Heating Issue-Winter Coming-Please Help!
JESSICAR
10-08-2007, 04:44 PM
Hello
I have a 1995 Buick Park Avenue.
I am having an issue that is really agravating, and I really wish I could figure it out so I don't have to take to a service tech.. again....
All summer my air has been working stellar, meaning, if I put on 60-auto, it gets real nice and cool. Then if I slowly up the temp to say 72, it seems to not be as cool, and the fans slow down. That seems normal, or acceptable to me.
Now, here is my agravation, and I don't agree with this.
Its been getting cool out here in MInnesota--45 degrees in the morning. I will turn my AUTO on, adjust temp up to say 72...73...74....75.... The air feels still cool... 80......85..... still cool... 90 okay.. HOT. So I let it sit there for a few mintues sweating, thinking it needs to "catch up". I then slowly decrease the temp, 85... still warm... and sit a sec.. Ok.. down to 75. Drivers side warm.. Passenger side Cold! Which um, having cold comeout of the pass side, eventually mixes with that warm, and gives me all cool!
Now, I have replaced the passenger climate control in the door panel becuase it was not working when I got the car in April. I assumed that cleared the problem, but i've been using air so much this summer, I never noticed the heat issue. But with winter upon me, I really would like this to work correctly, and not have to have it sit on 90 and turn on and off when I get too hot.
Please someone help me figure this out!!!!!!!
I have a 1995 Buick Park Avenue.
I am having an issue that is really agravating, and I really wish I could figure it out so I don't have to take to a service tech.. again....
All summer my air has been working stellar, meaning, if I put on 60-auto, it gets real nice and cool. Then if I slowly up the temp to say 72, it seems to not be as cool, and the fans slow down. That seems normal, or acceptable to me.
Now, here is my agravation, and I don't agree with this.
Its been getting cool out here in MInnesota--45 degrees in the morning. I will turn my AUTO on, adjust temp up to say 72...73...74....75.... The air feels still cool... 80......85..... still cool... 90 okay.. HOT. So I let it sit there for a few mintues sweating, thinking it needs to "catch up". I then slowly decrease the temp, 85... still warm... and sit a sec.. Ok.. down to 75. Drivers side warm.. Passenger side Cold! Which um, having cold comeout of the pass side, eventually mixes with that warm, and gives me all cool!
Now, I have replaced the passenger climate control in the door panel becuase it was not working when I got the car in April. I assumed that cleared the problem, but i've been using air so much this summer, I never noticed the heat issue. But with winter upon me, I really would like this to work correctly, and not have to have it sit on 90 and turn on and off when I get too hot.
Please someone help me figure this out!!!!!!!
Goldlexus
10-08-2007, 08:42 PM
waiting to hear the responses you get. We are having the same problem, along with the fan blowing really hard when the auto is set at 75 and external temp is 45 there is suppose to be a delay when the fan comes on when the external temp is cold. I posted about it a week ago and no responses so far.
Blue Bowtie
10-08-2007, 11:11 PM
JESSICAR
10-09-2007, 03:08 PM
I may need to be clear, since I followed the link to the answer, and it seems you may think I have replaced something in the dash.
I have not replaced anythink in the glove box or dash. The only think I have replaced is the Passanger Side controls. It is a push button deal that sits in the passenger side door, near the hinge and up near the window. It allows the passenger to push heat or cool to adjust temp within 5 degrees of what the main temp is set at.
I had a "reset" I found months ago that someone posted, and it actually worked, but doesnt seem to work on it anymore. But this is what it was
Turn the car to on but don't start, press the OFF button on the heater two times
Turn Ignition Off-Wait 30 Seconds
Turn Ignition ON but don't start, wait 3 minutes then start vehicle.
Like I said this worked at one point, and I always wondered how? But it doesnt seem to be doing the trick anymore.
I have not replaced anythink in the glove box or dash. The only think I have replaced is the Passanger Side controls. It is a push button deal that sits in the passenger side door, near the hinge and up near the window. It allows the passenger to push heat or cool to adjust temp within 5 degrees of what the main temp is set at.
I had a "reset" I found months ago that someone posted, and it actually worked, but doesnt seem to work on it anymore. But this is what it was
Turn the car to on but don't start, press the OFF button on the heater two times
Turn Ignition Off-Wait 30 Seconds
Turn Ignition ON but don't start, wait 3 minutes then start vehicle.
Like I said this worked at one point, and I always wondered how? But it doesnt seem to be doing the trick anymore.
JESSICAR
10-17-2007, 10:05 AM
I wanted to leave a response as to what I found out regarding what was wrong with my heater.
Mechanic got a code 41 on the HVAC. Turns out it was the Acctuator. (Which I should have figured, since I could move it by hand, the new one you can not move)
The mechanic was getting power spikes and thought the programmer could also be faulty, but after replacing the Acctuator the power spikes went away. It is interesting to note that when we first bought this car, the passanger control located in the passanger door, was dead, no power, it could be possible that the acctuator killed that too.
When I first got in the car back however it seemed that the driver side was much cooler than the passenger, so the mechanic came out, unscrewed part of the bottom dash, and moved what I assume was a door that positions how much heat comes out. Problem solved!
The acctuator only costed us $60 (because my husband is affliated with CarQuest). However labor and diagnostics <hard swallow> came to $250. We also bought a keypad because my husband has some misunderstanding at what a "programmer" was. The keypad was used from Auto Salvage for $120.00 (non returnable). But hey, better than the programmer which is only available at the dealer for $700.00 (or you could take out of salvage car and hope that it works)
I did find out something very interesting during all of our research. You can have the keypad that is in the dash re-built here in Minnesota. There is a place called TransAuto located in Brooklyn Park, MN that told us they send them to Southern Minnesota and the rebuild cost is $100.00. I hope that can somehow save someone money if your keypad goes caput! Check around, or maybe you can even call TransAuto.
I really hope that this helps you out.
Mechanic got a code 41 on the HVAC. Turns out it was the Acctuator. (Which I should have figured, since I could move it by hand, the new one you can not move)
The mechanic was getting power spikes and thought the programmer could also be faulty, but after replacing the Acctuator the power spikes went away. It is interesting to note that when we first bought this car, the passanger control located in the passanger door, was dead, no power, it could be possible that the acctuator killed that too.
When I first got in the car back however it seemed that the driver side was much cooler than the passenger, so the mechanic came out, unscrewed part of the bottom dash, and moved what I assume was a door that positions how much heat comes out. Problem solved!
The acctuator only costed us $60 (because my husband is affliated with CarQuest). However labor and diagnostics <hard swallow> came to $250. We also bought a keypad because my husband has some misunderstanding at what a "programmer" was. The keypad was used from Auto Salvage for $120.00 (non returnable). But hey, better than the programmer which is only available at the dealer for $700.00 (or you could take out of salvage car and hope that it works)
I did find out something very interesting during all of our research. You can have the keypad that is in the dash re-built here in Minnesota. There is a place called TransAuto located in Brooklyn Park, MN that told us they send them to Southern Minnesota and the rebuild cost is $100.00. I hope that can somehow save someone money if your keypad goes caput! Check around, or maybe you can even call TransAuto.
I really hope that this helps you out.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026