2001 lincoln LS V8 Code # 1299

If you send me a private message with an e-mail address that can accept PDF files, I can send you the little cheat sheet I put together when I was troubleshooting my wife's temp issues.

-Rod

this is my email [email protected] i am having simular problems and you seem to be the man with the right plans pleeeeeease help

the V8 uses a seperate electric coolant pump to circulate into the cabin - so... make sure to check out the fuses and then also check that pump.

if you PM me your e-mail address I'll send you a cooling system diagram and you can start from there.

can you send me one too please [email protected] cooling system diagrahm
-eric

The cheat sheet and bleed procedure should be in your inbox.

-Rod

Hello Rod, i have been reading ur forums and it sounds like you can help me.
I have a 00 Ls, my problem is tat i am gettin no heat. i have bled the system 3 times and looks like i got all the air out but i still have no heat. I located the heater core hoses and none of them are hot at all im thinkin its the control valve tats stuck closed but im hesitant to juss buy without really bein sure.

i would appreciate if u can guide me in wat to do Thank you

Welcome to the forum! But, I need to correct you, they're not my forums. ;)

It sounds like you've narrowed your problem to the DCCV pretty well already, but you could also check for voltage (actually lack of) to the valve. Fortunately, the valve is supposed to be full open and allow 100% coolant flow when there is zero voltage to the valve. This means you can check for coolant flow by unplugging the valve (one connector for the DCCV is located towards the top passenger side (US models) of the radiator. If you unplug the DCCV and the inlet hoses to the DCCV are hot but the hoses from the DCCV to the heater cores are still cool, then the DCCV would appear to be stuck closed.

-Rod

Hi Folks,

I'm new to this forum and I hope someone can help here. I made the biggest mistake of my life (or at least my cars life). I decided to fix an "annoyance" with my 2000 Lincoln LS (3.9L V8).

It seemed to have a thermostat that was stuck open. It took a long time for the enigine to heat up and it never did reach the half way mark (even in the hot summer months). And it took a long time to get heat in the cabin (like 15 minutes or so) but it all worked. As I replaced my thermostat I found the original was actually broken in two pieces so I was pumped that my diagnoses was on the money. I replaced the thermostat and fired up the car. The car heated up quickly, then proceeded to overheat and now I have NO HEAT in the cabin. I tried the following but still get the same reasults (an engine that over heats and no cabin heat)

1. Purchased a 2nd thermostat and replaced it just in case I had a defective unit.
2. Flipped the thermostat around in the unlikely event that I originally installed it backwards.
3. Installed the origianal (broken) thermostat (in order to maintain the seal).

What disturbed me most is step 3 where I know the thermostat is always wide open and it still overheats within minutes. So what started out to be a simple fix to an annoying problem has rendered my car undrivable. I wished I never touched it. Any suggestions/assistance would be greatly appreciated.
:banghead:

1 more question can someone tell me specifically where the "engine air bleed & the heater air bleed are located?

For what it's worth I ordered a chilton manual for my 2000 LS at the link below. I had a hard time finding it through any of the local parts stores. So if anyone's interested here it is
http://www.alibris.com/booksearch?binding=&mtype=&keyword=9780801993145&hs.x=7&hs.y=13
They sell both new and used Manuals. You can get it really cheap.

thanks Rod i will try tat. if it doesnt open ill remove it? is there any kind of bench test i could perform to valve

Did you check for voltage to the valve while it's installed on the car? If you verify there is no voltage to it, yet the inlet hoses to it are hot and the outlet hoses are cool, that's about as good a "bench" test as you can do.

You could remove the DCCV, apply water to the inlet side and see if it flows out but that seems like a good way to make a mess. Plus, given the history of these DCCVs, I think once you go to the work of removing the valve you'll decide it's not worth putting a used one back on, especially if you plan to keep the car for awhile.

-Rod

hey Rod, i unplugged the dccv and wat happen was that the heater core lines got warm and the heater started to blow a lil warmer air. but it was more warmer on the passenger side than the driver side. does this mean that the control valve is good?

thanks

Rod,
This is what is happening now the dccv is plugged in again the heater is blowing warmer air now but still it is much warmer on the passenger side.

another is that if i put the datc in auto at 90 it will start blowing cold air out of the floor vents if i put back in the manual mode it will go back to warm.

this is a tricky one if i have in manual mode set at 90 and i select the defrost it will go cold again then i put back to the front vents and it goes warm again

I then ran the DATC self diagnostics test and it gave me a code 1342 i looked up on all data. com and the description was defective ecu and it says to install a new datc.

