Will Not Start

91 Regal, 42k Original Miles, Was Fathers Car. Started Vehicle For Warm Up, Went To Leave And Quit Running. Found 10amp Fuse In Fuse Center Under Hood For Pfi Blown. Replaced Fuse And It Blew When I Tried To Start. Waited 3 Days, Tried Again With New Fuse, It Cranked Fine. Went 10 Miles And It Quit, Fuse Blown. Had Wrecker Bring Home, Checked Pfi Circuit All Way To Upper Intake @ Injectors, Check All Connections And Used Ohm On Injectors And Connectors, All Appears Ok. Left Injectors Unplugged And Turned Engine Over, Fuse Ok. Connected Injectors ONE @ A TIME, As Soon As Tried To Start, Blows Fuse Again. I Need Your Help!!!!!!!!!! I'm Lost.....

Try connecting 1 injector at a time & see which one is blowing the fuse.

you can ohm check each individual injector, adn replace any that are way off from the rest. Also check the injector, engine and ECM harnesses for any wires that may be frayed, corroded or chewed on by critters (they love low mileage cars that are rarely driven).

11-12.5 ohms is about right for the injectors.

Try connecting 1 injector at a time & see which one is blowing the fuse.
I TRIED THEM ONE @ A TIME, EACH TIME IT BLEW THE FUSE. I DON'T SEE HOW ALL THE INJECTORS CAN BE BAD BECAUSE IT RUNS SO GOOD WHEN IT STARTS.

come on people, someone out there should know what my problem is. i have laid out all the problems, i just can't see paying someone $70.00 per hour to look @ it and guess what's wrong with it. please help me, this car is like new, 42,000 original miles.

david

This is impossible to diagnose from this environemnt, a wiring diagram and a trace of all the related components in that circuit are required, there's no magic bullet here. Only onsite analysis will get the job done here.

Did you inspect the wiring harnesses like I suggested? I would almost bet that your problem is a mouse/critter chewed wire that is shorting out.

Did you inspect the wiring harnesses like I suggested? I would almost bet that your problem is a mouse/critter chewed wire that is shorting out.
THANKS FOR THE REPL , AND YES I DID CHECK THE HARNESS ALL WAY TO INJECTORS. I HAD TO REMOVE UPPER INTAKE TO GET TO WIRING AND FOUND NO SIGN OF CRITTER DAMAGE. THIS PINK/BLACK TRACER WIRE ALSO GOES TO ICM & COIL PACK. I READ IN AN EARLIER THREAD THAT SOMEONE ELSE FOUND THEIR ICM WAS NOT GROUNDED AFTER THEY REMOVED IT, THEY FOUND RUST ON THE MOUNTING PLATE. WHAT DO YOU THINK??

So the ICM is on the same circuit?
It certainly won't hurt to remove the ICM & clean all the mounting surfaces. Apply a little dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion. While you have the module & coils off check the resistance of the primary & secondary windings of all the coils. Post all six readings for us. It's possible that you have a short in the coils that's drawing close to 10 amps & when a good injector fires it causes the fuse to blow.

So the ICM is on the same circuit?
It certainly won't hurt to remove the ICM & clean all the mounting surfaces. Apply a little dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion. While you have the module & coils off check the resistance of the primary & secondary windings of all the coils. Post all six readings for us. It's possible that you have a short in the coils that's drawing close to 10 amps & when a good injector fires it causes the fuse to blow. THANKS MICKEY. IT WILL PROBABLY BE A COUPLE OF DAYS BEFORE I GET IT OFF. I HAVE AN OHM METER, WHAT SETTING SHOULD I USE TO CHECK RESISTANVE??DO YOU ALSO KNOW IF THE ICM CAN BE BENCH TESTED?
THANKS, DAVID

JUSTIMAGINATION,

Please use proper forum etiquette and do not use caps at all times. This is considered yelling.

Use a good DMM type meter not analog in the ohms position and autoranging. The resistance between the primary terminals on the underside of the coil should be around 0.50-0.90 ohms. The resistance between the secondary terminals should be 5,000-10,000 ohms.

You should be able to get the ICM module bench tested at places like Autozone for free. Make sure they do repetitive testing on it.

JUSTIMAGINATION,

Please use proper forum etiquette and do not use caps at all times. This is considered yelling.

Use a good DMM type meter not analog in the ohms position and autoranging. The resistance between the primary terminals on the underside of the coil should be around 0.50-0.90 ohms. The resistance between the secondary terminals should be 5,000-10,000 ohms.

You should be able to get the ICM module bench tested at places like Autozone for free. Make sure they do repetitive testing on it.Thanks for the info, and yes for you I will use regular letters and not caps for you. When you age a little and have an eye condition such as I do, you will do whatever possible that helps you read better. Again, thanks for info....