up and running LINK

ok, so i just got back for a very interesting drive... i have a few pulls i would like to share with those of you who have acess to DSMLink.com

http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19483

Link to the forum...

first off your intake temps are like 129 degrees :0 thats a lot of heat your IC will have to try and displace. You should damn off your intake so you keep that heat away from the engine from getting back in.

Second that knock is almost nothing so don't worry too much about that right now when you get those IT down it should probably dissapear.

Also coolant temps are about 200. Thats ok but realistically you want about 189. You get 1 degree of timing pulled at 200. Try just pressure aircleaning your rad. Maybe some water wetter and if last comes then you can always get a 170 t stat and set the coolant offset 10 degrees.

Next you gotta change your captured value under props to your injector size and you need a wb logging to get good a/f ratios cause its really hard to tune without knowing your actual values.

Bastards... you two are making me jealous. How the hell are you getting 129* intake temps with a FMIC? And what is this "damning" you speak of Stevie?

I don't think I've ever seen a DSM that could stay under 200 degrees for any meaningful length of time. The front end design is just too shitty. The EVOs with their much better front ends run solid at 175, but under WOT you'll be over 200 by the end of a drag run. Losing the 1 degree over 206 (IIRC) is a non-issue for the most part, since you're tuning based on the end result (timing in the log) anyway. Keeping colant temps down is still always a good idea, but don't kill yourself trying to do something that DSMs just don't want to do. IMO of course, and YYMV.

I had a cool setup on the 2g for keeping intake temps down, I'll have to get pics on the POSR site at some point...

Bastards... you two are making me jealous. How the hell are you getting 129* intake temps with a FMIC? And what is this "damning" you speak of Stevie?
jealous? why!?! my intake temp is that high, because thats how F-ing HOT it is outside!!! yeah... cant even turn the boost controller up or down, w/o sweeting... much less walk from the door to the car... :banghead: temps on the gauge on my garage said 99* in the shade...

on a side note, i'm going to see if i cant make another pull later in the day after dark, when its a bet cooler outside... i saw a few other peoples logs with an 85* intake temp after starting with 100 at idle... could this be something wrong with my car? with the 60K service coming up, would the change in coolant bring down my coolant temp?

Bastards... you two are making me jealous. How the hell are you getting 129* intake temps with a FMIC? And what is this "damning" you speak of Stevie?

The INTAKE temperature is at the intake like literally right where your MAS reads. Its before the air gets past the IC. And as for the dam, I honestly believe its THE BEST DOLLAR PER HORSEPOWER mod you can do. I bought 3 dollars worth of aluminum sheeting and made the damn and it dropped my intake temps 30 degrees. Its a pretty amateur job but man it works awesome. Ill see if I can get a pic up for you thor.

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/Picture017.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j294/steviekallday/Picture016-1.jpg

Just take a cardboard piece out and a make a template and then use some tin snips and cut out your piece of metal. Keeps the heat from the engine completely out. !!!
Be careful the metal is REALLLY sharp thats why I used duct tape to protect against the edges.

jealous? why!?! my intake temp is that high, because thats how F-ing HOT it is outside!!! yeah... cant even turn the boost controller up or down, w/o sweeting... much less walk from the door to the car... :banghead: temps on the gauge on my garage said 99* in the shade...

on a side note, i'm going to see if i cant make another pull later in the day after dark, when its a bet cooler outside... i saw a few other peoples logs with an 85* intake temp after starting with 100 at idle... could this be something wrong with my car? with the 60K service coming up, would the change in coolant bring down my coolant temp?

The reason other peoples logs are higher at idle is because the heat gets trapped in and you suck some of it up but when you start moving the cool ambient air comes in from outside the car and as long as you have your intake dammed off your intake temps will drop right off.

If your FMIC is 85% efficient though, you really only get an 8 degree drop out of that 30.

For example, 130 degree intake temps, 14.5 psi at the turbo inlet, 16 psi at the turbo outlet, compressor efficiency at 70%, you get 327 degrees out of the turbo and into the FMIC, at 80% efficiency, 1 psi pressure drop, and an ambient temp of 80 degrees, you're looking at IC outlet temps of 129 degrees. Drop intake temps to 100 degrees (-30), and your outlet temp is 121.

So while reducing intake temps is a worth cause, don't expect significant performance gains. It's also worth noting, as I've mentioned many times in the past, if IC efficiency could be 100%, compressor efficiency and itake temps become completely irrelevant. Can't happen, but it illustrates the point. :)

Just take a cardboard piece out and a make a template and then use some tin snips and cut out your piece of metal. Keeps the heat from the engine completely out. !!!
Be careful the metal is REALLLY sharp thats why I used duct tape to protect against the edges.

do you think that if i did what you did, added a top, and sealed it all together, then added this:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195667
do you think all this work would be worth while... also need to "recharge" my K&N...

*any thoughts on the coolant change in 2k miles?* :popcorn:

** anyone have any tune tips from what can be seen on my log?**

well all i know is my dam works really well as it is and the hood acts as the top. So I don't know how much it will really help. As for the rad fluid just add some water wetter and get the normal mix.

yeah, i'mma do the rad right, along with the transaxle fluid, timming belt, and all that other shit... lol but i'll get some sheet aluminum and give this a shot on wednesday! think the "ram air" is worth it?

well it doesn't seem to hard. I'm not going to bother with it but Im not going advocate against it.

For example, 130 degree intake temps, 14.5 psi at the turbo inlet, 16 psi at the turbo outlet, compressor efficiency at 70%, you get 327 degrees out of the turbo and into the FMIC, at 80% efficiency, 1 psi pressure drop, and an ambient temp of 80 degrees, you're looking at IC outlet temps of 129 degrees. Drop intake temps to 100 degrees (-30), and your outlet temp is 121.
This is also why "cold air" setups on turbos are not worth it correct? I remember you touching on this earlier and I got into an arguement with one of my friends about it this summer but "Kevin said so" didnt back me up too well :p.

I like the info in this thread. I have a question though, dont those damns also help flow to the filter because once it gets there it doesnt have much elsewhere to go?

Yea they do Especially if you take out your headlight !