lock and other issues

i've got a 96 passport and are having a few problems with it, sorry for the newb post, but i couldnt find the answers i needed through the search.


first of all it is eating window regulators, my passenger went and had to be fixed the day after it the rear driver window went. also the passenger door lock will lock MOST of the time when i push the button other times it is unresponsive till i go push it down and then push the button again. we looked at it when the door was apart for the regulator and could not find the problem. the rear passenger door will unlock and lock with the rest of them but will not open unless you push it down and pull it back up. it also has the notorious tick but i have found some useful information on fixing that already on this board :) thanks in advance for any and all help with resolving these issues.

details on car:
1996 Honda Passport (Isuzu Rodeo) EX 4x4
157,000 miles
3.2L 24V v6
16x7 Alloys With Dunlop A/T's

install new lock motors ,you can use OEM or cheap aftermarket ones from ebay for $15 a pc. they work great but take longer to put in .

first of all it is eating window regulators, my passenger went and had to be fixed the day after it the rear driver window went. also the passenger door lock will lock MOST of the time when i push the button other times it is unresponsive till i go push it down and then push the button again.
Hey Andrew...
Just a couple of things I experienced with the 1995.5 passport I got a few months back:

First off the window regulators:
This truck (passport and rodeos) is known for eating regulators (or more specifically the plastic guides that the cables go around).
My truck had the passenger’s rear window half way down and unable to move either way… and the driver’s rear window real close to the same situation.
I found that all 4 regulators are different part numbers…
I also found out that you can get after market regulators all over the internet (Ebay being the cheapest) for the drivers and passengers front windows…
but you can’t find the rear ones anywhere except the dealer (EXPENSIVE) and the junkyard (if you are lucky).
If you do find one at the junkyard you have the same problem
so I chose to snag a couple of manual regulators at the junk yard and replace the electric ones in the back to avoid ever messing with them again.
I figured I was sitting in the front and having eclectic control over the two front windows was good enough for me.
Plus just having the back ones securely up was a huge accomplishment.
They bolted right in I just had to cut a hole in the panel for the handle. (looks factory and my kids don’t mind the exercise :wink:)

As for the door locks…
When I got the truck the driver’s door and the both back door locks were flakey…
sometimes they locked/unlocked all the way with the switch and sometimes they only went half way.
When I took the door apart I found that the little plastic piece where the rods met (and rotated) had just rotated with the rods and was loose.
I turned it ¼ turn clockwise to lock it in, and sprayed silicone on the pivot point....
They all work great now (unlock and lock fully every time with the switch):smokin:

i was thinking about getting my local sound/alarm shop to put in keyless entry. would the acutators that come with the kit he wants to install fix the locks like i guess would he replace the lock motors with those?

i was thinking about getting my local sound/alarm shop to put in keyless entry. would the acutators that come with the kit he wants to install fix the locks like i guess would he replace the lock motors with those?

No...
No keyess entry kit comes with any actuators...
The "brain" just wires into your wire harness and actuates your stock actuators to lock/unlock the doors when you hit the button.
Try taking your door panel off and locking/unlocking the doors and see if it is something visually obvious. Like I said; both my door lock problems were nothing more that the plastic interconnect piece had become loose.

okay i will take it apart when i have some time.
and the guy at my shop was going to sell me the actuators and the brain thing i think
atleast thats what he said lol
thanks for the replies

I have another question...does anyone know does the seal on the back of the front hub assembly need to be in flush or does it stick out a bit?

and does anyone have some aisin hubs for my truck they'd like to sell? I've read about people having issues with the superwinch ones.

Im having a problem with my locks on my 95 rodeo. When i push the unlock button all but one door unlocks but from this thread i think i can fix that part, And if i push it they unlock but if i push it again they dont lock