.. use the same extension. front passenger side, get ON the engine to change it, use your right hand, and hook it around the EGR stuff. trust me, its WAYY easier then any other way.

last two, jack up the bottom, one side uses the smaller extension, the other the big one.

nothing else removed, no positioning of alternator/ battery/ anything!

use the non-spark plug deep socket to put IN..cuz the spark plug sockets (mine) get jammed when i tighten the things up.
it works! :D

ahhh the fourth gen mythical 8th and 7th cylender spark plugs. gotta love that raked back windsheild.

pretty much you guys nailed it on the head. only way to do it, is the hard way. although, there used to be a guy on ebay, who sold a modified socket for getting those pesky devils out using a regular 3/4in wrench. the socket was cut short, and drilled out so that the spark plug stuck through it, but the socket fit on the hex head of the spark plug. then you brought in the wrench, flush with the cylender head, and popped the suckers loose. i got one for my iroc, once i put headers on, the little buggers were nearly impossible to get to without it.

Thanks a lot everyone. Great advice all around. My Formula works much better with the new plugs...:)