Stalling Problem - No Codes

I have a 2001 LS V6

Brief Story -

I ran out of gas & fried the fuel pump.
Replaced the fuel pump.
Now I have a stalling problem.

The car runs fine then bam, rpms just fall steadily until the car stalls.
I put it in park, turn the key. She fires right back up like nothing happened.
It will do this inermedently (Spelling?) meaning there's no specific trigger.

Any thoughts?

I read all 27 pages of this forum & couldn't find any related topics other then the stalling issues.

The one that's sounds the most promising is a weak battery, which from what I read can cause a bunch of strange problems.

I need some help guys - I've got three mechanics looking at my car & scratching their heads.

Thanks in advance

Have any of the mechanics replaced the fuel filter and checked the fuel pressure? If you ran the pump dry, you may have sucked up some of the dirt and debris from the bottom of the tank, restricting the filter.

-Rod

I don't think so. If it was a clogged fuel filter wouldn't the car be running really rough?

The car runs fine up until it stalls out.
The pressure has been checked and it's running at 40psi
We ruled out a defective fuel pump by yanking out the secondary curcuit that supplies power to the pump. The psi slowely drops, the car starts running rough then stalls. The stalls I'm expereincing are abrubt.

All of a sudden my rpms just start plumeting then the car stalls. The lose of power doesn't happen until the rpm's drop below 500

Jon

So the car may run fine for minutes, then randomly die?

This sounds similar to what my wife would experience with her 2002 V6 LS. Typically hers would die when she shifted from Park to Reverse or Reverse to Drive. It wouldn't stall for me when I drove it very often.

Reading over the forums, I decided to change out the PCV elbow. Not a trivial task, and when I got to it, the elbow seemed fine. I replaced it anyway, along with checking the spark plugs.

Put everything back together and the car seemed okay for two days, then it stalled again.

So I load tested the battery, desulfated it, and checked the charging system. Everything tested fine. Two days later, stalled again.

Changed the battery with one from O'Reilly Auto Parts, haven't had a problem since. That was about 6 months ago. O'Reilly's was the only place that listed a replacement battery for the 2002 LS other than the dealer, and the dealer wasn't open at 4pm Sunday. At the time, even Interstate Batteries didn't list the battery as available.

-Rod

The car runs for extended periods of time without stalling. The mechanic drove it for two hours yesterday & couldn't get it to stall once.
I took him for a ride the other day & it stalled out within 15min while he was in the car (What are the odds of that happening).
I read the battery post yesterday & walked (ran) over to the shop (It's next door to my job) and had'em check the battery. It checked out fine. I beleive it's the original battery that came with the car (01). I'm pretty sure the shelf life has expired. How much was the one from O'Reilly? Is it a factory Battery or Aftermarket?
These guys are cool enough to let me take home over the weekend a "flight recorder" (The Computer) plugged into my car. Apparently this computer has the ability to constantly record the data stream. Once the stall happens I press one button & it stores all information from 5 minutes before the stall. This seems like the only way they are going to be able to pin point the problem.

Thanks a ton for your responses dude.

If that battery is the original, it would be a good idea to replace it for no other reason than it is about to leave you stranded. From my experiences as well as the experiences of others on the forum, this would be a good place to start.

I think the battery from O'Reilly was around $75. It was their store brand, not a Motorcraft. The O'Reilly battery has the vent, but did not come with a vent kit and the store didn't know what I was asking for when I asked for the vent kit. The vent hole is a different size from the OEM so the car's vent didn't just plug in. For safety reasons, you're probably best off getting a Motorcraft battery from the dealer. Well, it was quite a while ago when I got the battery for my wife's, so it may be easier to find aftermarket now.

Hopefully the datalogger is configured to monitor and record the MAF voltage or air flow, the O2 voltages (at least the sensor 1 data) and the fuel injector pulse widths.

-Rod