Another is tat wen it is at idle there is not much heat but wen i rev it up it will warm up

I am gettin pretty confused Rod i dont know which direction to take

Yeah, there's not much information for a DATC code 1342 other than to replace the defective DATC ECU. I've fortunately never encountered that before. I think I'd try pulling the fuse for half an hour or so for the DATC, plugging the fuse back in and trying the DATC again.

-Rod

hey i work at a ford dealership and if you send me enough info like vin # or make model and engine size i can find the info you need. is there any other codes present or are you able to scan for codes. this sounds like the eatc control head to me (heater controls) but i could get you a pinpoint test for this with a little more info

But now there is no heat again can it be the evaparator discharge temp. sensor also? Can it be reading a high temp? Where do i locate the fuse to the DATC?

It would be 10-amp fuses F2.14 and F2.20 in the Central Junction Box.

-Rod

hey shorod im back again. i replaced the datc but it still didnt fix the problem. I order the evap discharge temp sensor i should have it by tomorrow. Do you think that should fix my problem?

Wow, that's a bummer. Well, you won't be out much (relatively speaking) to replace the Evap discharge temp sensor at this point. Did the diagnostic code for the DATC unit go away at least? If so, the new DATC must have fixed something.

-Rod

there are no codes on the datc no more. i purchased the wrong part i got the blender door actuator instead of the discharge sensor so now i have to wait until monday. i removed the driver side discharge sensor and put it in place of the evap sensor to see if there was a change but there wasnt. so now im going back to thinkin that it might be the control valve. it would be a big coincident if both those sensors are bad.

hey there Rod, i got around to replacing that discharge sensor but it still didnt fix the problem still nothin but cold air. i also pulled the dccv out (not an easy job) i didnt see any physical signs of it bein stuck i cleaned it up and put it back in but still nothin. my new question is does the in-cabin temperture sensor located above the ignition have anything to do with the heater functioning properly? thanks

That sensor is the driver's side cabin temp sensor. I don't think it would cause cold air out of both sides.

Did you take the DCCV apart and inspect the physical valve solenoids for signs of binding? When I took my wife's old one apart I could see where the one valve had been rubbing and eventually stuck. I didn't try cleaning it and putting it back on or bench testing it, I just replaced it.

-Rod

yes i did rod the plastic didnt have any physical damage to it could it be tat the electronic part of the valve went bad

Hey Rod wat is the purpose of the auxilary water pump

It is possible that the solenoid windings could be bad, or the valve(s) physically stuck. You could bench test the valve if you wanted to take it off again. With no voltage, it should allow coolant to flow. With battery voltage to both valves, there should be no flow.

The purpose of the aux water pump is to provide additional heater coolant flow as well as to provide engine-off cooling.

-Rod

yeah the first time i disconnected the connector on fan shroud those valves opened and the heater hoses got very hot. but now everytime i try that they dont warm up at all. Would tat mean tat that control valve is bad Rod? Thanks again

Hey there Rod i finally replaced the dccv and i got heat now. but in idle it wont give me much heat i bled the system already. Could it be the Aux. Water Pump or do i just need to bleed it some More?

That's a tough one. If it were me, I'd start by bleeding the cooling system again and driving it for a day or two. That's mostly because bleeding the system is inexpensive and could cause the symptoms. Also, I've not read of the aux coolant pump failing. That being said, I had not read of an evaporator air discharge temp sensor failing before either and that's what it took to get the HVAC working properly in my wife's LS....

-Rod

i ran the check, no codes. i am currently bleeding the system for the 3rd time, i get no heat at all regardless of what i do, i can't get a steady stream from the heater valve eather, please help me. I read the forum but noda...

P.S. It is a 3.0l V6

i ran the check, no codes. i am currently bleeding the system for the 3rd time, i get no heat at all regardless of what i do, i can't get a steady stream from the heater valve eather, please help me. I read the forum but noda...

P.S. It is a 3.0l V6

Welcome to the forum!

Could you elaborate more? Was there some service performed just prior to the heat not working and caused you to bleed the system? Did the self test go through the proper steps, there just were no codes to be displayed? What do you mean by not getting a steady stream of coolant from the heater valve (DCCV?)? Are you disconnecting hoses? Have you tried checking the voltage to the DCCV?

-Rod

I traded my old 02 IS300 (totaled)for this LS. I knew when i bought it, it had been overheated once.

