Front brake rust problem

:grinyes::grinyes::grinyes: FIXED :naughty::icon16::smokin:
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I've got a serious rust problem on my 1990 Civic DX. The car has been parked in the grass for a couple years and the brakes and spindle (I think) are rusted to everything else. I got the the rear brakes free turning, and the front callipers loose enough to take the pads out, and also got the out the bolt that connects the line to the calliper. That's about as far as i can go. Everything else is rusted. I can't even remove the calliper bolts to change them!:shakehead
Helpfull tips anyone?

This car is REALLY not ready for the road, so new brakes are not in order yet. I just want it free so I can move the car under it's own power to the parking lot next door.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r300/modelfreakca/phpGPwjqAPM.png
Pics are up. Be warned. It is not pretty!!!!!! :frown::uhoh::shakehead:eek: *gasp*
...AND I forgot to mention yet again, the other side is exactly the same.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r300/modelfreakca/DSC08089.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r300/modelfreakca/DSC08092.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r300/modelfreakca/DSC08093.jpg

Get the calipers off and replace them, its not worth the risk. Then since the rotors sound like they are obviously unsavable, beat the shit out of them to get em off (after you remove those fun little screw with an impact hammer). The rear drum SHOULD just come off after the wheel, but if mine dont, yours definitely dont. Again, beat it senseless with lots of penetrating oil. there is also an 8mm bolt hole in the drum on the face, you can thread a bolt into it and use it for prying leverage. Hop that helps.

Those "fun little screws" are so simple to get out, just use an impact driver...one hit and they are out. You can pick up a cheap one at your local parts store for like $15-20. Put the right bit in it, and give it a good hit with a hammer, haven't had a rotor take more than one hit from it. When you put your new rotors in, you can forget about the screws because they have already served their purpose and you don't need them in there, your wheel, and caliper will hold the rotor in place.

As for the bolts holding the caliper, just get some penetrating oil and soak the shit out of them and hit it with an impact gun if you have access to one. If not, just try to use a big breaker bar(or cheater pipe) and keep popping it, not putting constant pressure on it.

Good luck.

I forgot to mention... the car is still in the grass.

Pics coming up later today...

for the back brakes, in the back of the drum backing plate, you will find a hole... inside that hole, there is an adjustment nut... it's more like a star wheel, actually... can't remember which way to turn it, but use it to loosen up the rear brake pads, that way you won't have to fight with them to get the drum off... since you'll probably be replacing the rear brakes as well, you'll have to readjust that star wheel when you put the new ones in, so it won't make a diff.

Quoting myself here:


I got the the rear brakes free turning...
So.. for the rear... I'm good.


EDIT: Pics are up ^^^ Top post

ah, yeah, that was mibad.. sry for that... and lol, your rust problem looks kinda like the '86 CRX I used for parts for my '85 :)

yea the rear was supprisingly simple... just 15 minutes per side with a hammer and constant hitting the drum until the rust got loose enought to move...

(no wonder my hands and back have been hurting for 2 days now!)

rofl... I had to use the adjustment star to get mine off... but the brake shoes were brand new on that car, so I used them on my '85, along w/ alot of other things... brand new urethane bushings on the car, but it was all rusted to hell...

Well, I went over to my car, hammered a few times on the brakes with a small hammer, and......



http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r300/modelfreakca/DSC08106.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r300/modelfreakca/DSC08105.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r300/modelfreakca/DSC08103.jpg



All it took was the car running, RPMs at 2 - 3k, and letting go of the clutch in one shot, to jerk everything (rust) loose. Still a bit rough moving though.

Drive it around a little itll work it free. Shouldnt take much, but be careful.

Im thinking of driving it across town at like 3am to bring it to a shop near my place. Going under (30kmh) the speed limit (50kmh) it should take about 15 minutes. Yes! 15 minutes to get all the way across town!!

The reason for 3am... no brakes (handbrake works, but locks the tires), no insurance, failed inspection 3yrs ago. At 3am... no cars, no cops, no bothers! lol