I brought the car home and filled the coolant to the proper levels. no leaks after a few days so I started driving it. I noticed there was no heat coming from the heater, all the air i could want, just no heat to it. I read up on it (mostly through this forum) and figured i could tackle it today.

Symptoms: Blower works great, AC blows Cold, Heater isn't functioning.

I ran the test on the Climate Control Unit and came up all 8's and everything lit so no codes.
I Removed the front bleeder (on hose in front of engine), and the one by the filler (assume for the heater...remember i am looking at no schematics or at least a picture with red circles showing whats what), removed the filler cap and filled it up. capped off the engine bleeder when fluid came out (front one) and started the car with the CC at 90, sat and waited for the top bleeder to give me a "steady stream" but i never got it, i waited over an hour. the best i got was something like a heartbeat, every few seconds it would spurt a little out of the hole. Heater still blew cold air. I tried disconnecting the power to the DCCV and seeing if that made any difference, didn't seem to do anything. I read somewhere else that if the DCCV is stuck you can play with the climate control (turn it up and down) and maybe get a temporary fix (or diagnosis), I tried and it felt like the passanger side blew some warmer air on 90 with the fan's lowest setting. but it could be a plecebo. you seem to be REALLY good at this perticular problem so i thought i would ask instead of being a forum ninja that hears all but you never know is there. I don't really know which bleeder is which, i think i do but i could be wrong. I also tore my center console apart looking for the sensors and i can't find anything. not too sure where they are either. the messed up thing is there is NO HEAT, you guys could get heat on HIGH or any setting except low, but mines not there at all. I don't want to go drop 160-195 on a DCCV if i am not SURE that is the problem. any help would be appreciated.

If you guys help me get mine going i wouldn't mind posting a DIY with photos for bleeding and testing (removing and replacing) the DCCV.

FOLLOW UP

with the heat on FULL BLAST i get COLD air. with the heater on fan's lowest i defiantly get warm air, maybe 10 degrees warmer, but only on the passenger side. still stumped but feel a glimmer of hope that that is key in someone (cough*ROD*cough) diagnosing the symptoms.

It sounds like the bleed procedure is pretty close to accurate. I think I've posted the steps on here, but maybe I only sent an e-mail with the steps (since it does include photos). That is odd though that you don't get the steady flow of coolant. When you had the car running for an hour with the car running you had no signs of engine overheating? The water pump and thermostat must be working in that case....

The next quick test would be to feel the DCCV inlet and outlet hoses to determine if they are getting hot. If the inlet is hot and neither of the outlets are hot, even with the DCCV electrical connector unplugged, that would be a pretty good sign the DCCV is a problem. Psuguy131 recently posted how to identify which hose is what (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=937714).

As far as the sensors, you can access those from the driver's and passenger's footwells. You need to remove a few trim and/or duct pieces to comfortable get to them. I'm not sure if you can even see them with the center console trim removed.

-Rod

I woke up frustrated today determined to find the cause, i blead the system 3 times and the heat got warmer, even on high, driver side still colder than passanger. I am doing this with the DCCV Disconneted...is that going to cause me a problem? but it is good enough for now (if im not toasting something leaving the dccv always open)

P.S. Still not hot

I don't expect you'd damage anything by leaving the DCCV disconnected. It probably will trigger a code in the DATC system though.

-Rod

I don't expect you'd damage anything by leaving the DCCV disconnected. It probably will trigger a code in the DATC system though.

-Rod

The funny thing is there isn't a code in the DATC...seems to work to a degree.

I'm not getting a 1299, but this thread seems to be about heater issues so...

2002 Lincoln LS V8. The drivers side air outlets are discharging air at the proper temp but the passenger side seems to be full hot. My wife is also getting a little hot about the whole situation. Once in a while the problem goes away, but it always comes back. :frown:

Also, last summer, the AC would go full hot on occasion but replacing the DCCV had appeared to solve that problem. Now I'm wondering if they aren't manifestations of the same problem.

I have replaced the DCCV, the DATC, purged the AC and re-charged, and then replaced the passenger side temperature sensor. According to what I read in the shop manual, that is everything that could cause the problem.

Does anyone have any ideas of where to go next? The frustration level is getting pretty high.

What does a DCCV look like.

Off the vehicle it looks like this:
http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff342/raschmidt/Automotive/DCCV.jpg

-Rod

How can you look up all these codes i have a 2002 lincoln ls v8

See post number 3 here for instructions on pulling the DATC codes (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=593096).

-Rod